How to torque front and rear tire/rim

I've owned my 1983 Maxim XJ750 for about nine years. I really haven't done much work to the bike in the past. I recently removed the rear and front tire to get the tires replaced. I realized when I went to install them that nothing ever really torques down. On the front there is the main castle nut and the "pinch" nut. I just installed the pin and bolted both the calipers on. I then torqued the castle nut enough to get a cotter pin in then I tightened down the pinch nut. The tire seems to spin freely, but the spacer between the rim and fork seems a touch loose.

The rear tire is another beast all together. If someone could tell me the proper sequence for doing these both it would be grealy appreciated. I really don't want to mess this up!

 

I've got a full range torque wrench set if anything gets torqued to a value.

 

front wheel spindle 77 lbf lb
spindle pinch bolt 14
rear wheel spindle 77
torque arm bolts 14
brake arm pinch bolt 14

 

thanks for the torque values. Can someone tell me a step by step with the order of how to torque these things? I can see how they will obviously move components around depending on the order (if you do the pinch first then the castle nut you will pull the torque arms together).

 

Sorry to keep posting on my own thread, but I really want to fix this tonight so I can go riding with a friend.
Lets assume I'm working on the front rim. I have the one brake caliper off so I can slide the new tire in. I get the tire in then I put the brake capiler back over the rotor and bolt it down. I put the spacer on the "passenger" side between the rim and fork post. I slide the pin all the way through the forks and rims. In theory this pin can go all the way through and fall out the other side.
So I figured that the brake calipers with the pads on the rotors have "centered" the rim where it should be. So I tighted the castle nut untill I could get a cotter pin into the hole. I then tighned the pinch nut to prevent the pin from slidding the other direction. However, the spacer seems loose between the rim and fork. Did I do something wrong?

Its been awhile since I've done the rear rim, so I'm like some step by step advice with it as well.

I don't understand how you can get 77 foot pounds of torque with the castle nut on the front because it would simply just pull the pin through. I could see this maybe working if you tighened the pinch pin bolt first. That way the pin would not slide as you tighened the castle nut.
I really need to buy the Hanes manual I think.

 

The axle won't pull all the way through, it will tighten against the speedometer drive housing.

The "axle assembly" axle, speedo drive, wheel, spacer, etc., are able to shift slightly right-left in the forks so that they get lined up without causing the forks to bind. They form a "sandwich" that stops against the RH fork leg.

Snug everything, then back off the pinch bolts (still snug, not loose.)

Bounce the front end a few times. Stick a phillips screwdriver or appropriately-sized bar through the hole to hold the axle and tighten it up but not all the way. Bounce the front end a couple more times, then tighten and torque your axle nut. Then tighten and torque the pinch bolts.

Can't help you with the rear, my XJs are chain drive.

 

Thanks Big Fitz. I appreciate the info. I didn't think about the speedo housing. I played with the big pin with the rim off and was able to slide it all the way through the fork. Thanks for the step by step on the front. That will help.
Hold on a second (I just thought of this). You are saying the pin's shoulder should hit the speedo? That means the pin must be insertered via the drivers side? I am thinking mine is backwards (I disassembled it like this, but who's to say it was done right last time).
Do you insert the pin from the drivers side or passenger side first? This would totally make sense on why I'm confused as to why this thing doesn't tighten down!


PS~ Doesn't 77 foot pounds sound like alot? I torque my car's lugs to 85 foot pounds. I just want to make sure there isn't something lost in a conversion translation here.

front wheel spindle 77 lbf lb
spindle pinch bolt 14
rear wheel spindle 77
torque arm bolts 14
brake arm pinch bolt 14

 

Sorry, you're right, I was giving "general" advice.

I just checked the fiche.

Yours does go in from the other side, but the principal is the same; one fork leg is part of the "sandwich," the axle is free to slide horizontally in the other. In your case the shoulder on the axle pin bottoms against the spacer, the speedo drive is on the other side.

Torque spec double-check will have to come from somebody with a 750 book, but it sounds about right.

 

Thanks for the update. That makes more sense now. I appreciate the quick response. I feel like I can get the front done now with no issues. Now if anyone knows how to do the rear properly with a shaft drive it would be appreciated.
I think it should be straight forward, but any advice is appreciated.

PS~Where did that neat graphic come from?

One more question/concern. I'm at work right now or else I'd try to torque my front castle nut to 77 ft/lbs. When I removed the cotter pin when I took the front rim off I was able to remove the castle nut by hand. I'm curious if I torque it to 77 ft/lbs if the hole in the pin will be past the holes on the castle nut. Again, I haven't tried this, so it still might work perfect. It just seems to be that there is enough play in the spacer still the castle nut will pull past the hole in the pin making the cotter pin worthless unless the nut really backs off. I may be crazy though.

 

The castle nut shouldn't go past the hole, if it does that's probably a good sign that something is missing. I found that once their snug they tighten up pretty quick so your probably ok.

Edit: You can find the parts diagrams at http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx.

Great spot

 

77 ft/lbs is about right, the 750 Seca has the same torque specs.

