How do you keep your YICS tool rubber from melting?

So, I used the specs given in the YICS tool sticky to make one, with a couple of minor alterations.

My first attempt using a # 6 rod didn't work well as the rod really wasn't strong enough to push the thing in, so I upgraded to a # 10 x 24 rod. The nut is too big for the YICS tube, obviously, so what I did was to add an additional 1/2" piece of steel brakeling to the end and used a propane torch/solder to weld it in place. Voila', just as good as lock nut.

So put in the tool, try to use and balance the carbs. Rubber on tool melts.

So what do you folks use that won't melt? The fuel line I used was supposed to be rated to 250 deg F.

The option I am going to try is to take a piece of 3/8 ID tubing, put a 4.5 to 5mm piece of metal up the middle (lubricated so as to hopefully eliminate silicone adhesion, and then fill the tube around the "rod" with Hi-Temp RTV and hopefully make my own silicone, high temp, spacer.

I'd really like to know what you folks have done to conquer this issue as I am concerened regarding rtv adhesion to both the mold and inner "hole" device and have doubts as to how it will turn out. Another possibility would be to just fill the hose with the rtv and then drill through that to put the hole in the middle ... I'll do both at the same time and see which works best.

 

Mike I know in the threads they are using High temp silicon tubing. I gave up, not being able to find it and bought a tool from Chacal.

I lube mine with Marvel oil and only leave it in a few minutes at a time - removing it and allowing it to cool for a while then relubing.

 

I used 600 degree silicone tubing from McMaster-Carr. Hasn't melted yet!

 

i leave it in the tool box, never melts
i didn't say that,just kidding

 

There's two solutions:

a) use the really high-temp silicone tubing as Captain Kirk recommends, although 600-F is kind of "overkill"!

b) Do as Bill advises, remove the tool every few minutes, and don't leave the tool inside the head when you turn the engine off.

Yamaha offered replacement seals to their dealers to "repair" their melted YICS tool seals, too.........


250-F tubing is way to low, the outside of the heads get over 300-F, the inside are probably 100-F hotter than that.........

 

Set-up fans to cool-off the Engine while you are tuning.

 

Get a 82 650RJ Seca...


... non-YICS

 

I had a big box fan on it blowing on high, it was in the shade, and breezy ...

I tried locally to track down some silicon tubing, none to be found at any automotive or hardware store. One place came close, but it was a large packaged piece of silicon vacuum hose that they wanted $20 for and was only 5/16th OD ...

I'll check out Kirk's reference.

Do any of you think my home formed hi-temp RTV will work?

 

And they call me a trouble maker. :roll:

 

Don't feel bad my home made one melted too. I ended up buying one from you-know-who.

You still can't just leave it in there; I do as Bill suggests and remove to cool periodically.

 

He`s a damn trouble maker that Wizlock blokes.

 

:lol:

 

Exactly why I just bought one - too much time and money - easier to just buy it.

You can try you home made version - may work...

 

The one I bought from Chacal will melt too. Had a fan blowing on engine to help. After carbs were in sync, I tried to remove the YICS blocking tool. Wouldn't budge. Had to let the enginc cool for a couple of hours and then it came out with difficulty. Wish I'd have thought about the oil on the tool idea, might have helped. Ended up scraping some of the red off the tools shaft when removed. Guess where that red stuff is When I took it out for a test ride, it sputtered a few times for the first couple of miles and then ran better. I thing it needed to burn the red coating from the tool off first. Ran great the rest of the 20 mile test ride.

 

can't take credit for the lubing and only keeping in a couple of minutes - that came off Len's instructions I got with the tool.

 

Always helps to read the instructions

 

The only thing in the box I got was the invoice and the parts I ordered.
No harm done nonetheless

 

Well, the plugs I tried making just didn't harden up well on the inside. Once the outside hardened, the inside stopped curing. So I had a nice gooey center ...

I went ahead and ordered from McMasters-Carr.

The stuff is relatively inexpensive, $1.40 a foot.

I bought 2 ft because it seemed really silly to buy just a foot ...

I someone else would like some pieces, I'll be happy to send you a 2 in section for a the cost of postage, envelope and $.25 ...

 

In case we forget to send instruction to anyone, here they are!


HCP5460 YICS TOOL USAGE

Thank you for your purchase of our reproduction YICS port blanking tool.

This tool is a copy of the original Yamaha tool that is to be used when synchronizing the engine. When the tool is inserted and engaged (by flipping the trunion lever handle 90-degrees), the small rubber seals expand and effectively eliminate any cross-cylinder vacuum signals that would negate any attempt to achieve proper synchronization.

To use this tool correctly, you should:

1) Check and adjust (as necessary) the valve clearances by replacing any valve shims with their correct sizes. NOTE: although no one wants to hear this, and even fewer want to perform this task, the proper adjustment of the intake and exhaust valve clearances is an absolute necessity in order to be able to obtain a proper engine synch and tune-up. I know---it’s a dreaded, hoary task, but on the bright side, it shouldn’t be necessary to do it but once every 7500 miles or so. And Yamaha clearly states that unless you make sure that the valves are adjusted correctly, you’re basically just wasting your time synching the engine (or colortuning your carbs). Something to think about…….

