I need a complete rebuild kit

so if you guys know where i can get it please let me know

 

ferrous, it would help if you would tell us what you need the kit for but, be it MC/carbs or just about anything get with Chacal. He is our resident parts guru for everything XJ, assuming you have an XJ. YOu can find him in the vedor section of the forums listing. It will also help us if you put the year/model of your bike & mileage in your signature. Good luck with your rebuild & keep us posted on your progress & questions.
Gregg

 

motor, carbs and brakes is what i need a rebuid kit for

 

You should be able to get just about anything that you could ever need from "chacal" The guy has it all and, ships faster than anyone I've ever ran arcoss on the web & his prices are very hard to beat! I get parts from Atlanta Georgia (chacal's location) to Portland Oregon within 3 days 8O !

Cheers
Ken

 

I get em in two with express shipping!
Dont gotta be so brash with us Sphinx. We're a forum. Here to help.

 

Hey sphinx, So what sort of problems are you having with the bike. This forum has some of the best people around on it with lots of great advice. My advice is that you list where your at with the bike and let people have a shot at giving you some pointers.

Cheers

 

my problem with the bike is love

Had my bike not been given to me by my dad i would have sold it


my buddy and i got it running but not riding. It smoked horribly and i have no experience with a bike of any sort besides riding them.


and i do not do that real well either have not dropped one though so thats a plus..



i want to simply tear it down clean it up put it back together and ride problem free forever so any way




I live in New Castle indiana and NEED help NEED NEED NEED thats no joke

so if anyone lives close let me know please

 

I would change out motors rather than rebuilding
I just spent ~400 doing my rebuild.
I regretted each and every moment(Financially)
I even looked online and saw several motors for 200-300, too bad I did not listen to myself....

 

Since the engine is smoking that means that you've either got bad piston rings or there is a problem with the valve seals. Both are fairly involved issues but they are definitly do able (you'll know a huge amount by the time your done to!). One thing is for sure, you'll need to get a few tools before you get started!

I would say that you'll need:
Hynes manuel or XJ CD (about $10, you can search on here to find where to get it).
Torque wrench (one low ranch ~0-15 ft lbs and one higher ~0-80 ft lbs)
Good socket set
A set of allen keys
A compression tester
A vacuum gauge (to syncronize the engine)
A colortune plug (to tune the engine once its working).
Lots of rags

The first thing I recommened that you do is a commpression test to determine the state of the engine. Record the readings you get from the compression test (#1 cylinder is the left most and #4 the right most). Then add a 1-2 tbsp of oil (about a regular sized cap) to the cylinders. If the compression goes up significantly you know that the piston rings are the issue, if not suspect the valve seals.

Once you get the numbers from the tests post them up here on the site so that we all can have a look and give you some advice (the people here love to get as many details as possible). Run a search on compression test to see the details of how to do it.

Your in for the long run but you'll soon find that most of the people here suffer from this thing you call 'love' too

 

Oh yeah, I forgot about the swap option =P I personally like the rebuilding part but swapping the engines is less work probably the way to go because then you'll have a parts engine if you ever need it.

 

ok then thanks



and the swap option does that mean a completely assembled motor that all
i have to do is put it in and go carbs ready and at this point would love for someone to shooot me a price to rebuild it for me thanks again

 

I have about $2000 in my rebuild, but i punch the motor out 60,000, and got new piston, with head work and crank work.

 

where would i go to get a motor and what would come with it


i also would love it if some one would step up on the whole hey i need help thing if they do in fact live here in indiana once again



I live in New castle indiana please let me know if you are close enough and interested in fixing my bike for me i will pay you

 

turbo secas are not all too uncommon. check out craigslist for possibilities and i have seen em on ebay as well. maybe u can get one reasonable enough. i saw one in cinncinati cople o weeks ago at a dealer but he hasnt gotten back to me about it. it didnt sell cause it didnt meet reserve price but it wasnt running good either. carb issues. will keep my good eye out for ya

 

1- smoke doesn't necessarily mean rings or valve seals, it can mean a lot of things especially on a Turbo.

2- We still don't have much history on this bike; how many miles are on it, etc., to be able to make feasible recommendations.

3- If you do consider an engine swap, think about "de-turboing" it and just dropping a normally-aspirated 650 or 750 mill in there; might be a tad easier to find parts.

4- With these bikes, either you go salvage yard/eBay and get a different motor; OR you embark upon a rebuild. Take note of the above remarks; a complete rebuild has to be a "price is no concern" project, and parts like pistons are not easy to find at any price.

 

You could disconnect the headers for a brief run to see if it's the motor smoking... If it doesn't then it's the turbo. If it does then you know you need to go into the motor or replace it. You might also inspect the inline check valves on the oil cooling for the turbo, be careful if you do as the fittings are hard to find.

The turbo I had smoked terribly as well when I finally got it fired up. I pulled the header to see if it was the motor or turbo smoking. Turned out it was the turbo, or so I thought... I had checked everything, cleaned the check valves and checked the turbo and it all checked out. As I started to disasseble the turbo to pull it, I pulled the left exhaust pipe and stood it up on end. When I did, a large coffe can worth of mud dobber nests came out completely oiled up. After a few hard shakes I had it all out. Put it back on and restarted it. It smoked for a little bit. But by the time I finished syncing the carbs it was all cleared up.
Your results may vary .

I still have a couple manuals on PDF for the turbo if you need them.

 

Smoke from a turbo comes from a couple of different things. There really isn't a seal as you would think of it on the turbine side. There is just a piston ring on the shaft. The theory is that the pressure inside the turbine housing is higher than the oil pressure. That would keep the oil were it belongs and not in the header. What maybe happing is that the seal which in most cases is made of carbon on the compressor wheel side may be cracked or just worn out. Pull the tube going from the compressor outlet to the engine inlet. If there is oil in it thats your source. Most turbos will leak a little oil into the compressor at idle. If you have a restricted inlet, like from a dirty air cleaner or crushed inlet tube that will also cause smoke. Another thing that can also cause smoke is if the case pressure is to high due to a restriction (see post above about wasp nest) than the pressure inside the turbo center housing is higher than the pressure in the turbine housing and at low rpm in the compressor hsg. If this machine has been sitting a long time you may have leaking valve seals or piston rings that have become rusted and allowing a bunch of blow by. Both of those increase the case pressure. In short make sure the induction system is clean and has no restrictions and make sure the gear case vent is not restricted in anyway. Then run it a while, it might just need to seat back in before the smoke will go away