Clutch Cacked Last Night

Halfway home and I suddenly could not shift from 2nd to 3rd, and the clutch handle went limp. Thinking it was a broken cable (new last year), imagine my surprise to see it was fine, but there was no resistance on the clutch mechanism where it goes into the engine. Normally you can't budge that lever. WWAAAHHHH...I suspect clutch problems. Anybody else have this same scenario happen? It was an interesting ride home in 2nd gear, using traffic reduced routes where I could coast through stop signs etc. Going to remove the side cover (after draining the oil) and hope things aren't too bad. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

 

you should have still been able to shift gears even with the clutch engaged. That really bites keep us updated on what you find incase it happens to my X.

 

Depending on the revs, I could shift but I chose not to because it did not feel like the right thing to do. Will keep you informed for sure.

 

Either the gear teeth on the throwout shaft stripped, or that shaft broke, or the throwout bearing broke apart, or stripped a tooth or two, or the web in the case that holds the throwout shaft failed. Clutches are simple and the parts are cheap. Post pics.

BTW, throw it on the sidestand and don't bother draining the oil. On the airheads at least, you can work on the clutch while on the sidestand and not lose a drop. I'm doing it right now.

 

As this is ater-cooled, I'm wondering if I can put it on the sidestand and not drain the oil...would make things easier. Anyone else know if this can be done with the watercooled version??
Oh yeah, Stanley Cup Playoff game 3 tonite...I'm hoping for the hometown boy Crosby and the Pens!! they've dug themselves a hole.

 

Hey, good tip! Maybe this weekend I'll pull my clutch and check thickness etc... didn't realize you didn't have to drain! Awesome tip Fitz.

 

Stay tuned. I'm in the middle of a clutch rework on my '81 RIGHT NOW and I'm taking pictures.

I'm really curious as to exactly what broke here. Other than simply stripping/breaking gear teeth on the shaft or the TO "pullrod" I'm flabbergasted.

HOLD THE PHONE: I just looked in the fiche. Your throwout actuator shaft GEAR is separate from and clips onto, the shaft. If the clip broke, or came off, or the gear broke it would fail exactly as described.

Now, I got $5 says it's the gear on the end of the throwout shaft...

 

More like the refs have dug their hole.

 

The hole was made easier to get out of when you have one too many men on the ice and the ref's just let it happen......
We are starting to get a series on our hands now boys...

Detroit in 6

 

Use Vice Grips or a Large Adjustable Wrench and apply some leverage to the Throw-out arm at the Top of the Throw-out Rod extending down into the Case.

If there is Heavy Resistance and it feels like the Throw-out mechanism is working properly we start to worry.

 

Rick he said there is NO resistance to the mechanism it's just "flapping in the breeze." I think the gear on the bottom of the shaft failed somehow; it's not integral to the shaft like most XJs.

 

So help me learn a bit since I have not had the pleasure of a clutch rebuild. Assuming parts broke - clip - gear - whatever, can the parts migrate out of the clutch housing into the sump or worse?

 

I will be pulling the cover off this afternoon..after work of course. Depending what I find, I may submit some pics for consultations. Hopefully it'll be something real simple, like a loose screw...(only in my head!!). I've ordered new springs for the clutch anyway.

 

Broken bits COULD fall into the sump if they were small enough. I don't think they could get anywhere else (other than tangled up in the oil pump gears or clutch itself.)

Please do anyway. We'd really like to know what let go in there.

 

I think is the Gear at the bottom of the Cluthh Throwout Rod came loose ... there would be a Small Gear and its locking hardware that would faall straight down and find a cavity or compartment to rest in.

The Oil Pump has a filter.
The Drive Gear is covered.

 

Rick..when I pulled the cover off, the small gear you mentioned was lying at the bottom of the case, but no circlip. Spent the better part of an hour looking for it only to start swearing, and looking at the cover again...to my surprise, the circlip was stuck to the gasket! It must have been right on the seam and when the cover came off, it fell onto the gasket which had sealer on it.
Now for the next problem. The clutch bolts keep breaking after I've torqued down the bolts and new springs to 5 foot pounds. Then when I reset my torque wrench for 7 foot pounds and start on the bolts, they snapped off just above the theads. Imagine my surprise when the first one let go. After getting that one out and replacing it, I started again using the same procedure for tightening incremently and staggered. To my chagrin, another one of those bolts sheared off. I checked this site and have read about 20 topics and discovered 2 different torque settings for these clutch basket bolts. they are 5.8 'lbs, and 7.2'lbs. I have the Maxim-X 1985 750cc. Which of these torque values should I use? And should I replace these wimpy bolts? :?

 

They're breaking to tell you they should be replaced. Every torque spec I've seen for clutch bolts has been 5.8ft/lb, which is "just tight."

(Actually they're breaking because in all likelihood they were overtightened at some point.) You should replace them anyway.

 

^^^+1^^^ Get those bolts replaced.

 

I just did that tonite and put everything back together. Tomorrow will be add oil and coolant, then see how the clutch feels. One thing right off the bat, it's taking more force to squeeze the clutch lever...good sign.