Hello All! Thinking about buying a '82 650 SECA.....should

I?

I'm going to test drive a SECA tomorrow.

1982 650cc, newer Kenda Challenger tires, appears to be in good shape. 22k miles.

Why should I buy this bike?
What's so great about them?
How much should I pay?

Here it is...

 

Re: Hello All! Thinking about buying a '82 650 SECA.....sho

Josh, welcome to the site. You will love it here, lots of info & help. That bike looks mint great find. Now to answer your questions.

1. It looks like it only may need a little TLC to put on the road. They are absolutely fun bikes to ride. Cheaper & just as good or better than a new bike.
2. When tuned up & road/safety worthy they are fast & reliable.
3. Hard to say on price. What are they asking for it? If everything is as good as it looks $1500 probably wouldn't be to bad.

Things I would do before making offer,
1. check compression, should be ball park of 150 on each cyl.
2. Test ride if ppossible, runn it thru the gears
3. askabout maintenance records if any, did they do work themselves or have a shop do it.
4. check around your area to see what these bikes are selling for so you have an idea on price based on condition.

It looks really good in the picture so go slow & as cheap as you can get them to go. I have a maxim & they are truely great bikes. You won't be sorry if you get one.
Good Luck
Gregg

Oh yeah, if you do get it & have issues we are all here to help. And as I have experienced & seen, there is nothing that this forum can't help you get right.

 

The only problem i can see is that that bike has an aftermarket 4-1 exhaust and you might have clearance problems with the oil filter (canister sticking off the front of the engine behind the exhaust header) or the oil plug (bolt below the filter going into the oil pan).......Just something to keep in mind. I could be wrong it might have a 4-2 i cant see the other pipe from the angle of the picture and the angle of the header pipes looks like it has a 4-1

 

Re: Hello All! Thinking about buying a '82 650 SECA.....sho

Thanks!

Like what?

They're asking $1200.
I'm thinking $1000 would be perfect.

How do I test compression?
I'm fairly handy and very mechanical, but don't have much experience with motorcycles.

That's AWESOME! It's good to know there's some support to a first time bike owner.

Thanks again!

 

It does have the 4-1 exhaust.

The problem is that it may be hard to change the oil?
Have to remove the exhaust every time? :?:

He says everything else is pure stock.

 

More questions.....since I haven't ridden the thing yet....

How are they for taller riders? I'm 6'2".

More pics...

 

Re: Hello All! Thinking about buying a '82 650 SECA.....sho

i just picked up the same bike about 3 months ago. same size, same color.

It was looking much worse for wear over the years. i paid 325, probably have about a grand in it now.

new tires, new plugs, carb synching, new clutch handle, new exhaust, oil change, master cylinder rebuild, lots of little piddly things... the list goes on.

The list is dwindling now, and I've got 900 miles on it since 7/17.

BUY IT. It was my first, too. it's an awesome starter, not stupid fast, but definitely capable.

More comfortable than any newer bike, easier to work on, very quick, and easy to handle.

Oh, and I'm 6'1", and i don't feel cramped at all.

Joe

 

Welcome...

I'm a bit over 6'3", and I fit on my 750 Seca just fine (it's about the same size as the 650). You might consider a small windshield to keep the wind off your chest.

If you don't mind washing a bit of oil from the exhaust after the oil change, it's really not that big of a deal. I just spray my exhaust down with some carb cleaner before I pull the catch pan from underneath the bike.

You might consider replacing the fuse box (if it hasn't been done yet) but other than that, these bikes are damn near bulletproof.

 

Re: Hello All! Thinking about buying a '82 650 SECA.....sho

I would plop down $1000.00, clean lookin bike for sure. As for the exhaust you can always save up and get a used set of 4 into 1 or 4 into 2 that clear the oil filter and what not.
Oh ya and the parts are easy to find, well since I found this site at least for these XJ bikes.
Chacal here on these forums is a vendor, and has almost near every part you could need or want for these bikes.
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14561.html

 

Re: Hello All! Thinking about buying a '82 650 SECA.....sho

I'm really happy to hear all of this..... 8)
Especially, that it's fairly easy to work on.

