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Carbs off 6 times

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Nighthawk, May 12, 2009.

  1. Nighthawk

    Nighthawk Member

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    Well 6 times they have come off so far. Getting real good at pulling and installing. My throttle is hanging when I blip it. This is what i did so far
    Complete cleaning
    Replaced rear boots
    Replaced needle seats
    Replaced main and pilot jets same size
    replaced 2 each jet needles
    bench synced with 3/8 inch pice 3x5 just snug
    replaced plugs
    tore down clean petcock
    replaced throttle shaft seals and fuel tube seals
    Synched carbs with Carbtune II, within 1/8 inch maybe a bit more.
    Used propane to check for leaks none
    Checked throttle cable binding, lubed and repositioned no change
    It has been most likely 10-12000 miles since valve adjustment.

    Engine gets real hot with the high idle. Most likley around 3000-4000k hang idle
    Adjusted floats to 17mm, float fuel level approx 3-4 below lip

    Any sugestions would be apprecieated.
    Keith
     
  2. MN-Maxims

    MN-Maxims St. Paul Minnesota

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    Can you or did you push down on the throttle linkage to get the idle back down or how did you get the bike to idle after it reved up like that?
     
  3. Thee_oddball

    Thee_oddball Member

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    do a "clunk" test on the slides just tobe sure
     
  4. ActionJackson4205

    ActionJackson4205 New Member

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    I noticed on mine if the idle screw is up just a bit too high it will hang like that and not idle back down. I would turn the idle down a bit and it took car of the problem.
     
  5. SLKid

    SLKid Active Member

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    Yeah, Idle adjustment screw in the middle of the carbs. Take a 10 min ride and then turn that large screw ccw till it pops down to 1000-1100
     
  6. TIMEtoRIDE

    TIMEtoRIDE Active Member

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    Did you check and/or adjust your valves before all that work?
    How did you set your pilots? what color are your plugs?
     
  7. MN-Maxims

    MN-Maxims St. Paul Minnesota

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    Check for vacuum leaks, that also could make the idle act weird.

    MN
     
  8. Nighthawk

    Nighthawk Member

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    Answers"
    I checked for leaks with propane no increase in idle, when idle is normal
    I did not mess with mixture screws yet
    As for idle screw I will check where it is sitting, I didnt think you could adjust where it sits on the flange. The screw is hard mounted to the bar
    Did a clunk test and they drop down with no hang
    How do I get idle down. I either blip the throttle or when riding up and down the street leave off throtle and it slowly went back down.
    Not sure what is meant by setting my pilots?

    Thanks for the responses the only thing from your responses I need to check is the idle screw and the color of my plugs. with the idle hanging I am afraid to take it to far. Plus law wont like it without tags. I need to take it to DMV for inspection since it is a out of state vehicle to get my tags here in ohio.
     
  9. TheHound

    TheHound Active Member

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    MIxture screws.
     
  10. mcrwt644

    mcrwt644 Member

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    Idle adjustment will be between no's 2 and 3 carb. Looks like a, well, adjustment knob. Clockwise will bring the idle up, counterclockwise, down. I'd try that first. If it doesn't work, I'd look into pulling the plugs to see what color they are. I had an issue with my maxim x, where I was running waaaay lean even though the bike sat at 2.5 on the mixture screws (which are little brass straight slot screws immediately behind the intake boots ON the carbs). After I pulled the plugs (oh yeah, good and white) I adjusted the mixture screws several times, and had none of the issues you are describing again.
     
  11. TIMEtoRIDE

    TIMEtoRIDE Active Member

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    You did a "complete cleaning" without removing the Pilot needles?
    Assuming you haven't touched them, you screw them IN first, counting the turns, and fraction of a turn, before removing them. There's "O" rings, springs and tiny washers in there. Then blast carb cleaner thru.

    Did you read "the church of the clean" or "whole nine yards" ??

    You removed your butterflies from the shafts to do the seals.
    If the butterflies are not re-installed and seated exactly right this could cause a hanging idle, an air leak you can't find with propane.

    Compare the color of your plugs to those in some "plug read" threads.
     
  12. Nighthawk

    Nighthawk Member

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    Timeto Ride,
    I am not sure what you are talking about when you say Pilot needles. Are you meaning mixture screws? If so I did not touch the mixture screws. They have not been moved. I did go out this afternoon and check one and it is 2 1/2 turns out from bottom.

    Let me ask you this, you mentioned about putting the butterflies back in correct. Yes I marked them and put them in the way they came out. doing my bench sync I verified that they closed all the way that is after I flipped one upside down when it would not close before I instaled 3x5 card piece to open them evenly.

    Other then that I am still at idle sticking. To all who responded thanks..
     
  13. whaler

    whaler New Member

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    You should verify all the things you have already done, but I will list below a "general rule of thumb" to help you in the right direction. Assuming the carburetors are stock (no jet kit), then it has to be something with the rebuild.

    Typical Lean Conditions:

    - Poor acceleration; the engine feels flat.

    - The engine won't respond when the throttle is snapped open, but it picks up speed as the throttle is closed. (A too-large main jet also mimics this symptom.)

