New Tires a DIY???

Hey all,

After I called the only bike shop in town to ask about new tires (mine are old, cracked, and the rear is pretty bald), I was told the price would be about $130 per tire plus $40 to install the front and $50 to install the rear. YIKES!

So, for giggles, I checked out BikeBandit.com and found some inexpensive Kenda tires that had good reviews. Then, while reading ALL of the reviews, I noticed that a few people said things that made me thing they put the tires on themselves. Now, I've changed litterally thousands of bicycle tires, but I wouldn't have begun to think of doing a motorcycle tire since it is so much like a car tire.

Well, I googled it and found some great videos on YouTube showing how to change tires in your garage. My question is whether y'all do this kind of stuff, or if you think tire changes are best left to the pros? I'm sure I can figure it out since I managed to get the carbs off and back on again. How bad can it be if I'm careful and make sure the bead seals?

 

You could buy some tire changing tools from Chacal, but then you should still get the tire balanced. So you still would need the shop for that. Unless you want to buy a balancer then that would make it about the same price as getting everything done in shop.
You could save around 100 bucks installing them its not hard really.

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... rt=60.html
Wheel and Tire Changing Tools:

Here's a variety of tools to make the chore of tire de-mounting and re-moutning of your tires just a wee bit easier (and much less expensive!).



HCP1753 Aftermarket tire BEAD POPPER, this molded plastic wedge, when firmly whacked with a mallet or hammer, gently "pops" stuck tire beads away from the inner rim flange without risking damage to the wheel rim in this critical area.
$ 19.95




HCP9772 Aftermarket CURVED TIRE IRON, 15" cast steel tire "pry bar" helps you lever the wheel bead over the edge of the tire safely and without risking damage to your wheel rims or the tire.
$ 9.95


HCP9772 Aftermarket STRAIGHT TIRE IRON, 16" forged steel tire "pry bar" helps you lever the wheel bead over the edge of the tire safely and without risking damage to your wheel rims or the tire.
$ 8.95


HCP1749 Aftermarket pair of nylon RIM EDGE PROTECTORS, these curved plastic guards, placed under the above tire irons, provide the utmost in protection fromn rim edge damage when changing tires.
$ 9.95





HCP9196 Aftermarket VALVE STEM TOOL, handy 4-in-1 tool allows you to properly remove and insert the stem core, and also clean/chase/re-thread the internal and external stem threads.
$ 4.00





Wheel Balancing Weights and Tools:


HCP10490 Aftermarket WHEEL BALANCER. Contrary to pupular belief, you don't have to spin-balance motorcycle wheels to achieve satisfactory results. With this simple tool, and a pair of hi-rise common jackstands ("hi-rise" means more than 15" lift off the floor level), you can professionaly balance your own tire/wheel assembly. High quality tool-steel axle, low-drag bearings, and precision-machined wheel holder collets provide you with the means to spin-balance all XJ-series wheels in a matter of minutes. Set-up and balancing directions are included. Properly cared for (meaning: don't drop it or beat on it!), this balance will last a lifetime.
$ 99.95

 

Is the aftermarket wheel balancer just an axle that you spin the wheel on and then balance by assuming that if a section of wheel is always stopping at the bottom it is to heavy?

If so it would be very interesting to hear if anyone has used this tool then taken the wheel into the shop to see how it stacks up to a professional job.

 

I watched a couple guys wrestle on my new tires in a home garage - it convinced me that I could do it if I had to and/or had the time. For as often as I go through tires, though, it's not worth it for me to buy the tools. So next change I'll either see f I can get that guy to do them again for a 12-pack, or I'll take them to the shop. Note, I wouldn't take the whole bike to the shop, just the wheels, That saves some money right there.

 

You need to find a different shop. My local shop charges 20$ per wheel to install and ballance a tire when you purchase it from them. The last set I bought cost me less that 200$ installed for the front and rear. Name brand tires to , not cheap stuff.
Check them out, Cycle Gear.com

 

I use what I believe is a similar tool. Only difference is mine has it's own stand so jack stands aren't required. Also costs a bit more than the Chacal tool :wink:

Wheel weights come in 1/4 oz increments, which is also the tolerance of high speed spin balancers. My rig will easily balance that accurately.