I've looked at 3 bikes so far, a Silverwing, 82 Maxim 750, and 80 Honda CB650C.
I liked the Silverwing, but too much for me....doen't really need the touring capabilities.
I liked the Maxim, but the guy was charging too much and it had a bunch of issues.
I liked the CB650C, but it needed a lot of work. no thanks.

I'm hoping this SECA works out......seems like it's a notch above most bikes of that era.

How is it 2up?

 

I have been searching the forums for which windshields work best.
Trying to decide if I want something taller or not?

Thanks for the cleaning tip! :idea:

What's wrong with the fuse box?

 

Well... I could tell you that the stock XJ fuse box is hellspawn, that it eats baby kittens and steals your lunch money 8O ...but it will suffice to say that it's a 25+ year old piece of equipment that is very prone to corrosion. The fuse contacts get brittle with age.. As soon as you try to bend them so they make better contact, they break off, potentially leaving you stranded.

Bad things, man.

Good news is that the replacement boxes are widely available and not all that hard to install.

 

Thanks.
I'll be sure to check out the fuse box. (cheap fix in the link XJbull81 posted)

What's so great about these bikes.....I'm reading nothing but praise everywhere?

Is it because they're built well?

 

Re: Hello All! Thinking about buying a '82 650 SECA.....sho

The first passenger I've had was last night, and just a short spin around a couple city blocks. That said, first impression was great. It was a little tough getting out of the yard, my buddy weighs a little more than me, I'm only about 145 lbs, but it handled very well on the street, I could barely feel the extra weight(except a little bit when stopping). The seat is plenty big for it, and I'm sure there would be plenty of power to get up and overtake at 70 mph.

working on this bike has been a learning experience for sure, but there have been faqs (mostly with pics) at every step of the way, including but not limited to:

$6 carb synch setup
master cyl rebuild pictorial
valve clearance shimming

plus that thing's in beautiful condition already. you will not be disappointed.

joe

 

If you can get one that clean for a $Grand you stole it.

Awesome "standard" bikes; probably one of the best ever produced; too bad we only got them here in the USA for ONE year.

I'm 6'5" and do fine on the 550 Seca (with different handlebars.) I'm a chain-drive apostle, there's no accounting for taste. If the 650 were chain drive I'd probably have two of those.

Expect to spend some money getting it into tip-top shape; one you do, it's really young yet and will provide a lot of enjoyable miles. DO expect to do most of your own work; finding shops to do COMPETENT work on these old bikes is a bit difficult.

 

Anything to look for when checking out the bike for the first time? Problems exclusive to the SECAs?

Seems like photos always make motorcycles appear smaller then they really are..... 8O

I figure I'll see what kind of maintenance the guy has been maintaining.....IF I end up bringing it home, should I have a mechanic check it out?
There's a local shop that's been very good to me so far....offered to check over any local bike buying prospects for me. Sadly, the Seca is too far away for that. I was referred to them by my Boss....since he's only had good experiences with them too.

I have been saving for a bike for a while now....plus I've sold nearly half of my guitar collection....so I'm prepared for those upkeep costs. :wink:

In the future....I hope to utilize the service manual and this site to help me do my own adjustments, maintenance and repair.

 

Make sure you can go through all the gears, nice and smooth.

If the guy lets you.... bring a 13/16" spark plug socket, a medium extension and a rachet... Pull the plugs one at a time and look at the insulators. If they're bone white, and the plugs are obviously not brand new, the bike may have been running lean. If the insulators and the electrodes are peppered with tiny black or aluminum colored specks, there may be some more serious engine problems caused by overheating. If the plugs are sooty black, it's probably ok, just running rich. If they're oily-black, there may be a potential problem with valve guide seals or piston rings.


