'82 XJ550 starter switch frustrations

I took the bike out for a ride a few days ago to get something from the hardware store. When I cam out the starter switch decided to not work. I push started the bike and rode it home.

Took it apart tonight to have a look. It seems like the dielectric grease I used after cleaning the switch took its toll on the button - it looks like the ridge that held it in place disintegrated.

At that point, I look for the second assembly I had from the parts bike but couldn't find it anywhere. I decided to run up to radio shack to see what they had...

I found a new switch for $2.99 (maybe less just can't remember). Figured I'd do a quick write up as I've seen several postings related to starter switch troubles. I like how it looks, but tomorrow will be the real test!

I'll also add the rest of the pics tomorrow. Need to resize them before I can put them up., I have a pdf if any one would like that in the meantime.

Doug

 

I have seen new buttons on EBAY. I have one on order, mine fell out last week, I was able to start it by sticking my pocketknife in the hole to make the switch.

 

I don't think the grease had anything to do with it breaking. The same that happened to me probably has been happening to everyone else. Sometimes, the button doesn't work right away so we push it harder and harder or for a longer period of time than is necessary. Couple that excessive force and the nice tender old age of these plastic bits and they are sure to start breaking more often.

I think this exemplified by it almost always being the starter button that breaks. Not the horn button. At least I don't recall hearing of anyone complaining about their horn button breaking. Not saying they don't. But I have never heard of anyone complain about it.

Let us know how that RadioShack switch works out. I think I was looking at the same one today.

 

I put a small piece of cut rubber tube between the actual switch and its mount to stop it flexing, now the button sits further out, worked well.

 

Put everything together this morning. Fired right up, and many times through out the day. I'm going to call it successful. I believe that long term this will be a better solution as the switch is more enclosed, and for $2.99 it's cheap enough to buy another later on if needed.

The first few pics were taken with my cell phone, so the quality isn't too good.

 

I see what you did and that is the reason I didn't pick up the switch I was thinking of. I don't want to modify my housing. I did see another switch that I thought would fit in the present hole, but I think the amp rating was too low. Something like .5 amp I think it was.

Anybody happen to know how many amps the starter button needs to be rated at?

 

Aren't the starter buttons supposed to cut the contacts for the lighting curcuit while engaging the starter when you press the button? If that's the case then the button you installed is engaging the starter without cutting the lighting curcuit, right? That's the only problem I see when looking at an after market switch.

 

Not exactly. The lights aren't cut off in order to turn on the bike, they simply don't come on until after the bike has started. The OEM swith is a simple two wire connector just like this replacement one. Actually, not just like it, as the design is different. But functionally they are the same.

 

I'm sorry for the confusion. That's my other bike (Honda) that has that kind of switch. Now I can replace my Yamaha switch when I need to...Thanks!

 

Amazing. After filling a new battery tonight I thought I'd check the old battery once more. Key in, volts at a shade under 12. Figure I'll hit the button anyway. I look at the button and it's hanging on by a tiny shred of plastic.

Next stop, radio shack.

 

I just got a radio shack starter button to replace the broken stock one. Will someone please explain how to wire it up? The stock one has just one blue wire attached to it and the Radio shack one has one blue wire and one black wire attached to it (according to the photo). How do I know which side is + and which side is - when I am soldering on the leads? There aren't any markings on the unit. Also, I suppose the blue wire would connect to the wire that was hooked up to the original button, but where does the black wire get connected?I know this must sound stupid and this job should be simple, but before I modify the housing I need to know the answers to these questions. I really appreciate It.

 

For a switch, there is no + (pos) or - (neg,) the switch is only joining two wires together. The original switch grounds the start solenoid, hence only one wire. Just connect one wire to a good ground inside the housing and to one terminal of the switch, the other wire is connected from the second terminal of the switch to the original wire of the bike.