intermitant electrical shutdown please help!!!

I've had my '83 Maxim for a couple years now, I have overhauled the whole bike and it was running superbly. One day last summer out on a ride I was cruising at about 80km when suddenly complete shutdown. then after about 2 seconds it came back on again. I stopped and it did it a few more times then once more and the bike shut off completely. I started it and it died a few more times then it sort of want away. I rode it a few more kms then stopped for lunch then it wouldnt start at all.

I got my truck and took it home as far as I can tell everything checks out. It wont start now and seems like it wants to try to but wont.

I talked to a mechanic at a small bike shop and he said that there is a relay in the system that usually fails. I have now moved. I tried the yamaha dealer but they as always were no help.

My bike is in storage for the winter I am just trying to get ideas before I get it and start looking into it a bit more.

 

I could be lots of things, but I would start with the fuses.

 

When it dies, the the starter engage or do you get absolutely no reaction from the bike at all when pushing the starter button?

I'm having a problem where the bike dies, and the starter fails to engage and it turned out to be my "kill" switch. The switch is old, and the temperature is so cold now (10F this morning) that apparently the contacts are pulling back. If I push down hard on the run/kill switch, then the starter will engage and the bike will run.

Basically, you should take a volt meter and follow the flow of power until it stops. It will stop at a faulty switch, a cable plug, or a fuse.

 

The only relay that could cut out the ignition when the bike is running is the sidestand relay. If this, or its switch, were making false contact, the bike would stop running, but this wouldn't cause evertything to go dead - i.e. you'd still have headlight, lights on the gauges, and such.

If you're losing all electrical power, the problem is not a relay. It's going to be either the main fuse, the fuse box (likely), or something like the ignition switch itself.

As Sushi said, you'll need a meter so you can start tracing out the power flow. You'll also need the wiring diagram so you have a better idea of where to look.

 

I'm betting on the fuse panel!

 

Check your ground cable at the battery and the block for lose conections.

 

If the lights stay on when it dies, then the TCI module could be at fault.

 

There is a sudden total loss of electrical power. so I'm guessing its not the tdi module or a fuse. It maybe a loose connection at the battery or block.

When I overhauled the bike I took apart all the switches and made sure they were all good, I was having issues with the starter button when I first bought it.

Maybe it is just something stupid and I overlooked the simple stuff.

My bike is in Salmon Arm right now and I dont know when I'll have time to go get it. Hopefully in a few weeks. I just want to make sure its good to go the fist sign of bare roads. There is about a foot and a half of snow here :S

 

So I got my bike up here and got it to the Yamaha shop.

After about a week they found a rouge relay that is for the shutdowns on the bike. This relay wasn't letting the bike start with the kickstand down. So with that unplugged it runs fine. Although the mechanic couldn't find my problem with the intermittent elec. After talking with him over the phone I remembered that when I overhauled my bike I found that the little fiberglass electrical panel in the ignition where all the wires connect to was cracked. The mechanic looked at it for me and he said it was broken and that it probably was my problem.

So I found a package of three relays for the maxim and a new ignition for a total of about $60 with shipping

Now I just cant wait till the snow melts...

 

I've seen broken switch boards once or twice, it isn't really common but not impossible either. Typically, this occurs when someone tries to use a screwdriver on the ignition. All power is routed through that switch to the fuse panel so very it is very likely you found your problem.

 

Had a very similar problem last spring. I took the advice on this site and replaced the entire fuse box with a new one that uses the spade type fuses. Have had NO problems since.

 

Update

I got the parts I ordered and put them in and my problem went away for a wile. But now its back and my bike wont even start. It almost starts on 2 cylinders.
I have checked, cleaned, and in some cases replaced parts in the ignition system. The only thing I havent checked is my Ignitor box.
Does anyone know if there is any way to test the unit?
Does anyone have one that they can Give/Lend/Sell to me so I can figure this out once and for all?

 

does this only happen when the bike is warmed and running for a while?

 

any time cold warm hot w/e it doesnt matter

 

If you still have the old style fuse box, I put my money on the Main Fuse.

If you still have the old style fuse box, try swapping it out for a modern blade fuse system. I did it with 4 inline mini blade fuse holders, cost me $20, and took less than 90mins.

 

so, it still loses electrical or just runs rough?
sounds like you have a grounding issue or even a charging issue. have you tested your voltage/amperage at the battery while it is off and while it is running?
what about checking resistance from your ground on the motor to the battery? maybe the ground cable is faulty from age.

 

Had this exact same problem, riding along and dies, tach goes to zero. Found a broken wire at the coil connector, would touch, then open circuit depending on the attitude of the bike. Happened to me twice on the same corner at the bottom of my street.