    - The engine runs hot, knocks, pings and overheats.

    - The engine surges or hunts when cruising at part-throttle.

    - Popping or spitting through the carb occurs when the throttle is opened. Or popping and spitting occurs through the pipe on deceleration with a closed throttle.

    - The engine runs better in warm weather, worse in cool.

    - Performance gets worse when the air filter is removed.


    Typical Rich Conditions

    - Engine acceleration is flat and uneven and loses that "crisp" feel.

    - The engine "eight-strokes" as it loads up and skips combustion cycles.

    - The engine's idle is rough or lumpy, and the engine won't return to idle without "blipping" the throttle.

    - The throttle needs to be open continuously to maintain acceleration.

    - Black, sooty plugs, a sooty exhaust pipe and black smoke from the tailpipe that stinks of unburned fuel.

    - Poor fuel economy.

    - The engine works better when cold. Performance falls off as it warms up or the ambient temperature rises.

    - Engine performance improves when the air cleaner is removed.

    The list above is a list from Mark Zimmerman
     
    wgul likes this.
  14. Nighthawk

    Nighthawk Member

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    Whaler, Thanks for response. Sitting here thinking I replaced the shaft seals all except? On the #1 and 4 carbs outside with C clips there are plastic washers with a lip which goes into the carbs. There was no oring on either 1 or 4 under the plastic washer and c clip. I tried to put oring in there but it would not fit. Should there be orings under this plastic washer fit into the carbs?
     
  15. TIMEtoRIDE

    TIMEtoRIDE Active Member

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    OK Nighthawk, you will get accurate info from the guys here once you:
    1-- Post up your compression test results.
    2-- Post up your valve clearances.
    3-- Post up your plug pics, or describe them.
    4-- List every non-stock modificaion.
    5-- list everything you tweaked.

    And yes, I have a V-Star 1100, aren't they cool? absolutely no problems !!
    Bear with us, as we suffer from ADD !!
     
  16. Nighthawk

    Nighthawk Member

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    Time to Ride, I will get the info you posted. Never did a valve adjustment or check. I can tear down a jet engine and put it back togeather but can't figure out how a little motorcycle engine is kicking my butt.

    As for the Vstar I love the thing, did about everything I can without tearing into the engine. If it wasnt for this seca being my first ever bike it would have been gone a long time ago. Plus the wife is going nuts with what I spent to put it bac on the road.
     
  17. mrcarb

    mrcarb Member

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    Well you got me beat Nighthawk, I only had mine off 4 times
     
  18. whaler

    whaler New Member

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    Just a thought...

    Have you verified all of your choke plungers are fully seated when the choke is off?
     
  19. Thee_oddball

    Thee_oddball Member

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    is there a spring for every butterfly? I am thinking one has slipped out of position and not providing the required tension letting air by causing the idle up
     
  20. SLKid

    SLKid Active Member

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    Hey Whaler that list is awesome. You should have your own post that we can add to favorites that have that Lean/Rich Post along with way to resolve those issues. That'd be a sweet handy referance and all that info would be in one place
    -SLkid
     
  21. whaler

    whaler New Member

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    That would be fine with me, but I am not sure where it would be put...maybe there is already a carburetor/tuning thread the list could be added to?

    Maybe one of the moderators would like to copy and paste the data to the appropriate thread/sticky?
     
  22. Nighthawk

    Nighthawk Member

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    Whaler,
    Compression check completed.
    #1 135
    #2 130
    #3 140
    #4 132

    I adjusted the mixture screws out to 3 and then into 2 3/4 turns then took it down the road and back Idle seems to not be hanging as much,So I dont know what may have helped me out with the hanging throttle, messing with idle screw a little at a time or the mixture screws. I'm not counting it as completed yet. will try it again later after the engine cools off. I do need to check valves, it's been about 15 years and 10k.

    Oh by the way I found some oul seeping out front left hand corner of engine looks like head gasket. Yuck, might not be a job for me.
     
  23. SLKid

    SLKid Active Member

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    Gaskets are easy dude. If you're gonna check the valves you might as well put on a new gasket. Gotta pop that open to look at the valves anyway. Sounds like a good excuse to do it to me!
    I've thought about taking my bike to a shop a hundred times and "let someone else do it"
    I'm much happier and way prouder (and got more $$ in the pocket) by doing it myself.
    Its not as hard as you think sometimes :D
    Oh, and NightHawk?
    You have to call me Dragon
    :D
    -SLKid
     
  24. Nighthawk

    Nighthawk Member

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    SLKID,

    Have no problem calling you dragon as long as I don't have to call you dragon slayer like that guy on the TV show Survivor.
     
  25. iandmac

    iandmac Member

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    This question about springs made me think of something I found on my 750 Hitachis. On carb No.2 the butterfly spring was slipping out from under the tang on the fitting at the end of the shaft. It had worn a little flat spot there where it had been getting stuck now and again, holding the idle up. This caused a fair amount of friction on No.2 butterfly operation which you can only feel when the carbs are split and each can be twiddled individually. It had only happened on No.2, the rest were fine.

