Stock airbox removal questions.

I am in the process of installing pod filters on my bike. For those of you who have experience in this area, how did you get the stock airbox out. I could cut it out but then it will never be usable again.I have removed all bolts and anything else in the way. The way the airbox is made the bottom of it is hitting the starter.

 

That's because you'll have to pull the motor to get it out without cutting it; you have to pull the motor to install a new one too. You could TRY heating it with a heat gun or hair drier and "distorting" it.

You do realize that by eliminating the airbox and changing to pods you are setting yourself up for some tuning "issues." If you're hoping for some sort of huge performance gain, it ain't gonna happen.

Personally, I wouldn't do it.

 

I think i am going to go with the stage 1 kit, this way i can keep my stock airbox and probably have a lot less issues with tuning.

 

You remove the starter. Remove the clutch cable bracket. Play some really bad Hippy music. This thread was here about 3 weeks ago.
Somebody please link it here. . .

What's odd is that the airbox comes out of the 650 frame which should be smaller than the 750 frame.
The motors are the same size. Same airbox. But you can't pull this trick with the 750 bike.. What gives??

 

I cut the backend of the bike off, the air box slipped right out ;-)

 

These XJ-Engines are designed to Operate most efficiently and with their beat performance employing the Stock Air Box and Boots.

Pods will cause the Intake Air to be unlimited and throw-off the Air-Fuel Mixture.

Rejetting and adjusting the Carbs to accommodate the individual Air Pods is often very difficult.

Performance suffers.

 

750 air box is slightly bigger, shaped differently..........

 

that is why you dump the junk CV carbs and go for a performance round/flat slide setup!!!

 

*is jealous*

 

just for everyones info: you do not have to pull the motor to install the stock airbox. Remove carbs, remove starter, remove clutch cable bracket, and here's the one everbody is scared of for some reason-remove #3 and #4 carb to intake boots. Once you get this all removed just wedge it in from the right side of the bike. Yes i did snap off a #3 boot cap screw but I drilled and retapped it. Thanks for everyones input. Thread closed.

 

I just received my new(old) stock xj750 Airbox. Do it like Len shows you in the video, watch 5 times... it can work.
(I bought my bike with pods and some jet changes. My goal is getting it back to stock. Rebuilt the carbs.
cleaned, em, I even giddely attached the airbox to carb, all excited to "pop it back in"(right?) Wrooong, greenhorns, there is no popping in this process. As most everyone here has splained.
You have to remove the starter (and I recommend the 2 screws standing proudly behind it. You don't have to mess with engine.You can only put it in from the right side, and yes if you push too hard you are likely to break or crack something, like I did on the bottom(bolt punched thru bottom(heavy duty black duct tape solved issue, that no one will ever see. I got the box used with no top, so I didn;t feel so bad.
Once the air box is in(lets all call it the "Lenny"move), the real fun begins. I tried all orders of install. The order that works if you are not pulling the engine is:
1) install intake boots(change screws,gasket,antiseize), 2)remove the starter,(of course tank too), 3)grab beer, 4)remove annoying airbox' shoulder pads', 5)install airbox with goal("I wont quit till its in... Jus do it, or try not, do! or do not!...") Len makes it look easy, it ain't. "Grease up" the corners and contact points, it can't hurt. Shove, pull, yank, till it goes in. (I didn't use heat, I pulled a Lenny.) 6)Lovingly squeeze the carb in from the left,Install engine side of Carb, (a light wipe of 3-1 on the edges of rubber helps, outside of engine side carb mouth, do the airbox boots(both sides(for later) and outside edge of carb mouth(air side), slowly work carbs onto engine side. It's a bear,and clamp. (make sure your clamps flanges dont impede the throttle controls(ahhhemmm). 7)Next pull airbox up to line up boots(they will try to fold into carb mouth), work each side and then the center 2, the oil is your best friend now. The film of oil you applied to the airbox side of boot will be huge as you spend 30 min to an hour trying to get them on, pulling out the stubborn edges of rubber. A long handle flat head screwdriver and flashlight or small helper is recommended. You got em in! I don't want to do that
on this bike for a really long time. Cant wait to see how those diaphram rubbers work!
Good luck

 

Are you talking about the case screws just aft of the starter motor (one holds the engine ground strap)?
If removed those absolutely NEED to be retorqued to the proper spec.
If you are talking about the two case bolts that are between the starter and the alternator housing, I would not touch those. Too great a risk of case warpage if they are removed alone and out of sequence.

 

I did not know that...so leave the screws in,lube the airbox!

 

Stock airbox ....is the only way to make the CV carbs to work.

 

...without having to futz around for many weeks.