Let it warm up to full temp and check for things like racing idle, stumbling or hesitation at various throttle ranges. These issues usually indicate vacuum leaks or carburetor problems (which you should be able to handle yourself).

Make sure the bike tracks straight at low speeds (around 25-45mph) and the front end doesn't wobble.

There's just not all that much that can go wrong with these bikes if they've been taken care of... It's mostly little things that are aggravated by age, like electrical gremlins, and miscellaneous rubber bits giving out. If you decide to get the bike, expect to double check a whole big list of stuff (which we'll happily provide). Do not believe a single word the PO says. It's incredibly rare to get the real scoop on the bike's history from someone that's trying to get rid of it.

I'm sure there's more.....

Good luck!

 

I built a tire chock for the trailer tonight. I'm getting fairly excited.

Thanks for the tips stereomind. I've got them memorized.

Tomorrow night is the night.......I'm so in love with the bike.
(but I not so in love I'll buy a turd)

 

Re: Hello All! Thinking about buying a '82 650 SECA.....sho



What happened to the ignition switch? It is supposed to be right under the instruments. In the picture you can see the electrical portion of it but the lock part is missing. Either you turn it with a pair of pliers/screwdriver or someone rigged another ignition elsewhere.

I would be VERY weary of this bike. It looks like someone busted the entire top section off in order to get around the fork lock feature or to start it without a key. That means the chances for it being stolen or a recovery are very high and the chance of it having keys are slim to none.

Whichever idiot mutilated the ignition didnt have the knowledge to remove the two allen screws that retain it. A monkey could remove the two screws. It also means that the owner has absolutely no pride in the bike and doesnt particularly care for it. The correct ignition is about $25 on ebay...hardly an expense at all for the current owner. If you do go look at the bike I'd seriously advise that you look it over with a fine tooth comb. Chances are very high that important maintenance was neglected...hell I'd be surprised if the oil got changed. Dont forget that the ignition key goes to more than just the ignition. It also goes to the left sidecover and helmet lock.

 

Good call.

I emailed the guy about it.....he says "the ignition switch located to under the seat which is locked"

Huh?

 

good catch on organizedinsanity's part. Why in the world would someone do that?

 

Call the DMV with the VIN, they should be able to provide some information.

It does seem almost too good to be true, in that condition at that price.

 

They'll just verify that it is what he says it is?
And provide information on the bike's history?

 

The response....sounds kosher.....weird....but kosher.

"prevent theft...this bike was my sons while he was in school in Madison in the late 80's
the parking was open under apt building. When it was new this was a "hot" bike and high on the steal it list. The switch was moved under the seat after a failed theft. after the switch was move there never was a problem, if you can't find it you can't steal it....
Clean title, there is no device to lock the forks, there is a after market alarm and a service tech manual"

 

Re: Hello All! Thinking about buying a '82 650 SECA.....sho

Should be fairly easy to get the ignition back up to the correct place, these guys here can guide you through it.
Dont know if you have picked up a shop manual for this bike yet but they are a life saver, and will save some angry tantrums and tears :lol:

 

I'll have to actually see the ignition modification....I'm wondering how it's mounted? Do you need one key for the ignition and another to open the seat?
It's just a module, wire harness, and a pair of bolts....can't be too bad.
Did these bikes have a fork lock feature?


Sounds like the guy has the service manual....so that's a big help.

 

yes they have a fork lock from the factory but it is controlled with the ignition switch when it is mounted where it is supposed to. Im sure you can get the fork loxck to work again you just need to remount the ignition switch in its original location.

 

I was a little worried at first.....but I feel much better about it now that I know the story.... and since I can fix it if I need/want to.

 

I asked about the keys......

"one key opens the gas tank and seat lock ...to restore the switch to the original position you would need to run a wire to a switch in the original position....But this current arrangement is pretty slick"

So the original ignition must have gotten damaged in the theft attempt.....and replaced with an aftermarket one.