    Next time you have them off check the springs against the photos below, particularly on No.2 where it seems the tang on the fitting isn't quite long enough to do the job. Anyone else ever seen this?
     

    Attached Files:

  26. iandmac

    iandmac Member

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    Any takers on the spring hangup issue? I'm curious to know if this is a common problem ...
     
  27. altlandf

    altlandf Member

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    All the stuff that Nighthawk put into the carbs and he still has problems!! I just want to know how these bikes passed the EPA tests before production. YICS is Yikes PERIOD!!! These bikes defy all logic. You can have everything you need for an engine to run and this bike won't. I think it's a lean fuel mixture because of YICS. I had a 1983 Honda Prelude. Always idled at 3000 rpm. No matter what I did. It wouldn't idle like it should. I wonder how they could get away with emissions claims. A really rich mixture igniting an lean mixture doesn't work. I has been proven.
     
  28. Xjrider92117

    Xjrider92117 Active Member

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    Shouldn't you be on a Easter egg hunt or something altland.
     
  29. OldBikerDude

    OldBikerDude Member

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    If you didn't do a valve check before you did the carbs then you are waisting all of our time.....
    This needs to be done first. Then sync , then color tune.
    Do it right the first time and there wouldn't be a second!
    Altlandf - if you don't like these bikes then you shouldn't own one.
    ANY 30 plus year old bike would need work!
    If things are done correctly then you will have a bike that out runs everything else out there. I would put my little 550 up against any test you had for a bike!
     
  30. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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  31. altlandf

    altlandf Member

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    This poor guy had these carbs off 6 times. Just how much did he pay for all the parts and it STILL won't run right? This is bullshit plain and simple. If you spend $1000 for all the parts in the carb and it still doesn't run right you should be allowed to go after the crooks at Yamaha and hitachi. People have to know about these pieces of junk. They need to be warned. How many really old motorcycles have I seen on this show they do very little work on them and they fire up. I can't believe someone actually said Chevy engines were junk and these worthless Yamaha engines were high performance. Like hell they are JUNK JUNK JUNK.
     
  32. SLKid

    SLKid Active Member

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    Ouch bro
     
  33. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Our more worldly members wil understand this reply. altlandf will not, even after having it explaned to him slowly.

    U R A
    [​IMG]
     
  34. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Think of these carb systems as a mechanical aptitude IQ test....those that can, do, and those that can't pass the test, well.................
     
  35. ColoradoDan

    ColoradoDan Active Member

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    altlandf... LMFAO

    You remind me of the old dudes on the muppet show. Complete a-holes, but it isn't a show without them.

    Now, how much is HD paying you?
     
  36. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    BTW k-moe, very nice picture, good composition and framing. Is that your petcock or is he a broiler?
     
  37. z32800

    z32800 Member

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    K-moe; over here in NZ we call it a Rooster, but it can also be known as a c#ck; both are fitting. :p
     
  38. adrian1

    adrian1 Active Member

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    Indeed a very fine specimen....of approximately the same IQ as our friend too!
     
  39. ecologito

    ecologito Well-Known Member

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    Why offend the smart bird?
     
  40. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    All this over a 3+-year-old forum post?!!?

    Dave
     
  41. tskaz

    tskaz Active Member

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    I was wondering the same thing, Dave.

    I'm also wondering how many more posts are going to see action because control-alt-delete or whatever his name is wants to keep b1tch1ng about his bike instead of learning how to fix it properly.
     
  42. moellear

    moellear Member

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    +1 on Dave and tskaz's response. It'd be nice if everyone on this forum knew who to ignore and who to actually listen to for advice rather than complaining and bickering. Obviously we've all had frustrations but what good does it do by typing it online as well?

    Nothing, period
     
  43. Joshua Bastion

    Joshua Bastion New Member

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    Another Kiwi here... And wow.... just wow.... The chevvy king has been about as useful as a cock flavoured lollipop...

    I've been having the rev hang issue after a blip... 1AM here and I just put her all back together and HANGING out to kick her in the guts but 750E-II with a 4 into 1 Exhaust is a littttttle bit too thumpy for a monday witching hour...

    ANYWAY, What I have found is the 4th carb mixer screws spring was soft as and dirty as foook because..... Previous owner of these carbs had put the rubber and steel washer in the wrong order!!! No seal and rubber was deformed and rock solid...

    This correlates with the header temperature readings ive gotten as well.. uniformed temp 1st 3 pipes and the 4th still heating but substantially lower... like 50 deg C + and constantly fluctuating...

    (bought 2 750 e ii's for less then $1200 and both with decent motors but a good few electrical and carb issues... But shit these things even go hard as f***... Well, one of them does anyway :p ;P even running on 2.5 cylinders! Like way better then factory stats had me thinking! I didnt even realise i had no fuel to one cylinder at ALLLL! had a feeling i was missing maybe half a cyl but not 1.5!?!?!?!)

    P.S: You guys have all been absolute legends by the way... If you even see this the thread is so damn old lol
     

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