Are my intake rubbers any good? *Pics*

Should These be replaced or repaired?
They look quite beat up, and I am having rev issues as well, possibly from a leak.




I appreciate all your advice

 

I f you can afford to, replace them, but they look as if they could be repaired.

 

money is not any worry, the cap screws are my issue.
If I dont have to pull them I'd prefer not to.
I do have some red high heat rtv sealent

 

Yeh use that with pieces of carefully cut bicycle inner tube.

 

another remedy ive used in the past is fiberglass resin. seems to seal up worn boots nicely, however, if you can get them off, id replace them. last set i bought was for a gs1100 from bike bandit, and i dont recall them being more then 30 or 40 bucks for the set.

 

You sure that was for the front boots?

 

lol, my mistake, that must have been the rears. the fronts are listed at 25.97 a peice. 8O

 

Those allen bolts will come out OK if you give them a few hits to loosen them. Get a 5mm allen socket in there and hit them with a hammer. They should undo pretty easily after that.

 

Soak with Kroil for a week first. Repair the less badly cracked boots (if the cracks don't go all the way through, you're fine.) Remove manifold screws ONLY if absolutely necessary.

 

I repaired mine using self amalgamating silicone tape. Its heat and fuel resistant and its cheap.

 

I'd get some new ones. Clearly yours are breaking down. You'll never get it to run right if these are "iffy".

 

Billy Mays here for Mighty Putty!!!!

 

Re-skin them in place if the bolts are a concern. Then douse with Kroil as mentioned and start saving your pennies for a new set of boots and bolts to be installed when you can afford to have the bike down for a few days in case you have to take the head in for machine work.

 

It's been my experience that those cracks where the clamp will sit will cause the most problems with a temporary fix. If your idle is iffy, there is a reason... does is seem to get more iffy as it warms up? Before I got my new set, the bike would start ok, but once the rubber got warm and pliable, the cracks would come alive. Everything has been so much easier since the new boots, I wish I would have figured that out a loooong time ago.

I will say, however, I did not do the bicycle tube trick... in my mind, that would probably work.

Might as well nab the new ones though; Piece of mind is worth a lot.

 

Oh, I'm assuming the 750's would be the same... I have an 82 Maxim that's a 750... I got it for a few parts that will pay for themselves, haha... That being said, the rubbers look like they are in surprising condition; unfortunately, that's one thing that would never translate over to my 650 (or I'd keep them myself). I'd recommend just getting new, but if you, or anyone, wants to save a few pennies, i'll snap some photos and send them to you.

 

If you decide to go the inner tube route, 2.125 size bicycle inner tube is a good size for stretching around the intake boots. I suggest taking your finger and smearing/pushing a film of RTV silicone all around the boots just before you stretch the inner tube on. The inner tube method works pretty good and is not all that noticable after it's all put back together.