If you were to properly gravity balance a wheel and compare it to a spin balancer any error would likely be in the spin balancer. Those machines need to be maintained and calibrated or their readings are useless. Gravity requires no maintenance :lol:

 

I bought new tires earlier this year. I called around to 4 different places and $40 per wheel (bring them in off the bike) was the going price. I thought that was expensive but it was consistent shop to shop. To me it was worth it. I do most of my own work but have no big desire to do the tires. That and they balance them and toss the old ones.

 

Interesting stuff. The more I think about it, the more I think I'm going to give it a shot. What the heck fun is an old bike if you can't do stuff like this yourself, right?

 

Absolutely. Go for it.

 

Before you start the job of removing and remounting tires by yourself, ... get your wife or girlfriend to record you doing the job with a CamCorder.

You might as well have a shot at winning the prize on Americas Funniest Home Videos for all the antics you'll be going through.

 

You have to have done it to know how funny that is. :lol:

 

I did mine in less than a half hour for both then maybe 30-45 min. in balancing them. It isn't that difficult but then again we changed all our dirtbike tires when I was younger so I had a clue on what I was doing. Most motosport shops sell flat bars and plastic rim protectors to change out tires. they aren't too expensive and Chacal may sell them as well. Just remomber the yellow dot is the lightest spot on the tire line that up with your valve stem(heavest spot on rim usually) that cuts down on the amount of balancing you will have to do.

 

Sidelining...

The Kenda's are cheap, BUT... I put a set of Bridgestone Spitfires on my 400 and they feel GREAT!!, broke them in during a week of rain and had 0 slippage at all....just a thought....

As for installing, my shop also does the install/balance for $20/rim

 

If you do them yourself spring for tire irons.

Nothing worse than a wheel gouged up by screwdrivers. Bead tends to leak.

 

Search YouTube for "change motorcycle tire"

it will give you a dozen or more videos explaining the process.

 

The shop I buy mine from also mounts and high-speed spin balances them; they charge half as much than if I didn't get the tires from them.

I used to do them myself when I was young and invincible.

 

i've done them too but not in 20 years....thought about it but then thought for 20 bucks I can save some fingers and some sweat. Plus they balance it.......

 

and fill the tires with nitrogen... i think which is lighter and more stable ... i think lol

 

I had same dilema as you, plus I am cheap. Getting the bead to seat on the front was a challenge, took an overnight break, came back in the morning. Rear went smooth, about an hour total. Also went with the Bridgestones.

My main reason for not having the shop so it, was they said it would be about three days before I could get them back. I only had 7 days of leave at home.

 

Tires are definitely a DIY for me. There was no way I was going to pay the local shop $100/each for cheapo Chinese tires, with me bringing the rims in.

I get Bridgestone Battlax Bt-45s from Chaparral Motorsports for about $75 each with free shipping.

One time expense of Motion Pro tire irons, a sheet of stick-on weights, a $5 used car rim from the salvage yard, and a bead breaker and balancing stands from scrap lumber, and I had my setup. I made rim protectors from an old shampoo bottle.

The shampoo bottle idea, along with the design of the bead breaker and balancing stands, all came from this web site:

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing.html

He walks you through the whole process, and his tool and setup ideas make it a lot easier.

Good luck and have fun!

Herb

 

I used a similar set up. Works quite nicely.

In my case I saved $5 by digging a rim out of the dumpster at one of the local tire shops.

 

That tutorial rocks! Thanks mhh. I'm going to do it. Might get the Spitfires. Those seem nice, and I like the tread pattern.

I'll post a report of my experience when I've finished them.

 

+1 on the Spitfires.

 

mhh,

GREAT find on that tire changing website. I love building my own tools. Half of the fun for me is the design and implementation of productivity improvement tools!

When I had new shoes put on the Maxim I had to order the rear as it wasn't in stock. When I tried to have them installed at the service department they made me wait 3 days because of their backlog. The service dept manager had that 'roll your eyes, yeah I know you were hoping to get them sooner, you know you didn't pay for installation when you bought your tires' attitude. I didn't feel like I could take them elsewhere because the deal I made for the tires took into account the ridiculous service dept. install fee.

A couple side notes: The tires are still working just fine. The a$$ wipe dealership is OUT OF BUSINESS. 50,000 square feet of new bike dealership gone! Poof! One thing is for certain, their service dept. sure didn't help their longevity.

Thanks again for sharing.

Loren

 

When you're young and can wrench ... you don't pay to have anything done.
Whole Engine rebuilds.
Universal Joints on your Sport Car.
Shocks.
Brakes.
Putting a New Clutch and a Throw-out Bearing in a MGB using a rafter in your Mom's garage and a Come-along to lift-out the Driveline, turning down the music and listening to the rafter groan under the weight.
Saving money is a beautiful thing!