2) Anyway, to continue….. adjust the tension of the tool by setting the trunion (flip-over) handle to its "open" or relaxed position, and insure that there is very little or no pressure at all on the rubber seals. If, in the open/relaxed position there IS any tension or swelling of the rubber seals noticed, loosen the small nut at the end of the shaft to relieve almost all of the seal tension. YOU DO NOT WANT THE SEALS TO BE SWOLLEN WHILE TRYING TO INSERT THE TOOL INTO THE PASSAGE! You will tear the seals, be unable to close the handle once installed, and/or will get the tool stuck within the passage…..which is a REAL bummer (don’t ask how we know about this……).

3) Remove both the left and right YICS passage bolts and visually inspect the condition of the passage (a small flashlight is helpful in performing this task, as it can allow you to "sight" down the length of the passage as if you were sighting down thru the barrel of a gun). Inspect the passage for excessive carbon build-up on the walls, and if present, such build-up should be removed. NOTE: removal of the carbon build-up is necessary to insure a proper, non-binding fit of the tool within the passage, as the tolerances of the tool OD to the passage ID is very tight, and any excessive carbon build-up may cause the tool to bind and/or get stuck in the passage.


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If carbon build-up is noted, you will need to use some type of mechanical scrubbing and a strong solvent to remove the build up. Our HCP1410SS stainless steel wire bristle brush performs well for this task, along with a strong solvent. We recommend a aggressive gun-cleaning solvent, Hoppes #9 (available at most gun shops) to cut through the carbon build-up. Use small, clean rags to "wipe" any dissolved build-up out of the passage after each cleaning pass with the bristle brush. A large amount of accumulated carbon build-up may take several cleaning attempts before the carbon is fully removed.

http://www.hoppes.com/products/solvents.html

4) If you have purchased out HCP1282 YICS port clean-out tool, now is the time to use it to probe the four tiny YICS ports at the top of the passage. Gently use the pointed tip of the tool to punch through any accumulated carbon build-up in these ports.

5) Now you're ready to begin use of the YICS blanking tool for synchronization purposes. Re-install one of the YICS passage end bolts and its washer (either the left or right side, it doesn't matter) and tighten it to 16.0 ft-pounds. Lightly oil the entire shaft of the YICS tool with silicone spray lubricant, WD40, etc. Insert the tool into the passage until the large end grommet is FIRMLY seated against the end of the passage.

6) Flip up the trunion (locking) lever to lock swell the rubber seals and lock the tool into the cylinder. If the tool is not REALLY tight in the YICS passage, remove the tool and tighten the adjusting nut at the end of the tool slightly, re-insert tool and try again. The tool, when locked, should not be movable within nor removable from the passage.

7) With the shutoff tool properly in place, follow normal engine synch procedures.

8) When synch is completed, release the locking lever and remove the YICS shutoff tool from the passage. Reinstall the YICS passage bolt and its washer, and torque the bolt to 16.0 ft-lbs.

9) You’re done! Wipe the tool shaft clean with a dry rag. Store the YICS tool in the non-engaged position.




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10) NOTE: If you using the YICS tool in conjunction with a Colortune procedure, OR, if for any reason, your engine synch procedure lasts more than a few minutes, it is recommended that the YICS tool be removed from the YICS chamber to allow it some cool-down time, as the rubber expansion seals in the tool WILL melt if they get overheated. This problem will make an incredibly difficult-to-clean mess within your YICS chamber! Therefore, please remember to remove the YICS tool from the chamber every few minutes and let it cool down, and whenever you shut the engine down, make the removal of the YICS tool your first priority.

11) Replacement YICS tool expansion seals can be obtained ordering part number HCP6380B.




info@xj4ever.com
HCP5460instV2.doc

 

Mine stays in the bag on the shelf. Well, at least that's where I THINK it is..... I never use it. Don't need to..... Yup- opening that debate back up again---- lol

 

i used to have one, long time ago

 

If you don't oil it as stated in the instructions, or simply leave it in too long it's going to be difficult to get out. I remove the YICS passage bolt and then use a gently pull the tool while wiggling it, sometimes with a pair of pliers, until it begins to move, and then it comes out easily. I don't let it stay in very long and always get it out immediately after shutting down. I think oil and time in are the most critical elements to using it without problems.

 

I don't remove the passage bolt and I let it cool for a few seconds after i release the lever to let the heat dissipate otherwise this is exactly how i use it.

Gary H.

 

I am with Hogfiddles
I don't use one.. guess what.. you can still tune your carbs and not use it
I never will use one.. why bother
my 2 cents

 

Not much to discuss that already hasn't been. Bottom line...it's your choice. Len sells the correct replica with the seals. Buy and use it or not. As far as I'm concerned whether you use it or not means absolutely nothing.

Gary H.