 

Ok guys. The process given for the front rim worked perfect. It is now torqued at 77 ft/lbs and everything still spins freely and plenty of room to add the cotter pin.

NOW...

The rear is a different story. I need help from anyone with a shaft set up. I undid the castle nut and the pinch bolt to repeat the 77 ft/lbs process on the rear. As soom as I was giving it any torque (maybe 20ish) the rear tire was nearly impossible to turn and starting to beyond where the castle pin and cotter pin would touch. Obviously the rear does not get the same process. I just kept backing it off till the rear wheel spun freely for now. A real set of instructions is greatly needed.

 

you have a small spacer missing, look at the exploded view on the yam web site. YAMAHA PARTS

 

Well I tore the rear tire off in an attempt to find out my issue. I'm not sure if I'm any closer. That picture isn't exactly clear off the website. It seems all the spacers are in the tire (solid connection in rim). The only thing I don't see is #2, but I think that is a subassembly that is really there. Anyways. Took a bunch of pictures. Tell me what you think.

http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa26 ... r65/XJ750/

 

Yes, number two is inside the wheel between the bearings.
What about #24 and #25 are they there?
Haynes Manual is a big help, it gives you step by step instructions on this.
Although it usually says assemble in reverse order.
:lol:

 

I'm sorry about the pictures. Its being funny about uploading. There should be 6 when I'm all done.
yes I do have 24 and 25. I hope I have 25, that's the castle nut. Did you mean a different number?
I put it all back together with some bearing grease (careful not to get any on brake pads). Same deal. I can tell when the system gets snug (I can feel the solid joint) but a few turns past that and the rear tire starts to drag somehow. When it starts to drag really bad there would be no contact between the castle nut and the cotter pin (aka down the threads farther than I think it should be. Is there a spacer that goes between the tires driverside bearing and the frames rear gear area? This seems to be to me the only place I could imagine friction starting.

Finally got all the pictures working. I should have cleaned up the bearing surfaces before I took pictures. I did clean them up good and put hi temp bearing grease on them before I put it all back together.

http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa26 ... r65/XJ750/

 

NO you are correct it is the castle nut.
I was thinking it was the short spacer but, that's on the front.
Is the wheel seating into the splines of the differential properly.
That's all I can think of.

 

I think it is #3 that is missing.

 

Will the bearings turn freely or are they completely shot?

 

hey bikebandit has brand new front rims available!.....only $922 lol

 

The picture isn't 100% clear to me. But isn't #3 still inside the rim assembly?
I think all the parts between 4 and 6 are contained within the wheel assembly between the outside bearings. Yes I believe all the bearings appear to be turning freely without issue. I was suprised how clean everything looked when I wiped them down a touch.
I definatly have 27 and 24. You can see them in the pictures. I also have number 2. You can see it in the pictures. I may be missing #3? Should you be able to see it inside the rim without taking things apart? I assembled my bike last night. I'd have to tear down again to check. I didn't take any pictures looking into the rim........ I should have I guess.

I just looked and I kind of have a picture in this area. I think #3 points between this bearing and the main spacer........... am I correct?
I don't see anything here if that is where it does go.
http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa26 ... 0_1330.jpg

 

I just did mine yesterday, I have a 650 but its the same set up, that #3 is inside the hub, I took my drum off and a # 3 never droped out # 3 is not the main spacer, there should only be a spacer on the outside #27 and also one washer that goes on the inside with the cam rod which is # 17.
No washers or spacers go on the outside of the bearings.
From looking at the pics your axle needs to go in about half a inch.
You can also spin the wheel with the drum cover off to see if it its teh diff not lined up I doubt its that, try putting the axle in and rotating it and see if the bearings are moving smoothly. It just looks like you need to tap the axle in, use a wood block, I had to tap mine in, make sure you take like a scotch bright pad or somthing and clean off the rust and stuff off the axle.
I know mine was dragging also, my pads were off the shoe and the were only had an 1/8th of an inch of material thickness left. metal on metal. I saw that you still have some pad left, mabey it is to low and need to be replaced? I cant tell from the shoe pic.

 

I am a little confused about two things.
First, number 17. Where exactly is that at? Is that part of the pinned joint? It seems to be part of the brakes only. Is it part of this?
http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa26 ... 0_1329.jpg

Moveover, the entire shaft spins very freely. If I losten the pinch bolt and back the castle nut off a few turns it rotates very easily with no binding. The wheel is also spinning very freely.

I honestly do not get hammering the pin in (I did that yesterday). As soon as you start to tighten the castle nut it just starts pulling the pin untill the shoulder his the drum housing, which pushes on the pin, which in turn pushs the rim against the cast aluminum housing. Everything simply goes back to where it was at before.
The only way in my head this would not happen is if you tighten the pinch bolt first, or add a spacer in the system after the drum section. Or else it will just pull the threads right back out. Am I missing something. Is there supossed to be a way to adjust the rear wheel side to side or something?

 

# 17 is under the shoes, its what the break linkage connects to.
Put the axle in all the way so everything is all togeather touching, and then tighten the castle nut, then the pinch bolt.
Do you have a washer or spacer remaining after you put it back togeather or somthing?
Can you take pics of how you are puting the hub back together?



