Metal prep and blasting Q's

So I got a new compressor and a pressurized blasting pod... My plan is to strip the 650 frame, then spray it with POR15 paint and Blackcote.

What do you guys think would be the best blasting media to do the frame? I'm thinking about getting some glass beads from HF, but apparently there are several grits available.

Is there another medium that would be better?

first time blasting anything.... Wanna make sure I get it right.

 

Here at the shop we do a LOT of custom, ground up, rebuilding of old cars and bikes. We've found the best media for us, and the most gentle on the metal is Soda blasting. Does a great job without any pitting of the metals.

Soda blasting is an alternative form of paint removal. As well as being environmentally friendly, soda blasting is surface- friendly. Soda blasting does, however, leave a thin film of white powder dust on the surface being cleaned. The process can utilize existing sand-blasting equipment, but equipment designed specifically for soda blasting is gaining market share due to the increase of popularity.

Definition
Soda blasting is the use of bicarbonate of soda, also known as baking soda, in conjunction with compressed air for the removal of paint, rust or any other coating. The process is abrasive, but relatively gentle, and can be used on virtually any surface.
History
The process of soda blasting was developed in the 1980s, specifically to clean the Statue of Liberty without causing any harm to her exterior. Due to the success of that project, as well as the other benefits soda blasting offers, it has gained in popularity over the years.
Benefits
Soda blasting does not damage the surface being cleaned. It also removes grease and other debris. This process can be used to clean any surface, refinish wood furniture or remove paint from metal objects. Additionally, the film remaining after soda blasting treatment is completed inhibits the formation of rust on metal for several months after treatment.
Comparisons
Other methods historically used to remove paint and other coatings include sand, glass, aluminum, coal, steel, walnut shells and corn husks. Inorganic methods are extremely harsh, but effective. They remove surface coatings and rust but can damage surfaces with the heat produced by the friction when the substance strikes the surface coating. Organic methods, such as walnut shells, are less harsh, but are less effective. Organic methods are also ineffective at getting into small crevices, and can leave paint or rust behind in tiny cracks in the surface. Soda blasting, however, is extremely effective, cleans surfaces completely without leaving any trace of paint, rust, or other coating behind, and does not scratch or warp the surface during or after application.
Considerations
Soda blasting reduces all surface coatings to powder. Due to this effect, it may appear that no clean up is necessary. Toxins may exist in the coating that has been removed, however, so it is necessary to ensure that all residual dust from the treatment has been swept up and disposed of properly.

 

Hate to hijack the thread, but I will also soon be in the same boat and have never blasted or sprayed anything. I'm down to getting the front wheel and forks off, and then the frame will be completely bare and ready to strip and refinish. What do you recommend for cleaning the residue? Simple soap and water or some sort of chemical? Obviously with the likelihood that there are toxins in the paint residue, proper ventilation and breather apparatus are appropriate as well? Would you recommend this practice for stripping an engine or should I stick to chemical strippers? Thanks, I figured I'd ask since someone else asked the question, but I'll soon be in the same boat!

 

Benefits In Waste Disposal
In most non-hazardous applications, the residue from blasting with Soda Blast Media can be rinsed into sanitary drains or sewers, which flush the residue to a water treatment facility, greatly reducing the clean up time. Sodium bicarbonate is actually beneficial to waste water treatment systems. For industrial treatment systems, where chemical neutralization is a major cost in water treatment, Soda blast media can often save significant dollars in waste treatment.

 

I was considering soda, but I think you made up my mind for me

Does grit make a big difference? Harbor Freight carries 50 lb bags of "medium" and "extra large". Also, should I install an inline air dryer between the compressor and the blasting pod?

 

Like any media, it depends on the job. I would think medium (whatever the particular company calls medium) would be fine. Think of it as buying sandpaper which comes in different grits.

Let me back up on something though, if you have HEAVY oxidation, soda may not clean it that well. Aluminum Oxide is one of the safer medians for removing heavy rust. Most of the units we work on have surface oxidation rather than hard core rust. Sand is still the best median for heavy rust, but it also plays havoc on the surface you're working.

