The electrical saga continues! Misery loves company help

Still the XJ1100J It is not charging and the tac has no power from the reg.
But the bike can have low battery just start and then run fine with bright lights and everything seems fine. I only have 12v at Battery and no Tachometer power at the W/B wires.
Does this make sense to you?
Help :cry:

 

Are you checking the battery voltage when the bike is at idle or at 1800 - 2000 RPM's

The tach may be just a bad connection somewhere You'll have to check the connections from the tach all the way through the harness.

MN

 

Tach and charging have nothing to do with each other. Tach gets its signal from one of the coil drive wires (I think the grey one, but it really doesn't matter which it's connected to), charging is two wires for the alternator field coil, three wires for the alternator wye, and the regulator/rectifier module.

Does your headlight come on after the bike is started? If so, your alternator is at least charging enough to enable the headlight relay.

Is your battery actually getting run down?

 

I checked the battery before install and it was 12.2 I checked it installed it was 12.1 I started the bike a ran it at idle and at about 2k and at 4k and the needle did not move at all. 12.1 The battery came with the bike and may not be great but it should read 14 ish when running/ The blinkers will not blink until I start the bike. This tells me that some parts of the bike are getting some power from the alt and that is confusing me. Could one of the white wires from the alt have a bad connection and still allow power through the other two wires to run the electrical but not charge the battery?

 

Yes I have bright head light after starting. I am getting power from the alt but not a charge.....or so it seems. The tac on my xj hs four wires two too the volt reg and one ground with one too the alt white wire I think.

 

I replaced the brushes for alt as one was vary short but it did not help my tach any.

 

You Should check your brushes in the alternator. If they are down to the wear lines replace them. Also check the three wire connector and see if there are any burn't wires.

MN

 

Locate the Plastic Plug-In Connection where the Voltage Regulator plugs-into the Wiring Harness.

Unplug the Connection.
Examine the Connection very, very closely.
Look at the plactic surrounding the RED Wire.

If the Plastic is melted or looks to have been affected by high-heat >> L@@K at the RED Wire Connection Terminal.
The Terminal may not be "Seated" Correctly having Pulled-out when the Connector overheated.

If the Terminal is misplaced. Correct it fit.
If the terminal End will not stay "In Place" ... "Weld" it from slipping away from where it belongs to marry with the opposing terminal ... with 1/2 a Drop of Epoxy.

make sure the RED Terminals "Marry"
If they don't completely marry ... the resistance ruins the Regulator.

 

a dead or dying cell in the battery could cause this. not the tach issue, but the battery one. it can load down the electrical system and bring your 13.8VDC down to about 12VDC. Try running the bike and disconnecting the battery. Then read the voltage on the terminals that would normally connect to the battery. If it reads higher than when it does with the battery connected, you'll need a new battery.

 

That sounds like it may be it.....I will do that tomorrow as well as check the reg red wire.
I will let you guys know how I made out.
Thanks for your time.

PS I DID READ THAT IF I DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WHEN RUNNING IT COULD BURN OUT THE COMPUTER OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT. SHOULD I DO IT ANYWAY?

 

I believe that Yamaha cautions against doing such an action, lest you negate the internals of your TCI box thingy.................

 

i was unaware. it didn't seem to harm mine but i'd hate to suggest you do something if it could possibly harm something.

I do wonder though... How would it damage the TCI?

 

Yeah that's the thingy! I guess I wont find out that way. I do know that my battery is suspect and just knowing that could cause the problem helps. I will try to charge it with a charger and see if it takes it or not. Where can I get distilled water if I need it......can I make some? Just Thinking out loud.

 

Just buy some distilled water at the grocery store, it's cheap.

Just because a battery will hold a static charge does NOT mean that the battery is good. It's the reservice capacity of it when a load is put on it that matters. Batteries that have sulphated plates (or other problems) may very well hold a charge, but won't be able to provide enough amperage when needed.

You need a battery tester, preferrably a carbon-pile type (and someone who knows how to use it correctly).

A poor-man's test is to watch the voltage at the battery WHILE CRANKING (while the starter is operating). If it goes below 9.6V, consider the battery a criminal element, and dispose of properly.......

Of course, I do carry brand new 1100 batteries in stock.........

