wheel bng mystery, and fork tube bafflement.....

Where o where is that Haynes manual? Jeez. My young friend, who owns the bike, ordered the CD but that hasnt arrived as of yet. The story thus far:
I replaced the seriously hammered strng hd bngs in my friends 81xj Seca. Worst I ever saw, replaced them w/ tapered rollers. As the bike sat of 15 years, I thought Id repack the fr. wh. bngs. I pried out the seals, carefully, & the grease had, indeed, become waxy, & one bng didnt turn freely, even tho there was no corrosion present. So, I go to remove the bngs- ball bearings in races, not tapered rollers as Im used to and....for the life of me, I cant figure how the heck to get them out. No snap retaining ring, it looks like a press fit. Well, thats dumb, but, but? how you get them out w/o destroying them. Thats Q 1. Q2, I thought id drain the forks , clean them out, & refill, checking the spring in the process, a set of Prog. Susp. units not out of the question. Well, OK, theres a drain screw at the bottom of the leg, but when I pulled the rubber cap off the stanchion tube top I find...a recessed in? plug?- again, no obvious way to remove. ....wothell?
Any light this august list can cast my way will be appreciated....mutt, SD, CA.

 

the top plug has to be pushed down and then remove the small wire retaining ring and it should pop out. As for the bearings, on my82xj650 maxim I just drove the out. But I was going to install new so I didn't care to mess them up. If you don't want to mess them up be sure to hit on the outer most part of the bearing not on the center, or you will surely tear them up. As far as I know they should be a pressed fit and should drive out, maybe someone installed them using bearing mount or loctite.

 

Well, thats what I cant figure- I cant bring force to bear to push a bearing out: to do that, Id have to be able to strike the outer race from behind...cant get behind it, as the other bng & the (i assume) distancing piece of pipe between the bngs in the cast wheel blocks any work fron that side. .

Looking at the bng which dosnt turn freely, I find its actually either jammed w/ debris or notched....does someone have a pt# for those bngs??

Ha! I didnt see a round wire retainer in the forks...il go look now & pop it out....Thx, much...mutt

 

If you get a drift, you can slide it down inside the sleeve between the bearings and with slight leverage get to the bearing inner edge. Try to do this from both sides becouse I know one side gives easier access than the other )

 

Ah! But then you are applying force to the inner race, for all intents & purposes, destroying the bearing. Rats, I hoped to clean them & repack, if possible.
Well, Ill grind a good drift tip & try getting the obviously bad one out....no way to run a railroad, yask me....I got penetrating oil soaking those stanchion end plugs- cant see any wire retainer, & I assume the plug has a lesser radius at the top & the retainer is sitting below the top of the plug.....this is almost French in its oddness.....

 

yes you have to push down on the plug it will give about 1/2 an inch. then the wire retainer will be on the fork wall, remove it and the spring should push the plug out.
the ring will not be visible until the plug is pushed down.

I'll get the bearing #'s when I get home.
I think there (302KDD) but let me check for sure.
I have to look on my reciept.
I got mine from a local bearing distributor, I think with frieght they were still 31.00 USD

 

Thank you very much...this days post bought my long anticipated Haynes.
Before I button everything up, ill grind reliefs in that central distance piece to give better purchase on the bng inner race. Haynes says you can drive them out & repack them & reinstall, but by hammering on the inner race, you are putting flats in the ball bngs.....underwhelmed by the design here , I must say.

 

I know in the UK they are about £5 so maybe this is why

 

Fafnir Bearing# 302KDD
I paid 9.42 ea. !0.00USD shipping
I think you can also use a 6302 bearing
The yamaha part diagram says ( B6302Z )

 

Bearing Cross Reference

Go here and type in 6302. It will give you all the dimensions. You can check them against your old bearings for proper fit.

A 6302 is a 6302 is a 6302, doesn't matter who makes it, that's the whole point of bearing numbers. the "Z" just means it's a shielded bearing, i.e. it has a metal or metal-rubber cover over the balls to keep grit out of them, which, you may well imagine, comes in quite handy for wheel bearings. I'm a bit foggy right now, but you may need to order a double Z bearing to get shields on both sides. Just let the guy you order from know before you buy.

 

you chaps are "tits up" - Ill inform as to bng prices & so forth....mutt

 

hey with the shocks my tops are all rusty and stuck , i smacked them in a bit and they dont spring back up. looks like ill have to drill them out . is there anything under them that will get in the way if i drill a small hole in the middle of the cap so i can pull them out ? also is there anyway i can get the caps cheap. my local dealer here in Australia quoted $30 each cap lol
cheers brenton

 

let them soak w/ real penetrating oil- not wd 40....theyll free up, cheaper than new ones, by the sounds....

 

Mutt, salvation is not a possibility for your bearings if you wish to remove them. They are a pressed fit. Removal requires impact with the inner race. I'm sorry. Squirt a load of 90wt oil in there and try to turn them, but I'll wager this is an excercise in futility. New ones will have to be obtained (good idea to grab new seals too) before you begin the process (or your friends ride will sit awkwardly for a few days or weeks). Harbor Freight tools sells a bearing removal tool that is designed to remove these types of bearings. It is a pick and split collar affair that I have lusted after for years. Forget the exact name or number. I'll try to look it up for you soon. Good chance, given the signs of neglect you have mentioned, that the other bearings on the bike (rear, swing arm) are in a similar state of health. For safety's sake, I would very much take a look at the rest of them while your about it. Regards, Rob.

 

thank you very much for that heads up, its off to Harbour Frieght I go.
Its an odd, tpo me, way to set up wheel bearings: for instance, the distance piece. If the machining of the hub is off a few thou, & the spacer is off a few thou, then you are putting side load on the ball bearings. Only way to check is to build it up, if its off, then you have to destro a bng to fit shims/machine.....
Im surprised, since the machine seems so well thought out otherwise.....mutt

 

bought the wheel, finally, to a Yam shop & the guy had the bngs out 5 min. & 15 bucks later. Yam wanted over $30 for the same as replacements, I got German, double shielded replacements at a supply hse for $23/pr.
Theyre in the freezer now....now Ill look to see if the penetrating oil has freede the fork plugs up.
Thanks to all you folks fr yr input.....