 

Last update:

"I understand some kid tried to rip it off but got caught, it hasn't been run in a week or so, it never has been a problem to start when cold ...need to use full choke though and premium fuel. This bike requires a new battery and spark plugs every couple of years, probably could use new plugs. ...oil should be changed once a year. It wouldn't hurt to add some Sea foam to keep the carbs clean since around here they sit all winter"

 

Buy it already willya? Do a compression test if possible, but if it runs strongly you're probably fine.

You're going to spend a few bucks bringing it up to snuff but so far it sounds like there are no "deal breakers" in there...

 

^^definately, the guy sounds like he knows how to maintain a bike....whether he actually did maintain it is another story but you will never be able to answer that question 100%. I mean look at my bike the oil hadnt been changed for at least 5 years before i got it and it runs like a champ!

 

How does one test the compression?

I'm at work......eagerly waiting for it to be over! I'm about 85% sure I'm going to buy it.
Sucks.....it's rainy today....not the best for test driving a bike.

 

With a compression tester. If you know anyone with a decent set of automotive tools they probably have one you could borrow.

They're commonly available at your local auto parts too, usually for around $20-$30. A worthwhile investment.

To actually perform the test: Remove the spark plugs and unplug the TCI (ignition) module. Screw the compression tester into one cylinder; with the throttle held wide open, spin the motor until the pressure on the gauge stops rising. Usually only a dozen revs or so. Record the reading.
Move to the next cylinder, repeat.
"Nominal" compression for the 650s is around 150lb if I remember correctly. The actual reading isn't as important as the comparative readings, they should all be within about 10% (or less) of each other. One cylinder horribly lower than the others can indicate a burnt or misadjusted valve or worn rings, or worse in some cases.
You can further diagnose a low-compression cylinder by adding a couple tablespoons of motor oil and re-testing. If the compression comes back, it's rings; if not then it's someting else, usually a burnt or stuck valve.

I passed on a 400 twin earlier this year because it pushed 155+ on one side and barely 120 on the other; and I didn't feel like an engine rebuild right now.

 

I probably won't be able to do that tonight.....

....but that's good info for future testing.

I'm probably going to have to take a partial risk on the bike.
Since I will only be able to gauge it by how it runs and the plugs.

 

Make sure you examine the ignition key setup real closely. I will about bet that whoever put the aftermarket switch on under the seat also hacked up the wiring harness. How well the ignition was relocated will be a good indication of how well the bike was maintained. I wouldnt shy away from the bike only because of the aftermarket switch, unless it was truely a hack job.

Another thing that concerns me is the part about the guy saying the bike hasnt ran in a week or so. Its almost if he knows the bike is going to have problems starting and running so he throws that little explanation out there. A week is nothing for a properly running bike. If it is in good
running shape and the carbs arent screwed the bike should fire right up and run correctly right off the bat. If it takes a while to start and has any hesitation or cutting in/out either walk away of offer him $500.

The owner says it "probably could use new plugs". To me that seems to be another indication that the bike is going to have problems starting/ running.

And to top it off...he openly admits that the bike was not properly winterized. The part about "wouldnt hurt to put some seafoam in to keep the carbs clean" means that he is aware there are problems with the carbs from sitting with gas in them all winter. If the bike ran and drove fine and didnt have any issues he would not say it "may need new plugs and seafoam".

I say unless the bike starts and runs perfect and the ignition was properly modified...Either low ball him or run far far away. You have to ask yourself, do you want a project bike or one you can hop on and ride? And if you do want a project, do you want something that has already been "rigged" previously. You also have to ask yourself if you have the knowledge and paitence to work on an old bike.

 

most prospective sellers (honest ones anyway) aren't put off by a request for a pre-deal compression test. I tell anyone whose bike I'm interested in that I will need to perform a compression test or I'm walking away. Some have seemed surprised; one guy didn't know wtf I was talking about, but no one ever said no.

