broken exhaust stud HELP!!

I broke off the nut and some of the threads, going into the cylinder head,how can I remove the stud? Is the thread backwards?

 

Ok is there any thing sticking out to grab ahold of??


MN

 

OUCH! I feel your pain.
First, to answer your question, The threads are normal (counter-clockwise to loosen). If you can get some heat + kroil or wax in there and have something to grab, you may get lucky and get it out.
Checked mine the other night and three (yes THREE) of the studs were snapped off. Decided to remove and replace. Cylinder 1, no problem, studs came right out (w/ heat and vice grips). Cylinder two, both snapped off. Just inside the head(manifold? What is that part of the engine called anyways?). So, the one that I can get to, I drill a hole through and get out my easy-out. Which proceeded to break off. Inside the stud...Haven't found a drill bit that'll go through that yet. Decided to leave well enough alone at that point. So, does anyone have that part of the engine available? Or know of a drill bit that'll go through hardened steel?

 

Best thing to do is take the head ofgf andf take iy to a machine shop.

Just befoire you snapped them off.

The nachine shop can still extract them for you. Good time td oo a valve lap etc.

Sorry about your mis-fortune.

Lorn

 

I have plenty to grab onto (it snapped at the nut) how much heat should i give it? I have a propane torch....

 

A reasonable amount of heat. About 10/15 seconds. Try turning it with a vice grip, won't budge -> heat again 10s -> try again -> and so on.

Try to heat the material around the stud, and not the stud itself. That way the head will expand while the stud remains pretty much the same diameter.


grz Thijs

 

Heat up the stud and the area around it and use a crayon or candle and touch it around the area where the stub and block meet. If you have enough heat the wax can be drawn into the block. This will sometimes work just depend on how much crud is in their holding it together. Just don't over heat like they said...it is aluminuim.

 

You can also try alternating between tightening and loosening when your torquing on it with the vise grips.

If you do snap it off flush a good high speed steel drill bit should be able to cut through the stud. You just have to make sure to start with the smallest pilot hole you can and work up to bigger bits as the drills tend to wander out of the hard stud into the soft aluminum. Once you have drilled it out you can look into putting in helicoils.

Just make sure to have some good drill bits if drilling.

 

That is a very good tip. Key is break the bond between the stud and head material. Once that is done it should come out easily.


grz Thijs

 

If there is any stud sticking out, or if it is flush, you can weld a nut to the top of the broken stud.

Failing that, heat the stud until it is cherry red, then let it cool NATURALLY which then anneals the stud, making it tougher. The expansion of the thread should break the mesh that it has with the thread. It is tight because the stud has stretched when it was torqued.

Failing that, if you can see the stud and it is reachable, use a centre punch in the centre of the broken stud and give it a good wack, but be careful not to miss, and remember to wear some eye and hand protection !

 

Well I tried all your ideas.....
First i let it soak overnight in lube,then in the morning i I whacked it a couple times with the hammer.I then heated it up and melted some wax into it....
PRESTO!! it came out!!!
Thanks for your help and support..Pics with the new pipes to follow.....

 

....I hate you blackmax... :evil: (j/k)
You're fortunate...my funcontinues....

The fun never ends...

 

Awsome! congrats on your good furtune.... "When in doubt, Go Stout"
Did the wax draw in pretty good? I personally can only seem to make it work 50% of the time.