Replacing Friction Plates and Compression Springs

You can use a thck piece of glass and some honing grit and sandpaper to keep it on the cheap side for yor steels.

 

Friction Plates and Compression Springs (Install Prob)

So i got my new springs and plates and a new gasket in and was putting the cover on.
I cracked the cover in half......
The crack is small enough to fill with JB weld after I get it installed back on, but heres my problem
That stud in the center of the clutch basket is supposed to seat in the hole of the cover right? And fit in with the gear thats in the cover? I put on the cover and started tightening down the bolts and "CRRRAAACK" bam cracked it... The stud didnt seat properly
Is there a trick to getting that stud into that hole? I tried numerous times to get it in, like an hour, and I run out of daylight with no sucess... Am I dumb??
-Chris

 

To get it to seat you have to line up the teeth of the 'stud' with the teeth of the gear on the cover. I find that sometimes the teeth can hang up on each other so you have to turn the external portion of the shaft connected to the gear on the clutch cover. Hopefully with a little playing around and jiggling it will all slip together with no force require. Just make sure to line up the teeth of the stud and the internal gear. Also don't tighten anything down if you can't get it to seat prefectly by hand.

 

Just found that one out.. the hard way.. JB weld can take care of the crack though.. Its not.. Busted.. The centerpiece still is completely intact..
I just cant seem to get the teeth lined up!! I've been trying to get it to seat for 3 hours total now and I wanna throw something!
I've got it at a 45 degree angle to the rear and even tweaking it a little to get it to work but its just so... RAR. Gonna go back out and try it again. Something so easy has become so complicated for no reason.. so annoying...
-Chris

 

Ok. Got it back on!!! It was like angels singing in a choir when I finally got it in place! Awwwwhaaahaaaahhhawwwwh!!!<---Choir music
Anyway.
Now that its on I'm wotking on gettting my clutch cable back to where it needs to be.. Getting all the lash out is hard! any suggestions?
-Chris

 

Sure. Take the arm off the spindle. Rotate the spindle clockwise (viewed from above) until it stops. At this point the gears have lifted the "hat" aginst the inside of the pressure plate. Put the arm back on, in a position just to the rear of the little cast-in rectangular "mark" on the cover. Adjust cable at handlebars so adjuster is screwed in about halfway. Adjust at clutch housing to remove most of the freeplay. Fine-tune from the handlebar end.

 

I jsut test drove her and she shifted hard and wont find neutral at a stop. But Fitz, that second step with rotating the spindle is what I didnt do. Didnt say it in the manual! Not the replacing springs and plates section. I'ma go out and try it now.

 

That's because the manual has you reinstalling the cover with the lever still on, at a certain "starting position" that allows it to get it correctly positioned.

The trouble with that, as you discovered, is that it's too easy to get it engaged "a tooth out" one way or the other. The best way to get it right is to reinstall the lever in the correct orientation once the mechanism is back together. The manual has you do it the hard way.

 

Lol, hooray Yamaha Techs.
I had to take the cover back off to sand down a little bit of gasket thats making it leak. But I'm going to put it back on in a min.
What do you mean by postiitoning the arm to the rear of the rectangle? I see the little raised box right by the spindle on the outside of the cover. Is that the Rectangle? How shall I postion the arm, which is the thing that slides over the spindle correct?
-Chris

 

You got it. The "little raised box" is supposed to be a "range of motion" indicator for the clutch. You will get the best results if the tip of the arm is positioned just to the rear of the little box. I believe the book will tell you it's supposed to point right at it, but that will shortchange you on range of pull. You can also go "back" an extra notch on the splines if you want, but if you go too far the geometry gets crossed up and causes an increase in effort.

 

Click on the LINK in My Signature Section.

To really be able to "Fine Tune" your Clutch ... do what they didn't do when the Japs put the Clutch Cable on the Bike.

Undo the Lower-end.
Loosen the 10mm Hex Nuts and remove the Cable from the Holding Bracket.
Remove the Holding Bracket
Drill 2 Small Holes in the Bracket 1/2 Inch from either end as close to the bent-around holding channel as possible. Just big enough for Safety Wire or a Plastic Tie Wrap
Stick the Rubber Dust Cap in hot water for a minute
Remove the Rubber Dust Cap ... (It's a fight)
Remove the Lower 10mm Hex Nut
Place 2 Flat Washers on the Threaded Cable End
(Nylon Washers are the Cats Meow here)
Replace the Nut
Replace the Rubber Cap

Replace the Bracket
Adjustment Nut and WASHER on each end
Secure the Threaded Barrel with Wire or Plastic Tie

Now, the Threaded Barrel won't "Slip-out" as you make Micro-Adjustments to the Hex Nuts.

Reconnect the Cable adjusting it for MAX Throw-out with the Perch Mounted Thumb Adjustment half-way.

Once everything is connected ...
Move the Hex Nuts on the Bracket to adjust-out ALL the Lash.
Guitar String Tight
All further Adjustments can be made at the Perch Knurl.

Zero Lash
No clunking into gear
No Neutral Fight
No Red-Light Creep
A Perfectly adjusted Clutch.