It does sound to me as though this seller is "masking" an issue; but it is probably less of an issue than HE thinks it is, especially if he's not XJ-experienced. Sounds like good old grubby carbs.

 

Thanks.

I figure if the switch is duct taped in there...... :lol:

His comments about how it starts and runs.......was in response to my request of making sure it was cold when I got there. I asked "Can you please make sure the bike is cold when I get there, I'd like to see how it starts"
Thus his candid remarks.

I'm not sure what to think of the other comments......part of me thinks like you......this bike isn't going to be in top notch shape. The other part of me thinks....it was his son's bike, and the son just don't drive it much anymore. Along with the fact that the plugs haven't been changed in a while.

For $1k, I'm willing to clean the carbs or whatever needs to be done.

The 3 other bikes I looked at were around $1k too.....and they weren't nearly in as good of shape at this bike. Yet I agree.....if I notice anything unusual I'm going to offer less. He originally wanted $1200 for it. 8O

 

20 mins....until I leave.

Wish me luck!

 

Re: Hello All! Thinking about buying a '82 650 SECA.....sho

some expired gasoline and a bit of gunk buildup will do that. I was talking to the shop guy down at cafe racer in kansas city, he said that with all the ethanol and other crap they put in gasoline, almost every carbeurated bike he's run into the past few years has been a tough start after even only a couple weeks.

Call me impulsive, but i still think that bike's a steal for a grand.

For $1000, I'd expect to have a good carb cleaning and a little TLC ahead of me.

I WOULDN'T, however, expect to see it looking so immaculate. I mean, I'm sure he cleaned it up to sell, but after 27 years and 22000 miles, the exterior's in pretty good shape to have been that far with someone that wasn't particular about their stuff.

The compression test, though, is a good idea. Call me foolhardy, but I'd say if you've got compression, go for it. I don't think you'll ever look back.

 

Re: Hello All! Thinking about buying a '82 650 SECA.....sho

First off, I'm ready for the big long list of things to check, now that I bought it. 8)

Well, it started right up....and ran good when I got there. The engine was cold. I noticed that he did manipulate the choke until it warmed up. It was his son's bike, and it has been sitting for a while.....

I think it may need a carb cleaning and adjustment. Since the condition of the bike seemed to be superior to most in the price range, I couldn't resist. After reading this site for almost two weeks.....it just felt like the right thing to do. I was probably impulsive.

My plan is to replace the sparkplugs, and run some seafoam through it. If that doesn't clear up the issues (my xjbikes intuition says it probably won't). I'm going to take it in to the shop. Any ideas on how much something like that costs?

Over the winter, I plan on dealing with the ignition switch and whatever else that needs to be done. I will admit that I have no idea right now.

I took it out for a ride when I got home, and realized that the choke has to be on just a little bit for it to idle properly. It also backfires just a little bit. Not gun shot loud, but when down shifting or lowering the RPMs quickly it makes a slight *puck puck* type noise.

The body condition is good. A few scuffs here and there....nothing major.

I don't mean to offend anyone who's advice I didn't take. :wink:

 

If the backfiring on decel isnt super loud or annoying I wouldnt worry too much about it. Most bikes do it from the factory but the stock exhaust is quiet enough that many dont notice it. When you install an aftermarket exhaust it just makes it more noticable. If the bike is running lean it will make it worse but its pretty much just the nature of the beast. Hell just about every bike I've owned has done it. I'd drive it around a bit, pull the plugs, and post pics up here. You are looking for a light brown color.

As far as the carbs go, running will help them more than anything. If you buy seafoam I'd spray it in the carb intakes. It cleans out carbon which will lower compression and lessen the chance of pinging. I have poured it in the tank a time or two with absolutely no effects. It is a darn good de-carb though.

Having to mess with the choke goes hand in hand with most carb'd motorcycles. Xj's tend to have a real lumpy idle and chances are it will idle better after you ride it for awhile.