BTW you dont even mess with #3 unless you take the bearings out #3 is underneath the bearings. there is no spacer in the hub except #17 that fits underneath the cam rod.

 

http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa26 ... r65/XJ750/

In this set of pictures I show the "washers" I have on the outside. They are obviously loose in this picture, but this is how I have it tightened up in this order.

 

Oh I see you did have the whole wheel off, I just had the drum cover off mine. Mabey it is your final drive splines not lined up or missing somthing.... :?

 

There's a spacer about 3" long that goes in the final drive unit that has fallen out on mine before and is easy to miss getting back in. It does not show up in the picture of the rear wheel, but is no. 1 in the picture of the final drive unit.

 

I looked for a picture of the final drive and I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for. Wouldn't it be obviously really loose if I were missing a spacer of that size?

 

Ya I see a 3 inch spacer that goes in the hub, Im pretty sure you would know it wasnt in there. Hard piece to misplace.

 

Here is a Smatic of the final drive

 

In your first picture that shows the final drive with the splines, in the center where the axle goes thru there should be a spacer about 3" long, it keeps the wheel form bottoming out in the splines. If you stick your finger in the hole for the axle it should stick on your finger and come out when you remove your finger. It is notorious for dropping out and rolling away while you have the wheel off. From looking at your picture, it doesn't look like its in there.

 

No 3 is a spacer & slides on the axel with the long spacer, it goes against the bearing & stops it binding.
It is shown red on this diagram.

 

If you see the #3 how the line shows it it underneath the bearing, I took mine apart yesterday, no spacer or washer on the outside of the bearing.
My wheel spins nice a smooth.

 

would you have a diagram for the front for a 1982 xj 650 maxim ?

 

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorc ... 82/o/m8214

 

Can you please tell him in a picture which number you are refering to?
Is it in the "rear wheel" diagram? Or the "final drive" diagram?
I'll take all of this apart again this weekend. I drove it for about 60 miles last night with no issues as is, but I feel something is still amiss.

 

If you look at XJBull81's diagram of the final drive, it is No. 1 up in the upper left hand corner. In your photobucket pictures, the first picture is of the final drive with the splines facing the camera, in that picture, the spacer goes in the hole for the axle you see in the center of the spline side. Stick your finger in that hole and if its in there you should be able to get it stick on your fingertip and pull it out. I have a spare final drive and I looked it last night, and I don't think your spacer is in there. The axle hole on the final drive is actually somewhat larger than the spacer so it will easily fall out and roll off. Mine has done this a couple of times when I had the wheel off. Let me know and if needed, I can take pictures for you.

I took some rough measurements of the spacer last night, it is approx 2 23/32" long with OD approx 7/8' and ID approx 5/8".

 

Perfect info. I'll get around to it this weekend. If its been missing, I've been riding it for years like that. Interesting. I admit. That hole in the final drive does look rather large.

PS~ I must be crazy because I do not see an item #1 in any picture for the REAR tire.
#1 in the rear wheel assembly is the rim.
#1 on the rear drive is the gear case.
Do you mean # 71?

 

Sorry, you're right, I was using the reference number in the XJ750 service manual picture for the final drive and not the one in his post. The spacer is in the upper left corner of his picture and is the only item outside the dotted line box. I can not make out the reference number. I'll go take a picture of it and if I'll see if I can figure out how to post it.

 

Alright a follow up for you guys who have been SUPER helpful. After looking at the prints and talking to you guys it seems that I may have been missing the spacer/collar #71 in my final drive (p/n 90387-172A5-00). I was given the info there should be a loose spacer in the final drive that is nearly 3 inchs long that off set the tire from the final drive to keep them from binding as you torque the castle nut. Plus it seems to space the tire over away from the drive shaft (rubbing is another issue I have been having). Well I took everything apart and I sure DON'T see a spacer in there that is the correct size. Its actually VERY obvious something is missing when you put the main bolt through and see the gap around it. So I called my local dealership and they will have it in just a few days all for just over seven bucks. I took some pictures to show the issue. Once again, thanks guys. You seriously may have saved my life on this one.
I have been riding this bike for nearly 8 years without this spacer. I think I changed the rear tire when I graduated highschool (2000). That must have been when I misplaced the spacer. Then I went to college. I took the bike to college the last two years. Rode it off and on. Then I got a job and the bike has basically sat for 4 years with VERY little ride time. I just decided to randomly check the rear castle torque spec after I changed the front tire so I could start riding again. That is when I found I had a problem. Crazy. Once again, thanks all.

First 3 pictures are the area of interest.

http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa26 ... r65/XJ750/

 

We posted at nearly the same time! Thanks for the help anyways. That is the exact part I ordered. I'm relieved to have finally figured this out.

 

Just in case anyone else needs the info, I posted a couple of pictures in my gallery of where the spacer goes. I also measured it in case someone actually has to make one, it is 2.733" long with OD of .944" and ID of .674"

 

Just a follow up. I WAS IN FACT missing that spacer. New one fit like a glove and everything torqued like it should. The rear tire still spins easily. I have been riding the bike for well over 8-9 years without that rear spacer.