It's a good idea to install an in-line air dryer as the moisture created by the decompressing air can cause your abrassive to gum up.

Personally rather than making all the investment, it might be better to take the parts to an experienced media blaster and let him make the decisions. We send some of our work out for that reason.

 

Do you have any ideas or suggestions for aluminum parts or the engine? Some type of media or stick to the chemical strippers?

 

Fode140, I use alcohol or brake cleaner to clean the metal. Soap and water would be ok if you are going to rinse with the before mentioned materials. You do not want to use just soap and water as the introduction of moisture on the freshly cleaned surface invites the moisture to remain trapped in the surface porosity (really common with ferrous metals and aluminum). This will lead to adhesion problems when painting and the potential for rust to start all over again.
POR15 sells a metal treatment called Metal Ready that preps the surface and leaves a zinc phosphate coating that promotes good bonding of paint to the surface. Check out the various materials POR 15 has to offer at their website http://www.por15.com/.
Stereo, always a good idea to put in a moisture filter. If you can swing it, buy an air conditioning/dessicator system to put between your blasting cabinet and the compressor. Dry air is best, plain and simple.

 

Here's my .02 worth...wich is only worth about .0085 now days....

Soda blasting is ideal for aluminum and engine parts for a couple reasons.
#1 The soda won't 'bite' into the aluminum like a harsher media might.
#2 Since blasting with soda doesn't generate heat like sand or glass does, it's ideal for cleaning oily or greasy engine parts since it won't melt and smear the oil/grease around.

I used my soda blaster for cleaning my engine and it worked great. Just make sure you securely cover/plug any hole you don't want the soda getting into. After I blasted my engine I used a scotch brite pad and scuffed everything, using compressed air to clean everything as I progressed. Large areas I used a degreaser/cleaner called prep-all (you can get it at Auto-zone) Can't tell you how it holds up since I still have to get all the replacement gaskets to put her back together , then into the bike.... It looks good so far though


As far as your frame goes... I started blasting my frame and gave up after about 30 min...I found, for me, it was cheaper and easier to send it to a powder coating place that did it all - strip and pc - for $175 . Saved me a butt-load of time and hassle, plus I know the frame won't scratch as easily as paint when I start re-assembling everything....

 

Mad_Bohemian

Man that thing looks GREAT! Makes me want to pull mine just too paint it! Hmmmmmm nah I'm to old to do that on a whim. LOL

 

MB get a piece of Toughened Glass and some rubber stops cut to size and you have got yourself one killer coffee table.Looks magic.
Checked out your gallery that VT500 looks good too.

 

Thanks guys..
Good idea Gunna...don't think the wife would go for it though 8)

 

MY GOD! That is gorgeous! I can't wait until mine looks like that! What are you using to polish all of the polished areas (ribs on valve covers, engine covers, etc)?

 

On the valve covers I took a rubber sanding block and some 1000grit and carefully wet sanded the 'YICS' and the ribs. I tried sanding the ends of the cooling fins but I could not get a consistent width line from rib to rib. So I gave up on that idea...

Sorry Stereomind...didn't mean to hijack your thread....

 

it's all good! ...sweet looking motor, too.

I found out that my neighbor can blast the frame and the swingarm, so all I have to do is spray it. I will probably have to have someone else blast the engine... my compressor can't keep up :-(

oh well, it works good enough to do all the small parts...

 

Wyldman,
Thanks for this info.
I have an ALO2 blaster and fire black beauty through it.
What tip size will i need for, say, medium soda?
And where do you find the most inexpensive soda in, say, 50 poundish quantities?

 

Buddy that's the 60 million dollar question. LOL I've seen them change tips several times in the middle of projects. Just remember the smaller you go the more pressure you'll have. Sorry but that's about all I can tell you. As for where to buy, we have a local supplier about 200 yards from us.

 

All together now...Harbor Freight.....

 

:?:

Who exactly is Harbor Freight? I keep hearing folks on the forum talk about them, but I've never heard of them. :?:

 

Lookie here. It's only the best place to get cheap tools and supplies... Not the highest quality stuff, but the price is right.

 

Cool, thanks.