 

Thanks for the info and I will keep you in mind if I have to spend 130 bucks for a battery. I hope not......... lol

 

Sensitive electronics do not necessiraly appreciate the lack of a proper ground circuit, and the regulator will also output more voltage, which the same sensitive electronics (TCI and computer dash components, if so equipped) don't care much for, either..........

 

You can also take your battery down to Autozone and have them load test it.
You will know for sure then.
If you pay $130 for a battery I've got some wetland with a beautiful view to sell you.
:wink:

 

Thanks that's a great idea.......Yeah they are not cheap for this bike. I think the cheapest is about $95 that I have seen so far. Well if you know of any cheaper ones that will work well let me know.

 

I do have a lawn mower that takes the same battery size and terminals (no battery in it now) Advanced Auto sells a battery for it with 300 cranking amps. Would it work good for my bike? Aside from the censor which I don't have anyway.

 

Jam, I did a quick search and found XJ1100 batteries from between $55 and $130.
The average about $75
Damn, I guess they are a bit more then my 650, I paid $35 at Napa.
Here is aLINK that may help in your search.
It appears you want to pay more attention to amp/hour then the brand.
The bay has them for $40 shipped.

 

You want to pay attention to amp/hour not the physical size.
Well it has to fit in the box, you see what I mean.

 

The 1100 is a much larger battery than the 650...............!



BATTERIES:

Brand new OEM and replacement batteries will certainly solve those slow or no-start problems, but before you buy a battery............read on to determine whether you really need a battery, or whether your situation is due to some other cause.

Of course, if you determine that your battery is ready to take that trip to the great lead-acid Heaven in the sky......or, actually, to a recycling center, such as a local auto parts store........then we have a variety of choices for your specific bike.



How do I know if my battery is good?:

Is it your battery, or your charging system, or something in-between?

The best way to know for sure is to use a multimeter (voltmeter) attached directly to your battery positive and negative terminals, and observe the following:

1) with the engine and all electrical accessories off, the battery should read a minimum of 12.8 volts DC. If not, the battery is either not fully charged, or it is bad (it is incapable of holding a full charge). Charge the battery fully and check again; if the reading is less than 12.8 volts, the battery is bad and should be replaced.

NOTE: most manuals describe checking the specific gravity of each battery cell electrolyte (fluid) as the preferred method of checking the condition of the battery. This reading should be between 1.2650 - 1.280 per cell. If a fully charged battery cannot reach these levels in all cells, then that cell is bad and the battery should be replaced.


2) If the first test above passes, leave the multimeter hooked up to the battery terminals, and press the starter button. While the starter is engaged (but before the bike starts), the battery voltage should be 9.5 volts or greater. If not, then this signals either a bad battery, very dirty or weak electrical connections, or it could be a incredibly problematic starter motor (not likely; it's probably the battery!).


3) if you run into this specific problem:

* "There were a few times when I cranked it, that it ALMOST started. It would start to fire immediately as I let off the start button. But it just wouldn't catch.

Then this is a symptom of a weak battery, due to any number of causes.......

What happens is that as the starter is being engaged, it gobbles up battery voltage. As soon as the start button is released, you now have full battery voltage available TO THE IGNITION CIRCUIT (including the pick-ups, the TCI, and especially the coils), and in that instant when you release the starter button, the coils get enough voltage to produce an adequate spark while the motor is still (by inertia) turning over. If everything is in a great state of tune, the bike will normally kick over. If not, you get the "almost fires" situation explained above, so.........

Test the battery voltage WHILE THE STARTER IS ENGAGED (a voltmeter across the + and - terminals of the battery is all that's needed). It should remain above 9.5 volts while the starter motor is engaged but without the engine running. If it drops below that level while the starter is active, then that's the "problem", and the cause of that problem must be determined and remedied (usually a sign of a bad battery, or it could be a incredibly problematic starter motor).


4) Your charging system output VOLTAGE should be checked, again at the battery terminals, while the engine is running. The measured voltage should be:

* 14.2 - 14.8 Volts at about 2,000 rpms for all non-X models, and the same voltage for "X" models, but at about 3,000 rpms. Again, you would measure these voltages at the battery terminals with your voltmeter.

NOTE: If your alternator is outputting more than 14.8 volts to the battery, your regulator-rectifier unit is bad and should be replaced. Over-charging a battery will quickly ruin it, and may cause severe damage or failure of other electrical components, such as the TCI or the computer monitor system (on bikes so equipped).


