Setting Floats....aftermarket needles/seat nightmare

I was hoping someone had a few tips/tricks to bestow on me for setting float levels. Tried to set them dry and that was a no go. With the aftermarket seats/needles the spec doesn't work, they overflow big time.

I've got them almost set to the limit (where the little limiting "tang" that touches one of the float towers is resting against it). I'm at work right now but its something like 26mm to the top of the float from the gasket surface.

So far 3 of 4 are close enough to spec that I'm comfortable tossing the rack in and seeing what they run like.

I think I've spent roughly 9 hours total on these darn things and spilled a ton of gas all over with improvised devices for fuel supply and capture.

82 650- Hitachis with full rebuild kits and aftermarket needles/seats.

 

I haven't done it myself, but I've read enough posts to offer this advice: search for "clear tube method." Most folks around here seem to swear by it.

 

I went through the same thing. Spent 3-4 hours and gave up. Garage reeked of gas. I reinstalled the old ones. If anybody wants these aftermarket ones, I'll give them away. i think I paid $50 for them.

 

Dry set should get you close but testing with the clear tube will get you perfect. The length of the needle should only effect how far you have to bend the tang and should not change the float height measurement.

I dry set mine than use the tube method to fine tune. You can set one perfect then measure it and set the rest to be the same which should save some time. You still need to double check them but they should be close.

Also I have been fooled more than once until I figured this out- they can and will stick when filling from dry. Make sure to tap them as they fill or you will see overflow even though they are set fine. If it overflows and you get it stopped drain some fuel from it before measuring with the tube or you get bad readings (more frustrating knowledge I gained.)

 

Ya think maybe that's why the factory book shows the "clear tube" method?

 

I understand the frustration. The aftermarket needles/seat that I bought were a different length than the originals.

 

Dont get me started on the aftermarket needles and seats!!!! I spent 10 hours trying to set mine using the clear tubes. The new seats just dont seal worth a crap---unless you tap constanly with dry filling to get an accurate reading like bill said. I dressed my seats with a drill bit to shine ub the bevel. not sure if it helped but ive put 20 miles on the bike after all that and it seems to be fixed-so far. The engine vibration seems to be enough to help them seated. Ill give my new aftermarket seats away to if someones got some good originals. My advice is spend the extra money for the OEM needle valves to anyone that is replacing theirs. You wanna talk about a headache!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

 

With my 20% discount at my local dealer, a single OEM needle and seat assy costs about $90! OUCH

 

chacal (XJ4Ever, see forum index) lists them at $64...

 

You might try getting a set of OEM needles and using the old seats. I have never seen a seat that uses the viton tipped needle worn were it was the problem. I've used a Qtip and polishing compound to clean them up. Installed a new set of needles and it's all good. Also you can adjust the other tang on the float so that the floats do not drop down low enough to hang up on the dry fill. Saves a lot of fuel from running down your arm.