bike won't start, need help

81 750 seca.
this bike has not been driven on the road since i bougth it.
the bike always started perfecly with a push of a button while I've been working on it.
one day it stalled while runninng strated no probelm stalled again start again no problem.
I read on the forum that if you dont idle this bike high the battery will drain, figured thats what was happening.
took it apart to instail new head bearing. put it back together. Charged the battery turns over wont fire.
turned over and over and over and you see the way this is going, threatens to start once or twice then backfires.
charge battery again turns over won't fire

I have done nother mechanical to this bike since i have gottern it. just shocks bearing brakes that sort of thing . it work so well before. ideas before i tear everything apart.

 

what do the plugs look like after you crank it?

how much fuel is in the bowls? can you open the drain screws on the bowls and check the fuel height?

can you put the petcock on prime and try to start it? is the tank full? if the screen is blocked, it will do the same thing

 

I put the petcock on prime and nothing differnt. going to pack it in tonight. tommorow i will check your ideas. I don't know much about carbs but i have the book. the tank looks a little rusty inside but nothing to bad. it might be block line. will check the plugs to.

 

good luck! I will check back in the morning and see how you are doing

 

Also, check for spark on cylinders 1 and 2. Any chance that the coils were disconnected during the head bearing replacement? If so, make sure their drive wires (the two low voltage wires that feed them) didn't get swapped between the coils.

 

going to start working on it in an hour. Thanks for the suggestions.

SQLguy, did not remove any wire on purpose will check if something came lose.

First I'm going to remove the tank and check for fuel flow.

next check float bowls, not sure how to this one but will figure it out.

I guess i just use the drain plug.

dont want to take carbs off if i dont have to . any more ideas before i get started?

 

took the tank off fuel flows on prime petcoke ok

the screw on the float bowl on the left ,is well screwed cant get it open

two float bowls in the middle fuel comes out

right hand side nothing comes out.

air filter is dry

spark plug dry and all are a uniform kinda black, was one small drop on one.

the bike acutaly started for a few seconds with the tank off then loud backfire.

found a thread with similar problem, required to prime the carbs again, why would the one carb be empty.

whats the easyist way to clean carbs i dont have acces to quick parts, although will buy what i need. just want to get the bike on the road for a few days.

 

i have good spark on all 4
got the right hand side float bowl screw open has fuel
still wont be able to get the left open the screw is realy buggered.

 

sounds like your float is sticking or your screens are getting plugged up on one if it's dry

 

dont know if the float on one is dry because that's the one I can't open the screw for the drain plug on.

Is there anyway i can check the float's and screens with the carb's on the bike or do I have to remove them?

I will be doing the carb work on tuesday.

Fried the battery. left it on the charger overnight on 10amps. The battery was hot and did not charge. My fault.

 

never use a car charger on a bike battery.. spend 20 bucks and pick up a battery tender at your favorite store. they are made just for bikes and will kick off when the battery is charged up.

 

bought sea foam ,carb cleaner, and sure start, guess i will get started, canadian tire has a battery for $65, is that a good price?

 

that is about normal for a good battery.

 

as for the sticking floats, you really need to pull the cabs to check them.
you can take a screwdriver hand and lightly tap the bowls to see if that will free it up.

 

thanks, i dont want to take the carbs completly apart just yet, will let you know how it goes.

 

the battery i thought i fried was totaly dry. topped up and have on 2amp charge. Will see what happens.

Strated to take off carbs. too off the clamp screws to the air box are damaged, will have to wait untill my buddy gets home to borrow his ez out.

put seafoam in tank figured could not hurt. put about 1/4 cup for half tank, too much?

it soooo wants to start.

rechecked the petcock with tank off. fuel flow when a vacum is applied and on the on position.

bored so took off the top of the first carb on left just to see. everything nice and clean.

i am realy concerned I will screw this bike up worse when i take the carbs apart. but i guess i have no option.

hope i get to ride at least one day this year. the gesse are flying and around here that means winter is a coming.

OH well at least its hunting season.

