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Thinkg about buying a 1982 yamaha maxim 750

Discussion in 'Hangout Lounge' started by mrbup, May 15, 2009.

  1. mrbup

    mrbup New Member

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    Hey guys...i am new here but I wanted to ask if it would be a good idea to buy a 1982 yamaha maxim 750 with 30,000 miles on it for 800.00 USD. This would be my very first bike and I like the look of it, but I'm not sure if I getting hosed on the deal. THe bike has a new battery and tires, and it just past inspection.

    Any thoughts would be apprecited.
    thanks
     
  2. sleazie

    sleazie New Member

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    it already runs? i'd say thats a pretty sweet deal.
     
  3. mrbup

    mrbup New Member

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    anyone else think its a good deal, or have any buyer beware type info on this model type?
     
  4. dmschuler

    dmschuler Member

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    Well, I just bought a 1982 maxim 550 for $250 not too long ago. I passed the $800 mark within the first few weeks on parts and paint. When I'm done I'll have spent much more than the initial purchase. For me, it's more about the rebuild than the money, so I don't mind...

    If I had the chance to pick up a running 750 with a current inspection I wouldn't hesitate!
     
  5. JoeFriday77

    JoeFriday77 Member

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    It sounds like a good deal. Here are some things to check.

    Compression - Rent if you have to and run a compression test. That will tell you if the valves need adjusting or of the rings are leaking. If you get a low reading, drop some oil in the cylinder and recheck. I don't know the exact spec for the model, but you should be at 150+ I think.

    Transmission - Run it through all of the gears and make sure to put them under some type of load. It's not completely uncommon to run across one that will pop out of second gear.

    Electronics - Make sure that everything works. Pop off the seat and look at the fuse box (I think that is where it is located on that one). Just take note of the general wiring condition.

    Crankcase - Open the fill hole and smell. If it smells like gas, then the carb floats could have stuck or be sticking and dumping fuel into the crankcase. Not a deal breaker, but you don't want to ride it 100 miles home. The oil needs to be changed asap.

    Tires - Check the date stamped on the side of the tires. Regardless of tread life, if they are old they will need to be replaced.

    Brakes - Check the brakes and how they are working. Regardless, you are going to at least have to pull off the rear wheel and verify the brake pads are OK. With age, they can delaminate.

    It's not that any of these are necessarily deal breakers. They are just negotiation points and for you to be informed of what you are getting in to. Compression and transmission are the biggies since that could be the most work.
     
  6. tomandjerry00

    tomandjerry00 Member

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    I got mine with a ton of rust, but perfectly running for $700 with title and 14k miles. Price isn't too bad, I've got some body work to do on mine.... If its got a title and looks half decent, go for it. Its fun to burn a porsche off the line :)
     
  7. cly_adams

    cly_adams Member

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    BUY IT!!!! best bike iv ever had :cry:
     
  8. mrbup

    mrbup New Member

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    thanks for all the advise guys. I set up an appointment with the seller to test drive and buy the bike.

    thanks again
     
  9. desertrat

    desertrat Member

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    I have never bought a vehicle, moto or other wise, for the asking price. Cash in hand is pretty powerful, I have also never recieved my asking price on any vehicle I've sold.

    First bike purchase must read
    http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html

    *I love my 82 750 Max*
     

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