Here's your cheat sheet on all of the above:


Static Battery Voltage Test

Prior to conducting this test, make sure the battery has not been
recently charged. You must wait at least one hour after charging
your battery to conduct this test.

a) Adjust voltmeter to DC volts (20 volt range).

b) Place voltmeter leads to the battery terminals (positive to positive and negative to negative).

c) Read voltage and refer to the chart below.

State of Charge:

100% Charged with Sulfate Stop:
Using a syringe Hydrometer: 1.280
Using a Digital Voltmeter: 12.80 volts
Using a Floating-Ball Hydrometer: 5 balls floating


100% Charged:
Using a syringe Hydrometer: 1.265
Using a Digital Voltmeter: 12.60 volts
Using a Floating-Ball Hydrometer: 4 balls floating


75% Charged:
Using a syringe Hydrometer: 1.210
Using a Digital Voltmeter: 12.40 volts
Using a Floating-Ball Hydrometer: 3 balls floating


50% Charged:
Using a syringe Hydrometer: 1.160
Using a Digital Voltmeter: 12.10 volts
Using a Floating-Ball Hydrometer: 2 balls floating


25% Charged:
Using a syringe Hydrometer: 1.120
Using a Digital Voltmeter: 11.90 volts
Using a Floating-Ball Hydrometer: 1 ball floating


0% Charged:
Using a syringe Hydrometer: less than 1.100
Using a Digital Voltmeter: less than 11.80 volts
Using a Floating-Ball Hydrometer: 0 balls floating




Starting Load Test:

a) Adjust voltmeter to DC volts (20 volt range).

b) Place voltmeter leads to the battery terminals (positive to positive and negative to negative) .

c) Watch the voltmeter as you start your motorcycle, but before the engine is running.

d) If the voltage drops below 9.5 volts, the battery has very low capacity and should be replaced.




Charging System Tests:

a) Adjust voltmeter to DC volts (20 volt range).

b) Place voltmeter leads to the battery terminals (positive to positive and negative to negative).

c) Start the engine.

d) Bring engine up to approximately 2,500 rpm's.

e) Compare the voltage reading to the specification given below:

For all XJ-series models, the maximum available charging output VOLTAGE should be as follows (all values are approximate):

* approximately 500-2000 rpms: 1.8 volts gradually increasing to 14.2 volts
* 2000+ rpms: 14.2 volts up to about 14.8 volts, with a maximum of 14.8 volts.

NOTE: the voltage reading must be approximately 14.0 - 14.5 volts to properly charge an AGM battery......anything less, and you will quickly kill these type batteries!

If your charging voltages are too low, suspect the alternator brushes first, then perform the alternator stator and rotor checks as described in the Alternator Section elsewhere in the catalog.

If your charging voltages are too high, suspect your Regulator - Rectifier unit first, and perhaps dirty or corroded electrical terminals. The procedure for checking these is too detailed to describe here, and you should consult your service manual for additional details.


5) Check the condition of your main circuit terminals.....they should be zestfully clean and uncorroded, or you're primed for a variety of problems......not only will your circuits not be getting full power out of your battery, but to add insult to injury, your charging system may think that the battery needs more juice, and so it starts cranking out amps like there's no tomorrow. It's pretty safe to say that neither of those two occurrences qualify as a Good Thing (tm), so...........start at the beginning, and inspect and clean (and then protect, like with di-electric grease or equivalent) all the [/b] terminal connection points[/b]:

* the positive battery post connection to the positive battery cable.
* the positive battery cable connection to the starter relay (or "solenoid").
* the main harness terminal connector from the starter relay.
* the main lead from the starter relay to the starter motor (both ends).
* the "main fuse" contacts inside the fusebox.
* the battery ground cable contacts at both the engine case and at the negative battery post (poor ground are just as bad as poor positive feeds; after all, it takes two to tango, or to complete a circuit, and electricity doesn't care where the restriction occurs).



Battery and Charging System Results:

Okay, now with all of the above out of the way, you should be able to determine whether you need a new battery, or not. There's no need to waste money on a replacement battery if it's not the root cause of your problems. If your battery is good, but your charging system or electrical system isn't, then spend your time and money on fixing the root causes of the problem........such efforts will also help prevent you from murdering your otherwise good battery.