 

I know that on my maxim I can take the bowl off with out removing the carb. Maybe you can just remove the bowl in question to check your float.
Good Luck,
James

 

thanks lowlifexj.

its pretty tight in there, i will have to take them off.

question.

if i have the tank on prime will the gas continualy flow into the carbs?
will it overfolw some where i can see, air box.
or will it go into the crank case?

have on prime and not sure if it actualy folw anware, it is leaving the tank, but not sure if it going into the carbs, or just staying in the tube.

 

Yes it will keep flowing if you leave it on prime. It will flow untill the floats close the valve. If they're stuck open (floats stuck down) than it will run out the carb and into the intake and/or the airbox depending on which one is lower.
If its not in the airbox then pull #1 plug and use a penlight or some sort of light to see down in there. You should be able to see the intake valve open as you turn the motor over. Is it wet? Is there gas running in? if so does your oil smell like gas?
What ever you find out your going to have to take those carbs off anyway I'm afraid unless tapping on the bowl works.

 

althought i said i had spark, i had check it by put a screw in the plug cap.
it then dawned on me that the plugs might be to dirty. Went and bought new plugs. Started on the first push of the button. when i pulled the old plugs the second time they where a little wet.

The bike now idels at about 1500, but will climb to about 3500 before i kill it.

Not all the time though. once it warmed up it seem to stay at about 1500.

hopefully i can hold off on pulling the carbs for a little while.

will post picks of the old sparks pretty fouled. but i have seen worse.

 

It's amazing how new plugs will improve your start-up! My idle climbs as the bike warms-up but only with the choke "on". And once because I forgot to tighten the carb boot clamps and it was drawing in air (Vacuum leak). Is your idle climbing just when the choke is applied or when it's off too? If it climbs when no choke is applied you probably have a vacuum leak somewhere so I would check by waving an unlit propane torch around the boots and carbs with the bike running. You'll hear the engine stumble if there is a leak somewhere.

Don't be afraid to take those carbs off the bike and clean out the float bowls, brass jets, and passages etc. We'll help you if you get nervous about anything. I've had mine off and cleaned a dozen times. Now it runs like a champ!

 

i took another look at it . it seems the cold start cable is not retracting with the lever. when i move the lever the unit on the carbs does not move. the cold start appered to be in a constant on position. closed it with a screwdriver. and idel came down.

I will take the carbs off. this is my first bike and i havent had a chance to ride on the rode yet. just want to get in a few days before winter starts to come here. hopefully go for my first ride on wensday. raing here hope it stops. I have to work evening shift and want to ride in the morning.

 

RickCoMatic has a great "How To" on cleaning your carbs. Search: "Clean Your Carbs The Whole Nine Yards". Get yourself an old baking pan and a grate to set over the pan so you can spray the carb parts down which will allow the junk to fall through the grate into the pan. Brake cleaner gives you more bang for the buck, is cheaper, has a better spray force, and doesn't stink up the whole garage like the carb cleaner. Just don't douse your rubber parts and seals too much with it. You shouldn't do that with the carb cleaner either. I get the walmart brand brake cleaner and it works great! Also Q-tips soaked with the cleaner work great for cleaning in the small areas.

 

thank's i saw Rickomatics thread. thats the one I am going to follow.

 

Oh yeah. Took it for a ride down the backlane. When i brake hard from about 25km, on purpose ,the bike stalls. The bike had not been warmed up to long but it did this about 3 or 4 times in a row.

Any thoughts on that?

 

First of all you're gonna wanna fix your choke. I'm not sure I understand if it's the cable that isn't conected to the idle enrichment circuit or if they're just sticking, if they're sticking again it's a carb cleaning thing otherwise you have to figure out where the cable is disconected or snapped and reconnect or get a new cable. Just about anybike will do that if it hasn't warmed up yet and the choke is off

 

what do your plugs look like now that you have replaced them? when it stalls out, are they white, dry, etc?
have you worked with the idle mix screws at all?

 

I have not worked on the idle screw. I will take the plugs out and take a look.

Midnight, the cable is hooked up. it just when you operate the choke lever the cable wont move the lever on the carbs. It s like the cable is to long. I will change it out.