Then you get old but don't act like it.
Bike won't pass inspection because the Front Tire's best rubber to the road is the wear bars.
OK. Man-up and get the new rubber on there.
That's when what you been denying gets illustrated in full color to show you why your Chevy has a spacious trunk and there's machines that do tire changing a whole lot easier than you can get it done John Henry.
You ain't a kid no more.

But, I did go after the Front Tire.
Me, the Front Wheel, 3-Tire Irons and a Tool called: "The Breezer"
The battle raged for far too long.
I should have surrendered and given-up ... a couple of times.
Like I mentioned in an earlier Post ... If anyone taped me struggling with it; I win the AFHV Big Money Prize.

Anybody want to buy a Breezer.
I will NEVER use it again.
Really.

 

Dang! What the heck is a Breezer? Sounds fun! LOL

So, I've got my tires and tire irons on order. My next question is how do I lift my bike? The PO put a 4 in 1 exhaust on it, so there is no center stand anymore. I'm not exactly sure how to get each end up to work on removing the wheel. No exposed rafters to attach the come-along to. LOL Neighbor's got a floor jack, though. Will the bike balance ok if I lift it and support with cinder blocks and 2X4s?

 

I'd say that your going to have to pop off the exhaust then block up the bike under the engine from there you can probably just get a helper to hold the bike while you remove each wheel and put in appropriate blocks under the forks/rear fender.

It seems that if your careful it might be possible to block up under the engine/frame with out removing the exhaust but you'll have to look into it a bit. What bike are you running, as I have a 4 into 1 exhaust on my bike and the center stand is still there and operational.

 

Yep, I think I saw that one on AFV once...

 

Well, it's my XJ700X. I guess I assumed the center stand was removed for the exhaust. Perhaps he just had a thing about center stands. LOL

OK. I'll see about getting some blocks ready. I guess a floor jack will get it up far enough to block under it? I guess I'm wondering how to get the wheels off the floor, so that I can remove and block them. I suppose that will do it, but the idea makes me a little nervous. I don't want to get it up, and have the whole thing topple over. But, this is my first time, so...

Yeah, I'll have my kid videotape this operation, just in case.

 

a low set of saw horses to work on
a 12 inch c-clamp to break the bead, i think it's 12
some wood blocks if the bead is stubborn
3 tire irons
strips cut from a 2 liter coke bottle for rim protectors
a valve core tool
a little soapy water
and a helper, very important
a tie down to seat the bead if needed
20 minutes max per tire
if you practice on 5.30 6 ply knobbys with a tube you can do these while you have your morning toast

 

Excellent. I figure after mounting hundreds of 23 X 700cc Contis by hand, I ought to be able to figure out two motorcycle tires.

Still looking for suggestions on how to get the tires off the floor, though. I'm sure I can figure it out, but if anyone has a tip, I'd sure be obliged.

 

i don't know about a X but on my seca and maxim on the frame under the neck there's a pair of empty tapped holes maybe two pair
i made a plate to bolt on there and welded a rod to go straight down to the floor but i think if you just put some bolts in the holes a 2X6 cut the right length would work
have someone sit on the back, jam the board in and it should be pretty stable
then do one wheel at a time

 

Thanks Polock. Sounds a lot simpler then the system I was concocting. I'll check it out.

 

I made a Jig that fits over the round thing on my Floor Jack.
I padded it with towels and a carpet fragment.
I lift the Bike by raising the Bike enough to get the wheel off the Floor.

If it has to stay off the Floor and raised up ...
Run a long piece of pipe across the front of the frame and secure it with large muffler clamps. Put Jack Stabds ubder the pipe,

You dont need pipe if you have 3point case guards.

 

Thanks, Rick. I was heading in that direction, and collecting scraps of 2X4 to rig over the round jack plate. Carpet frag is a good idea.

 

You might look into a motorcycle jack. Will come in handy if you are going to do your own wrenching. Should be able to lift the whole bike off the floor and do both wheels.

In particular it's nice to be able to raise and lower the bike when doing the rear wheel.

 

Yeah, I've looked into it. I might end up getting a swingarm stand, but a jack is out of my budget at the moment. I have a buddy who has one, though. Seems pretty nice. But, he's got a bike on it at the moment...