Best way to fix those plastic parts?

Is there any decent way to get fixed those cracked plastics, my right side cover has cleavage where it should hold that rubber under seat and it is too loose to hold. And that tail piece behind seat is snapped too pieces next to mounting bolts, that I tried to glue, but it didn't hold :? Some repair advices would be highly appreciated...

 

I've run paint and body shops since '75 and I can tell you JBWeld is our friend. We use the one for plastics all the time without problems. They do require sanding afterward usually.

 

I'm not sure what you have available there, brand-name wise, but I'm sure there has to be a similar product.

You need to find a two-part, solvent-based plastic welding cement. Here in the States, there are a number of "two-part" epoxy-for-plastics kind of products; the only kind I've had any luck with is the solvent-based "plastic welder" type. The others appear to stick but simply fall off after a while. The problem is they don't say "solvent based." But SOME of them DO say "use in a well-ventilated area." That's generally the clue.

Good luck. You may have to experiment a bit.

 

the black plastic on my seca side covers is "abs" plastic the same kind as the black plastic pipe at the home centers, they sell glue for it, but it doesn't have enough body to do much good
so what you do is buy a short length of pipe (the place i went had 2 foot sections)
and make some chips of plastic, file, saw,drill, scrape with a knife, you get the idea
lay some glue on the crack then sprinkle on the chips, press them in as the glue melts them put more on
let it set over night, when it's hard it's better than new

 

I use this technique:

Drill a SMALL Hole at the end of the Crack to PREVENT the Crack from spreading.

Put the Piece together and TAPE the CRACK together on the FRONT SIDE.
Look at the back side.
Cut a Paper Template to go over the Crack and EXTENDING 2-1/2 Inches Beyond the Crack in all directions.
Trace the Template onto a piece of ALUMINUM Screen Door Repair Screen
Make (2) two Repair Pieces of Screen.

Mix a sufficient quanity of: "5-Minute Epoxy / Plastic Repair Type.
Spread Epoxy down on surface to be repaired.
As the Epoxy begin to cure --> Lay-on the Screen!
Push the Screen into the Epoxy and "FORM" it.
(It may be necessary to Pre-cut the Screen for tough angles. If the Screen "Folds" ... let it fold and continue "SEATING" the Screen into the BASE Layer of the Epoxy.
I use a Regular Table Knife -- Butter Knife, a Putty Knife, and a Paring Knife as TOOLS to work the Epoxy and Screen)

Just as soon as you complete getting the Base and Screen on to the repair ...
begin mixing the 2nd Coat.
Apply the 2ns Coat of Epoxy on over the Screen and add the 2nd Layer of Screen.
Once the 2nd Layer of Screen is in place ... Mix more Epoxy and FLOAT IT
all over the 2nd Layer of Screen.

If you are using "Side-by-Side" Syringe Epoxy ... shoot some away from the Mix and scoop-up the Hardener and add the Hardener to the Final Mix.
It will let the Epoxy FLOAT easier ... PLUS ... Harden FASTER.

Once you get the Back-side of the Repair done ... do the front.
Rough-up the "LINE" of the Crack with 100 Sandpaper.
Mix Bondo or AutoBody Glasing Putty to conceal the Crack
Let the repair completely dry 24 Hours.
Sand smooth with 320
Begin wet sanding
400, 800, 1000
Prime
2nd Coat Primer
Wet Sand Primer
Paint
Dry
Ride!

 

JB Wled is about the best stuff for a cracked plastic part. It will hold like steel (or at least aluminum)
I used JB Weld on a broken aluminum clutch lever and it worked perfect. Infact, I tried my dambdest to break it once it was fixed and I can't. That stuff is tough as nails.
I've since broke my front brake lever and fixed that too (I know it's gamble when working on a brake component like that) but I am unable to re-break it, so I don't see it failing to hold up.
Just make sure the parts to be glued are cleaned properly and it'll hold up just fine.

 

Please forget the epoxies etc. The plastic Bits on Yamahas are of ABS plastic Suggest you find buy and Use Oately brand ABS glue.. the Stuff Plumbers use It WORKS!... period.
No substitutes required/desired.

 

I would prefer hot air welding plastic. Some of my local fellow riders have had good luck repairing their plastics on their sportbikes. One of them has been using a hot air welder like this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=41592 I have used one like this at work repairing PVC and CPVC piping.