You mentioned taking the bike to a shop and having them work on the carbs. Unless the shop specializes in vintage japanese bikes I wouldnt even bother. Most shops wont touch bikes this old and the ones that do generally do more harm than good when it comes to carbs. I dont believe anyone on this forum have had any success with shops working on their carbs. I'd advise that you either tackle the job yourself (there are a few great walkthroughs on the site), or see if there is a forum member close to you willing to do the work for you or assist you. Like they say, no one will as much care and precision with your carbs as you will. Where are you located?

 

Oh yeah and dont worry about offending anyone with your decision. I think I am with everyone when I am glad that you saved another one of these beasts from the junkyard.

You will find that most everyone on this forum is knowledgeable and more than eager to help. If you have any questions or need some insight dont hesitate to ask.

And most of all welcome to XJbikes and the world of all that is XJ.

 

organizedinsanity took the words outta my mouth.

Why do you wanna take it to the shop? They'll just do a half-hearted job and you will end up having to learn how to do it yourself anyway, so......

Fly XJBikes.com -- Save money and learn a thing or two! :-D

 

Not too bad as is, but just not used to it I guess.
It does have an aftermarket 4-1 pipe....so..... :arrow:

I'll pull the plugs tomorrow.

Yeah, it wasn't running as smoothly after I had gotten it home. I may have not let it warm up properly or backed the choke off prematurely. It was kind of chuggy and hard to keep running in my driveway. On the road, it died at a stop sign.
After I tweaked the choke a little......it was fine.

It seems to be a little doggy too.......I can feel that the power is there, but it's not smooth.

I knew it would need work when I bought it.

[/quote]You mentioned taking the bike to a shop and having them work on the carbs. Unless the shop specializes in vintage japanese bikes I wouldnt even bother. Most shops wont touch bikes this old and the ones that do generally do more harm than good when it comes to carbs. I dont believe anyone on this forum have had any success with shops working on their carbs. I'd advise that you either tackle the job yourself (there are a few great walkthroughs on the site), or see if there is a forum member close to you willing to do the work for you or assist you. Like they say, no one will as much care and precision with your carbs as you will. Where are you located?[/quote]

... going to call the shop tomorrow, just to see what they say.

I'm located in central WI. Fairly handy with a wrench....but don't have any carb experience. I probably lack most of the tools I would need too. I have a tool box with a hodgepodge of tools....since I work on my SAAB myself. I suppose I have almost all metric tools. 8)

 

While I've been reading threads for a week straight....I don't really know where to start.

I'd love to do it myself, but I'd also like to ride the damn thing.

 

If you work on a SAAB then the bike will be a walk in the park. I am a mechanic and avoid them whenever I possibly can.

The carbs require a few special tools but none are terribly expensive. They are not hard at all but require patience and care.

Living in WI, you should have quite a few forum members that live close to you. I'm sure one of them would be more than willing to help you revive your carbs.

 

I haven't done anything too in-depth with SAAB, but have done a lot of minor work on them. Mines a '99 9-3....which is the last of the pre-GM SAABs.

I've read through the syncing threads and all that. Is that where I should start? Carb cleaning and syncing?

 

Right now I would change plugs, oil& filter, differential oil, air filter, check the valves, and ride the crap out of the bike. Chances are that it will run much better the longer you ride it. The warm season isnt the time to be building carbs, wait till its cold and the bike is sitting. You dont want to be rushed when building the carbs because you may have to order parts for them. Another benefit of waiting till winter is that if you choose not to do the work yourself, bike shops are much more willing to work on older bikes during the off season. They will likely be hurting for work so they will probably be more reasonable price wise also.

 

Good call.

Should I be able to find all of the parts I need at my local auto parts supplier?
Or would it be smarter to order them online?

I'd rather wait....I want to ride the damn thing.

There an archive of "how to" threads?
Like I said, I'm mechanical, but don't have the foggiest on how to check valves.