But assuming that your battery is ready to be retired, the question then becomes, which battery?----as they come in a variety of types and price ranges (and, as with most things in life, the more you spend, typically, the better quality you'll get when it comes to a "commodity" product such as a battery).


Basically, motorcycle batteries are of two basic types, the flooded cell type (sometimes called a "wet cell" or "conventional" battery) and the AGM or "absorbed glass mat" type.

Your original-style, Yuasa-brand battery was a "conventional" type, and these are now available in both their original configuration, or in a high-performance version that can output more amperage than the standard style-----and this is typically a cost-effective upgrade.


AGM batteries feature cell separators made of fiberglass mats that minimize the movement of electrolyte (acid), and prevent spillage if tipped over on their side. The acid formulation in these also typically a bit stronger compared to flooded cell batteries, which accounts for their typically higher output. AGM batteries are of the permanently sealed, "maintenance-free" design, thus never requiring the further addition of water or acid.

The charging system of many modern motorcycles that come factory-equipped with an AGM type battery uses a regulator/rectifier that outputs a slightly higher voltage than a flooded cell battery requires. Using an AGM in almost any motorcycle will usually work well, while using a flooded cell battery in a bike designed for an AGM type will often result in overcharging and quick boiling of the electrolyte solution -- it isn't long before the battery is dry and possibly ruined. Of course, all of our XJ-series bikes came originally with a conventional wet ("flooded") type battery, so replacing them with the AGM types is not a problem or issue.

AGM type batteries are also more tolerant of sitting for long periods with minimum formation of lead sulphate (sulfation) on the plates. They can usually be charged at a slightly higher rate and in general provide better performance over the long haul. However, once AGM batteries are "dead"; they're dead, and cannot usually be brought back to life (even for a short amount of time) like a conventional battery can.


Finally, be aware that while AGM batteries are sometimes incorrectly called "gel cells batteries", a true "gel cell" type of battery is quite a bit different, and is actually not recommended for motorcycle use.



Battery FAQ's:


What is a conventional (or "wet" or "flooded") battery?:

These are the standard automotive type design battery, with individual push-in or screw-in battery cell access caps, and normally need the periodic addition of distilled water to "top up" the fluid level.


What is a "maintenance-free" battery?:

Maintenance-free batteries do not require the addition of water after their initial fill of their water/acid electrolytic solution. It means that it is a "sealed" battery, with no filler caps. Note that while conventional "wet" batteries may be available in a sealed, maintenance-free variety, AGM batteries are always of this sealed, maintenance-fee type.


What is a "high-performance" battery?:

Due to plate design and other factors, high-performance batteries have a denser charge ability and will output more amps for a longer period of time (this is the so-called Cold Cranking Amps or CCA rating number that is used to describe a battery) before full discharge.

Although there have been some interesting technological "enhancements" to the basic conventional battery design over the years, almost all "high-performance" (meaning, higher-capacity) batteries rely on more lead material in their plates, resulting in a physically heavier battery. More lead = more money to manufacture and transport the battery, which is why these batteries cost more.


What is an AGM battery?:

AGM is an abbreviation for "absorbed glass mat". In this battery design, the acid is completely absorbed into glass mat separators which are sandwiched between the lead plates. It's a totally sealed and maintenance free design. There are no discharge tubes or fillers caps, which eliminates the need to maintain water levels and offers no concern about acid leaks on valuable parts and accessories.

AGM batteries offer the following advantages over conventional batteries because:

a) their sealed, maintenance-free design means you never have to worry about checking nor maintaining their fluid levels.

b) AGM batteries, unless physically damaged, will not leak or corrode your paint and chrome.

c) they have less internal resistance which offers more cranking amperage than wet batteries.

d) their lower self-discharge rate means they can sit for extended periods of time without constant monitoring. A conventional wet battery discharges 15% a month, where our AGM batteries discharge only 2-3% a month.

e) you can expect a longer service life be expected from an AGM battery-----the main reason conventional wet batteries fail is due to water levels that are not properly monitored and maintained. Conventional batteries are also not very heat nor vibration resistant. AGM batteries are much more heat and vibration resistant than conventional batteries, and of course are maintenance-free, all of which contribute to their longer service life.


