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possible stupid oil question

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by regulator, Apr 20, 2006.

  1. SecaMaverick

    SecaMaverick Active Member

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    One other thing to watch for (that I found out the hard way) is that there are o-rings below the float needle seats in some of the XJ carb models (mine's an '81 with the Mikunis). If those o-rings are bad (dried out or cracked) the carbs could flood even if the float levels are good. YMMV.
     
  2. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    I recently did a rack of Carbs for a Member who sent them to me with Carb Kits from an aftermarket supplier.
    After installing the new Float Valve Bodys and Pins; I set-up to adjust Float Heights.
    Before I could set the Float Heights I had to deal with those Brand New Float Valve Seats and Pins. They leaked. Three out of four. Even though they were Brand New.

    I wish I had saved the packaging to see where they were made.
    I have a sneaking suspicion that even though they were were "Made in Japan" ... the Japan wasn't the Country, but a City in China or Taiwan.

    Before I could get the NEW Floats to stop sticking; I had to smooth and refinish the Bore on the Valve Body with a rolled-tight piece of 1200 Finishing Paper and "Dress" the side-guides of the Pins with the 1200; too.

    These were the type of Float Valve that does NOT have "Beenie Screens"
    So, if you are having trouble with Floats sticking and can''t figure-out why because you just replaced the old Floats with NEW ones ... beware!

    Three out of four would lead me to believe that Quality Control ain't exactly Job One with some manufacturers making aftermarket parts for Hitachi and Mikuni Carbs.
     
  3. NZXJ750RIDER

    NZXJ750RIDER Member

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    hey guys both my XJ'S being ex police have been stripped of all fairings i cant find any here are they readily available in your parts of the world if so do they cost much?
     
  4. TIMEtoRIDE

    TIMEtoRIDE Active Member

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    US Cops rode Harleys until Kawasaki started selling Police Bikes for a dollar !!
     
  5. macnifico

    macnifico Member

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    This being the thread for stupid oil questions...
    I just noticed that my '81 750 Seca is leaking oil, and it has been for a time, as I found two more stains in the rear tire:


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]




    Should I do this, if I find the right tools, or should I give the job to the moto-mechanic? And WHY it is leaking? Overfilling or just not thight enough?
    Oh, please remember that I'm an absolute newbie that doesn't even have but a few tools. (I'm not mechanically inclined).
    Saludos desde Reynosa.
    macnifico
     
  6. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I believe that is the VENT and that would be the result of overfilling OR maybe just long hard running in say...a hot climate?
     
  7. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    That object at the top of the Final Drive is the "Breather"
    Yours seems to have part of it missing.
    A bell-shaped "Cap" that goes over that part of the element leaking.

    Rear-ends leak from there when:
    The Rear-end is over-filled
    The wrong viscosity of Hypoid Gear Oil is used.

    In Cold Weather.
    ALL of them.
    The Hypoid's so thick and cold it gets "Slung" at the Breather and pushed-out.
     
  8. macnifico

    macnifico Member

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    Mmmmh, the weather has been very cold in the night, around 34~38ºF, and around 68~75ºF in the day.
    I rode the Yamaha a few days ago, but not too much, a few miles in 65ºF weather.
    Could it be overfilling with the wrong viscosity in the night's cold weather? :roll:
    I'm not using it much, so... What should I do? Take it off, so it just finds its own oil level?
    Saludos desde Reynosa, Tamaulipas, Mexico!
    macnifico
     
  9. TheHound

    TheHound Active Member

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    Look at your last pic.
    See the large bolt head, half way up the final drive, toward the back?
    This is the fill for the final drive.
    With the bike level take the bolt out.
    The fluid should be at this level, if fluid pours out it was over filled.
    There is a cap missing from your vent pipe.
     
  10. macnifico

    macnifico Member

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    OK, I'll do that tomorrow.
    Re. the missing cap: It is important? Should I look for this cap to install it?
    Saludos desde Reynosa, Tamaulipas, Mexico!
    macnifico
     
  11. Hvnbnd

    Hvnbnd Active Member

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    Ok I changed!!!
    Swithched from Castrol to Royal Purple 10-30.
    My bike shifts smoother and runs quieter...

    They say it's configured for a wet clutch, that's the only reason I switched. Everyone here says that the synth will cause my clutch to start slipping in time, so I'll try to head it off!?
    I'll let you know how this change works out. Definatly more $$$
     
  12. mopheos

    mopheos New Member

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    Hey Hvnbnd,

    How's the Royal Purple working out so far?
     
  13. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    We say that Synthetic will be harmful because the bulk of it would be.

    There are a few Synths that you can use.
    But, if you mess-up and get the wrong one ... you cook the clutch.
     
  14. Thee_oddball

    Thee_oddball Member

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    i remember the oil debate when i had my virago...i made the mistake of putting regular oil in my bike and when i got on it the clutch would slip...now i cannot be sure this was a problem prior to me buying it(was not running when i bought ) but after i changed to 20-50 for bikes the problem was still there :(. Now from what i gathered form the last debate i saw was that in sumer 20-50 is best and colder climates 5-50 is best and as far as synthetic go i was told if you engine started life using synthetic than thats ok but if it DID NOT changing to synthetic can cause problems. i will ask the PO what he put in but i would like to know what you guys think the best weight and brand is for an 83 XJ1100

    thnx

    S!
     
  15. Wyldman

    Wyldman Member

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    I too bought an '82 Maxim 750, just last week in fact. Did most of the basics last weekend including oil. It was BLACK. In fact it looked as if it had NEVER been changed. The bike only has 10K on it so that's a possibility. Anyway I'll change it again in a couple more weekends. I buy a lot of used older bikes and I'd rather spend a few dollars running oil through them a couple times than take a chance otherwise.
     
  16. Luke9389

    Luke9389 New Member

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    Just got a 82 maxim 650. Dont know alot about bikes and trying to learn but PO said oil change at beginning of the season but the oil window is showing very little oil? Maybe just a quarter of the window is full. When I start it I see know oil? The oil I do see before starting looks pretty clean I just dont know how much oil to add. Do I add it till the window is full and shouldnt I see it when its running? Sorry Im a noob!
     
  17. RiderXJ

    RiderXJ Member

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    There should be a line on the side case near the top of the site glass. The oil should be to that line when it is NOT running.
     
  18. TIMEtoRIDE

    TIMEtoRIDE Active Member

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    The hot tip at XJBikes is to go a little further, fill until you just see a little bubble. Now if your carbs leak gasoline into your crankcase even a little, you will know it. If you use 3 OZ of oil, you'll know that too.
    (bike level on centerstand).

    (hey Mods, should we delete all that "middle gear drain" stuff from 2006 at the beginning of this thread ??)
     
  19. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Sure.
    What page(s) and other info.

    I don't want anybody getting burned.
     
  20. TECHLINETOM

    TECHLINETOM Member

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    Royal Purple Max Cycle 20w-50. 8)
    That's what I run in mine.
    It shifts so smooth you have to watch the tach because you can"t feel the shift with your foot! 8O
     

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