How to torque front and rear tire/rim

I've owned my 1983 Maxim XJ750 for about nine years. I really haven't done much work to the bike in the past. I recently removed the rear and front tire to get the tires replaced. I realized when I went to install them that nothing ever really torques down. On the front there is the main castle nut and the "pinch" nut. I just installed the pin and bolted both the calipers on. I then torqued the castle nut enough to get a cotter pin in then I tightened down the pinch nut. The tire seems to spin freely, but the spacer between the rim and fork seems a touch loose.

The rear tire is another beast all together. If someone could tell me the proper sequence for doing these both it would be grealy appreciated. I really don't want to mess this up!

 

I've got a full range torque wrench set if anything gets torqued to a value.

 

front wheel spindle 77 lbf lb
spindle pinch bolt 14
rear wheel spindle 77
torque arm bolts 14
brake arm pinch bolt 14

 

thanks for the torque values. Can someone tell me a step by step with the order of how to torque these things? I can see how they will obviously move components around depending on the order (if you do the pinch first then the castle nut you will pull the torque arms together).

 

Sorry to keep posting on my own thread, but I really want to fix this tonight so I can go riding with a friend.
Lets assume I'm working on the front rim. I have the one brake caliper off so I can slide the new tire in. I get the tire in then I put the brake capiler back over the rotor and bolt it down. I put the spacer on the "passenger" side between the rim and fork post. I slide the pin all the way through the forks and rims. In theory this pin can go all the way through and fall out the other side.
So I figured that the brake calipers with the pads on the rotors have "centered" the rim where it should be. So I tighted the castle nut untill I could get a cotter pin into the hole. I then tighned the pinch nut to prevent the pin from slidding the other direction. However, the spacer seems loose between the rim and fork. Did I do something wrong?

Its been awhile since I've done the rear rim, so I'm like some step by step advice with it as well.

I don't understand how you can get 77 foot pounds of torque with the castle nut on the front because it would simply just pull the pin through. I could see this maybe working if you tighened the pinch pin bolt first. That way the pin would not slide as you tighened the castle nut.
I really need to buy the Hanes manual I think.

 

The axle won't pull all the way through, it will tighten against the speedometer drive housing.

The "axle assembly" axle, speedo drive, wheel, spacer, etc., are able to shift slightly right-left in the forks so that they get lined up without causing the forks to bind. They form a "sandwich" that stops against the RH fork leg.

Snug everything, then back off the pinch bolts (still snug, not loose.)

Bounce the front end a few times. Stick a phillips screwdriver or appropriately-sized bar through the hole to hold the axle and tighten it up but not all the way. Bounce the front end a couple more times, then tighten and torque your axle nut. Then tighten and torque the pinch bolts.

Can't help you with the rear, my XJs are chain drive.

 

Thanks Big Fitz. I appreciate the info. I didn't think about the speedo housing. I played with the big pin with the rim off and was able to slide it all the way through the fork. Thanks for the step by step on the front. That will help.
Hold on a second (I just thought of this). You are saying the pin's shoulder should hit the speedo? That means the pin must be insertered via the drivers side? I am thinking mine is backwards (I disassembled it like this, but who's to say it was done right last time).
Do you insert the pin from the drivers side or passenger side first? This would totally make sense on why I'm confused as to why this thing doesn't tighten down!


PS~ Doesn't 77 foot pounds sound like alot? I torque my car's lugs to 85 foot pounds. I just want to make sure there isn't something lost in a conversion translation here.

front wheel spindle 77 lbf lb
spindle pinch bolt 14
rear wheel spindle 77
torque arm bolts 14
brake arm pinch bolt 14

 

Sorry, you're right, I was giving "general" advice.

I just checked the fiche.

Yours does go in from the other side, but the principal is the same; one fork leg is part of the "sandwich," the axle is free to slide horizontally in the other. In your case the shoulder on the axle pin bottoms against the spacer, the speedo drive is on the other side.

Torque spec double-check will have to come from somebody with a 750 book, but it sounds about right.

 

Thanks for the update. That makes more sense now. I appreciate the quick response. I feel like I can get the front done now with no issues. Now if anyone knows how to do the rear properly with a shaft drive it would be appreciated.
I think it should be straight forward, but any advice is appreciated.

PS~Where did that neat graphic come from?

One more question/concern. I'm at work right now or else I'd try to torque my front castle nut to 77 ft/lbs. When I removed the cotter pin when I took the front rim off I was able to remove the castle nut by hand. I'm curious if I torque it to 77 ft/lbs if the hole in the pin will be past the holes on the castle nut. Again, I haven't tried this, so it still might work perfect. It just seems to be that there is enough play in the spacer still the castle nut will pull past the hole in the pin making the cotter pin worthless unless the nut really backs off. I may be crazy though.

 

The castle nut shouldn't go past the hole, if it does that's probably a good sign that something is missing. I found that once their snug they tighten up pretty quick so your probably ok.

Edit: You can find the parts diagrams at http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx.

Great spot

 

77 ft/lbs is about right, the 750 Seca has the same torque specs.

 

Ok guys. The process given for the front rim worked perfect. It is now torqued at 77 ft/lbs and everything still spins freely and plenty of room to add the cotter pin.

NOW...

The rear is a different story. I need help from anyone with a shaft set up. I undid the castle nut and the pinch bolt to repeat the 77 ft/lbs process on the rear. As soom as I was giving it any torque (maybe 20ish) the rear tire was nearly impossible to turn and starting to beyond where the castle pin and cotter pin would touch. Obviously the rear does not get the same process. I just kept backing it off till the rear wheel spun freely for now. A real set of instructions is greatly needed.

 

you have a small spacer missing, look at the exploded view on the yam web site. YAMAHA PARTS

 

Well I tore the rear tire off in an attempt to find out my issue. I'm not sure if I'm any closer. That picture isn't exactly clear off the website. It seems all the spacers are in the tire (solid connection in rim). The only thing I don't see is #2, but I think that is a subassembly that is really there. Anyways. Took a bunch of pictures. Tell me what you think.

http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa26 ... r65/XJ750/

 

Yes, number two is inside the wheel between the bearings.
What about #24 and #25 are they there?
Haynes Manual is a big help, it gives you step by step instructions on this.
Although it usually says assemble in reverse order.
:lol:

 

I'm sorry about the pictures. Its being funny about uploading. There should be 6 when I'm all done.
yes I do have 24 and 25. I hope I have 25, that's the castle nut. Did you mean a different number?
I put it all back together with some bearing grease (careful not to get any on brake pads). Same deal. I can tell when the system gets snug (I can feel the solid joint) but a few turns past that and the rear tire starts to drag somehow. When it starts to drag really bad there would be no contact between the castle nut and the cotter pin (aka down the threads farther than I think it should be. Is there a spacer that goes between the tires driverside bearing and the frames rear gear area? This seems to be to me the only place I could imagine friction starting.

Finally got all the pictures working. I should have cleaned up the bearing surfaces before I took pictures. I did clean them up good and put hi temp bearing grease on them before I put it all back together.

http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa26 ... r65/XJ750/

 

NO you are correct it is the castle nut.
I was thinking it was the short spacer but, that's on the front.
Is the wheel seating into the splines of the differential properly.
That's all I can think of.

 

I think it is #3 that is missing.

 

Will the bearings turn freely or are they completely shot?

 

hey bikebandit has brand new front rims available!.....only $922 lol