What is a gel-cell battery?:

A type of battery that you do not want to use in your XJ-series bike!


What are the electrical specifications for an original battery?:

all XJ550 and XJ650 models:

Capacity: 12ah
Charging rate: 10 hours @ 1.2A
CCA's: 113


all XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900RK models:

Capacity: 14ah
Charging rate: 10 hours @ 1.4A
CCA's: approximately 130


XJ1100 models:
Capacity: 20ah
Charging rate: 10 hours @ 2.0A
CCA's: 260


How should a battery be maintained?:

Good battery maintenance allows you to get the maximum power and life from your battery:

a) always keep the acid level between lower and upper lines on front side of the container (for conventional type batteries that are not sealed).

b) do not let the battery remain in a discharged condition for any length of time. Discover and remedy the cause of such a condition immediately.

c) when a bike is stored for over 30 days at a time, use an automatic battery charger to maintain a proper storage charge.

d) keep the top of the battery case clean, dry, and free of dirt or moisture.

e) clean the battery terminals to prevent corrosion, and treat them to some anti-corrosion spray or coat their exposed areas with di-electric grease. Do not over-tighten the terminal cinch bolts!

f) inspect the battery vent tube regularly, ensuring that it is not bent, twisted or clogged, especially at the bottom of the tube, where it discharges towards the ground......this is the most common place where the tube will get clogged via road debris, etc.

g) protect the battery from strong impacts or shocks.


How long will my new battery live?:

Regardless of battery type or manufacture, you can expect a properly activated, and properly maintained battery (meaning it's neither overcharged nor overly or repeatedly allowed to become fully discharged) to give you 2-4 solid years of life.

Heat is the big enemy of motorcycle batteries----they'll last much longer in a cool climate than a hot one. The self-discharge rate of a battery can run as high as 3% a day in hot weather with a flooded cell battery to about 1% or less per day with an AGM type. Overcharging a battery also overheats a battery---a double whammy! Make sure your charging system is in good order to get the maximum life from your battery.

Constant, repeated complete discharges of a battery will also reduce their lifespan. There's only so many times you can "drain the well" before a battery electrically gives up the ghost.


What are some of the best ways to kill a battery?:

a) Let a discharged battery freeze. Fully discharged batteries freeze at about +25-F, or just below the freezing temperature of water. Fully charged batteries freeze at about 75-F below zero. 'Nuff said........

b) Let a battery overheat.

c) Overcharge the battery........either via the use of an incorrect (or poor quality or defective battery charger), a charging system regulator gone bad, or highly corroded (high resistance) wiring harness connections within the system.

d) "Quick-charge" the battery using an incorrect style battery charger.

e) Allow the fluid level (for wet or conventional batteries) to get too low. This exposes the plates to air, which cause the plates to "sulphate", which leads to increased electrical resistance and a drop in power output.

f) Run a battery down into deep-discharge. Each full discharge event causes sulphate build-up on the lead plates. Do this enough times.....like when your charging system isn't outputting properly........and you'll kill a battery pretty quickly.

g) On conventional batteries, do not use regular tap water to fill or re-fill the battery. Tap water contains minerals and metals that will shorten the life of a battery. Always use distilled or de-mineralized water to fill a battery.


What about my original battery fluid level sensor?:

Some original models with the "computer" dashboard monitor system (1982 XJ750 Maxim, 1981-83 XJ750 Seca, and XJ1100 models) had a low-battery-fluid warning light on the dash, triggered by a fluid-level sensor which replaced one of the battery cell screw-in caps. If the fluid level in that battery cell was too low to trigger the sensor, the circuit in the computer dash warning system would read that as a low-voltage condition and would then illuminate the warning light.

So of course, the first issue in regards to these sensors is: if the light is on, first check your fluid level!

But other issues arise: it could be that the tip of the sensor has become dirty, or encrusted with deposits, in which case even if the fluid level is fine, it will still sense a low-voltage condition. This can be remedied with a gentle cleaning of the sensor tip (steel wool, brass bristle brush, etc.).

Also, the sensor reads voltage, and without enough voltage to trigger the computer system, the light illuminates. The wire path from the sensor goes through your ignition switch and if this switch has electrically "dirty" internal contacts, then that can add enough resistance to cut the voltage signal enough to trigger the dash "low Batt" warning light or display, even though the sensor is fine and the fluid level is okay! So: remove the ignition switch, and its bottom plate, and clean the copper contacts inside the ignition switch.

