Self Cancelling Unit

My self cancelling unit has never functioned since I bought the bike, at first I accounted it to the fact that my flashers wouldn't flash properly, but after fixing them it still doesn't work. Now after reading a few posts on here i'm wondering if that's a blessing, what are the cons of the self canceller? Some people have commented that they didn't want it.

Next, after reading the manual I have come to the conclusion that the self canceller isn't working due to my broken odometer. It says its hooked to the speedometer, and i'm assuming the odometer section as my speedometer needle still works. Has anyone tried to get into the instruments, am I opening a big can of worms? I'd like to get the odometer going, mostly for the trip odometer, and to see if i like the self canceller.

Thanks in advance.

 

The beauty of the self-canceler is that if you forget to cancel it yourself, it will do it so as not to annoy the rest of the driving public. I'm not finding any information on the self canceling unit in my Haynes, could you point out where you found your info for me? I've opened up my cluster once but I can't recall any problems I encountered, this was 15 years ago. I expect you'll find a broken/worn gear in there but I'm not sure if parts are available from Yamaha. A good speedo shop will have or will be able to get the parts you might need. Give them a call.

 

If you are like me and have the need to know how everything works; take a peek at workings of your speedometer. You'll find that the speedometer cable is connected to rotating magnets with all the gearing made from nylon.

Of particular interest to you will be the sensor above where the magnets rotate. That sensor often gets dislodged if the speedo head sustains a non case-cracking impact. Sometimes, the plastic bridge holding the sensor gets cracked, and moves the sensor far enough away from the magnetic field to pick-up the impulses from the magnets.

Without the magnetic fields being sensed by self-cancellation module's pick-up on the bridge above the rotating magnets ... the self cancelling module goes inoperable on you!

Get some epoxy mixed-up ... its an easy fix.

 

On my bike the self cancelling unit cancels the signal after travelling 150 meters. No doubt it determines this distance from the odometer/speedo unit as Rick has described.

I like the canceller personally although sometimes it cancels early such as on a highway.

 

Thanks for the info Rick, I'd hate to go to all the trouble to find that I can't fix anything. Hopefully the odometer is a simple fix as well. To Robert, I found the info on page 236 sec 23 para 2 of the haynes manual. Again, thanks for the info, i don't know when i'll get a chance to try, but i hope before it gets too much colder (its up to 9°C/48°F today!).

 

Yep there is a little glass thing [looks like a fuse or little long light] , its attacheched to the housing uderneath the speedo and has 2 wires attached to it either end , it is a reed switch , so as the drum of the speedo turns [its magnetic] it open and closes the reed switch and the canceler unit counts them and does its thing..

if you undo the bottom of the speedo cable and then turn it the right way you will hear a clicl click click sort of noise in the speedo housing , thats the reed switch opening closing....

 

I have an odometer that works well, and a self cancelling unit that works half of the time. I use the odometer as a gas guage so it is important to me. On the otherhand, since the self cancelling unit seems to be unreliable, I tend to cancel the turn signal manually most of the time.

 

the 'self cancelling' gizmo has (and may continue to be?) on yamas for at least 2 decades
As mentioned , it operates on distance (speedo/reed switch).. and .. a timer (it's in the Unit itself) This is usually first bit to fail, not the glass reed switch wihich was surprising, to me at least.
Get a 'known good' or a fresh Delay box and plug it in.

 

Before tearing into the speedo remove the able from the back of the speedo with the bike on the center stand and turn the front wheel. If the cable rotates then tear into the speedo. If it doesn't then remove the front axel followed by the speedo gear at the axel. Then look for two tabs that stick out from the speedo dog which is the part still inside the axel. Then check for two slots that the tabs line up with on the speedo gear. Reinstall the gear aligning the tabs with the slots and the gear with the tab on the fork leg and see if the speedo now works.

 

Thanks for the page number Chicken, I found it. Good luck on that gauge cluster, you should be able to whip through it rather easily.

 

reed switch = i was explaining how it works..