Finally: a few issues arise with replacement batteries in regards to the use of sensors:

a) some batteries are designed to allow you to re-use your original sensor (we also offer a replacement sensor in case your original is missing or damaged). These conventional-style batteries will feature screw-in caps and your original sensor will screw right in place (by the way, the sensor must be installed in the 4th cell over from the negative post or it will not work correctly and may damage your dash computer!).

b) but some aftermarket batteries, even though they have screw-in caps, have a different "plate depth" internally, and even though the original sensor will screw into the cell port, the sensor tip will be too deep and contact the lead plates in the battery which will cause battery, sensor, and dash computer damage!. Thus you must be careful with aftermarket batteries, and measure the depth of the cell, and if it's shorter than that of an original battery, you must use plastic spacer shims (washers) to space an original sensor "upwards" to the proper depth for such batteries, or carefully trim the sensor tip shorter so that it does not ever contact the internal plates.

c) other aftermarket batteries will have push-in rather than screw-in caps. An original sensor will not fit into these batteries unless that one cell port is "threaded" to accept the sensor. This can be best accomplished by gently screwing into the cell port a proper sized and thread steel bolt, and thus "cutting threads" of the proper size into that cell port opening. Now your original screw-in sensor can be properly installed; however, the same warnings as in issue "b" above (in regards to the depth of the cell) must be observed and remedied, if necessary. Of course, make sure that as you cut these new threads into the battery case, that any plastic "shavings" that are created by this threading process do not get into (or are removed) the battery cell.

d) some of the replacement Yuasa batteries that we offer come with a replacement sensor.......in which case, you discard (or save) your original sensor and just hook up your sensor wire lead to this new sensor.

e) some aftermarket batteries.....such as the replacement "maintenance-free" (sealed) and all AGM batteries......have no "cell caps" and thus are not going to accept a sensor, at all. This present a problem, since the lack of voltage to the dash computer makes it think that there is a battery problem, and the red warning light or display message is always on or blinking at you. Although you can "reset" this annoyance away, there are two other solutions available to you in order to disable or bypass this function:

i) on models that use a warning light, you can simply remove the bulb from your dash! No more "warning" of a low battery fluid condition, but no more annoying blinking light, either.

ii) on all models, you can install a sensor bypass wire that duplicates the function of the original sensor. Basically, as long as you provide the proper voltage input to the dash computer, it will keep the light or the display warning "off". You can draw that voltage from anywhere, but the easiest place to draw it from is the positive side of the starter solenoid/relay (although, should you have a short circuit within your dash computer circuit, this method will drain your battery!). Alternatively, you can draw power from a 12V switched source, one that is only active once the ignition switch is turned on.



What are the best battery myths?:

a) that putting a battery on a cement floor will cause it to discharge. This may have been true a long time ago, when the battery case was made of a rubber material, which would develop hairline cracks and thus allow moisture to permeate into the case, opening up an electrical circuit which would quickly discharge a battery. Modern batteries use molded plastic cases that do not suffer from such a fate.

b) that bringing a battery inside during the winter will prolong its life. Batteries produce electricity via a chemical reaction, and the chemical reaction results in the production of sulphate deposits on the lead plates within the battery, and these sulphate deposits act as electrical insulators----thus reducing the power output and the overall life of the battery. These chemical reactions slow down dramatically with lower temperatures. As long as your battery does not freeze, the lower the temperature, the less the amount of chemical reactions taking place, thusprolonging the life of the battery!

Remember, heat is one of the things that wears out batteries, because they speed up the amount and intensity of these chemical reactions that creates the sulphate deposition on the lead plates.....and those deposits are what really "kills" the battery.

By the way, the main reason why your car or bike cranks over so slowly during winter is not due to "thicker oil" (multi-viscosity oils took care of that issue a long time ago), but because of the decreased chemical reactions (meaning less electrical output generation) within the battery due to those lower temperatures.


Can I jump-start my dead motorcycle battery from a car battery?:

Yes, BUT.................

a) you need to make sure that you are using the proper gauge jumper cables.

b) hook the jumper cables up incorrectly (+ to -) and if you're lucky, you'll just burn up your TCI unit. If you're unlucky, you'll blow up your battery, your bike, or yourself.

c) make sure that your key switch and all electrical power drains are OFF before you hook up the jumper cables.

d) the best sequence of battery connection is to hook up both jumper cables onto the dead battery first, and then connect the positive lead to the good battery, and finally the negative lead to the good battery (or a good ground on the donor battery frame, etc.).



Your quest for more battery knowledge may still remains unsatisfied; if so, a great battery tutorial can be found at:

http://www.batteryfaq.org






BATTERIES:

All of the following batteries are high-quality, the correct size to fit into your battery box, and have the proper terminal orientations for your bike.

All batteries can be shipped only with the USA, and can be shipped either via ground or air delivery. However, due to the weight of the batteries, the free or reduced shipping discounts do not apply to these items!


NOTE: all batteries come with cable terminal attaching bolts and nuts; all non-sealed batteries have the overflow tube included; and all batteries come with charging instructions which must be followed exactly in order to not damage the battery during initial charging! AGM batteries come charged, but you should check the voltage and slowly (meaning with the use of a "trickle charger") bring the battery back to full charge before first use.....doing otherwise will void any manufacturer's warranty!

NOTE: on all non-sealed ("wet" or "conventional" style batteries) always be sure to remove the small red seal from the overflow vent tube when installing the battery. Never put this red tube back on to the battery after it is activated. Gases built up in a battery that is not allowed to vent can cause serious damage, and possible serious injury, if the battery bursts.


for all XJ1100 models:

 

Underneath the gas tank there is a large Molex connector with 3 white wires. Make sure this connection is good, and the plugs are not melted. My tac. quit working, but the bike ran fine. I had to replace the plug, as it had severely overheated. Mike

 

I thought it might have something to with the 3 white wires. Mine are not burnt but one may be disconnected inside one of the butt end connectors I used to put a new plug on the harness. You cant see it until you undo it.
I will work on it sometime this week and let you guys know what I find.

Thanks

 

What is The Bay? I did a Google search but did not find anything that has anything to do with batteries.

 

Sure would be nice if someone could explain why this is the case... something to do with the charge rate, mayhaps?

 

Egg-xactly.

 

lol I get it now

 

UPDATE
I soldered the three white wires from the coil and check all connections at the Voltage regulator and everything is good. I did a oms test on the white wires and can't tell of it is good but I think it is ok. My meter is analog and can't read the .037 oms but zeros out like the other one I have. Now I checked the green black wires and it is about 15 oms and it is out of spec.
It calls for 4.0 oms. I just replaced the brushes it looks good wires look good what now. It is just two wires that go to the brushes. Do I have to replace the center coil with the magnets?
PS the tack does not work.
The battery after 10 hour charge works fine.
Thanks

 

PS if that is bad would that make the tach not work as well?
Thanks

 

UPDATE..... YES THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR CAN CAUSE THE TACHOMETER AND CHARGING SYSTEM TO MALFUNCTION! I REPLACED IT TODAY AND ALL BETTER! THANKS FOR YOUR HELP

 

That's a BEAUTY!

You should be very proud of how nice that Bike looks.
Congratulations.

 

Thanks I am proud of it and all the work I have put into it.
It still needs some polishing but I picked this bike up last year and I have been working on the mechanics. I payed $600 for it and it looked great but was not running. I would like to know how too remove that white crusty corrosion that is on some of the aluminum.

 

Get the ACE Hardware 3-Buffing Wheel Polishing Set.

The Mandrill fits an Electric Drill and it comes apart to allow for the different Buffing Wheels to be used.

Buy and additional 2 Flat Washers and 2 EXTERNAL Star Locking Washers.
Now, your in Business!
Get a couple of Squares off ScotchBrite Pad. The Gray is Medium.
I use a Yogurt Cup to trace-out Discs of ScotchBrite.

Cut-out 6 or 7 Discs of ScotchBrite
Mount them on the Mandrill
Use the Flat washers to Apply Force and the Star Washers INSIDE the Flats to Keep the ScotchBrite from losing friction.

Ugly Clearcoat and Aluma-Oxidation getting rid-of tool.

Nut --> Flat --> Star --> Pad, pad, pad, pad, pad, pad, <--Star <-- Flat

 

WOW that sounds great I will do that as soon as I get all the mechanical bugs out. Thanks