stealership problem

went to talk to the dealership after them having my bike for 6 days they changed the oil and filter and charged me $55.00 cdn said they put in 4l of exs 10w 50 oil because its a air cooled bike (85 xj 700 maxim)also told me that i had a dead end carb in the low end??? what is this? told me that it would take 4 hrs of labour(at $70.00 per hour) to fix and also petcock leaks in the ON position and that they allready tried to use a re-build kit and it didnt work so i would have to replace the whole tap and that would cost $116.00 cdn. my whole trust and perspective is a bit shaken with my local yamaha dealership, $55.00 for an oil change i almost blew a gasket right there. i would rather try and fix things myself if i can, i read a few times in here people reffering them to stealership`s i think you all nailed it on the head.

what is this dead end carb?? thanks all.

 

personally i would rather try to do something myself and screw it up then re fix it the right way than give someone else my money...mechanics suck i know this personally because my stepdad owns a shop hes out their tryin to squeeze as much money out of people he can just like the rest of em..

 

yeh i would rather spend the money and buy some tools that i need to tune up my bike then at least i will have them forever and can tune my bike up when ever i want. that last bill i was reffering to came to $361.00, i could have bought an awfull lot of tools with that, well at least some decent ones.

i dont want to attack the credability of the mechanics that work at that shop but i will never take a bike there again.

totally agree with you right now am at the point where i would rather work on something myself and completely muff it up than give another penny to the stealership.

 

Please dont lump all mechanics in with a few bad ones. I have been a mechanic for many years and I have never tried to stick it to anyone. I normally try to save the customer money when I can. There are many reputable shops and mechanics out there that do the same thing. Dont say all mechanics are bad when you only have experience with a few........

 

Don't blame the tech! Blame the Dealership OWNER!

The owner's all insist that tech's are to be salesmen; too. Not only that ... but present-day dealerships are run by computer.

If the tech needs something for your bike ... he gets it from the parts-guy who looks-it-up on the computer. If he hands the part to the tech ... the part goes right on your work-order. Badda-bing!

The worst thing you can do ... these days ... is bring your bike in for a "Tune-up." By not being specific for what you want done; the door is swung wide open for them to -- ADD TIME -- to your work order. Twenty bucks worth of oil and a filter suddenly gets expensive when the -- TIME THAT THE JOB PAYS ACCORDING TO STANDARD FLAT RATES -- is added to you bill.

If and oil change "PAYS" 45-minutes. You're charged 45-minutes. Even if the tech pulls the drain plug, lets the oil drain out while he goes to lunch, and comes back and takes 10-minutes to change the filter and re-fill the sump.

If you don't understand carb theory or mechanics ... you can be told that your "Internal de-atomizer needs replacing and we have to completely strip-down the carbs to get at it" ... when a half-turn of a Phillips screwdriver tightens the clamp of a air leak.

Before you bring your bike in for any work ... sit down and let us know what you are planning to have done and why.

The many talented and highly experienced members of this forum might be able to save you some dough!

 

Here here Rick, I'm regularly contacted about problems with dealerships. Don't know how my name gets dropped but I hear about "they said I need this" on a regular basis. The consumer needs to get educated about their vehicle BEFORE they walk in so they can intelligently converse with the knuckle head behind the counter. If their angling to hose you, they will think twice when you can explain the problem and don't accept B.S.! I feel for you all, been there myself (that is the single biggest reason I do my own work). OU8, you could fix your own machine with what the good Lord has blessed you with, your brains and a determination to succeed (an opposable thumb is a good thing too). Go for it, you can do this yourself with us at your proverbial side.

 

great advice Rick i will be doing that from now on. i actually dont mind spending the money so much, its just am under the impression that am not getting what am paying for from them. i bring it in for a carb sync and tune up and all the other s***t and pay them $300.00 and i get the bike back and it runs the same as when i brought it to them when know for a fact that the bike is not running at its full potential.

and like i said am not knocking the mechanics because like you said rick i understand the structure of the way the dealership works so its not there fault

anyway enough i`ll be talkin to the knowledgable members here first before i do anything.

 

Does your petcock also leak in the RES position? Mine was ok on RES, but leaked in ON. The disc behind the valve was worn down like it had been hit with a belt sander. $8US part was all it took. You can put it in without pullng the tank or removing petcock (drain fuel first).

What are the symptoms of your "dead end carb in the low end"? I know you guys south of the border use some funny language, but this sounds like good ol BS.

The guy I bought my bike from had some work done at the stealership between when I bought and took delivery (it was flooding). They charged him $471US for oil change, plugs and carburetor cleaning. There's not a screw near the carbs that looks like the corrosion has been touched in ten years. Of course, the petcock mentioned above wasn't repaired (although it was on RES when we picked it up.) To add insult to injury the mech stated fork seals were leaking, $234+ parts to fix (no sign of oil on forks and they hold air).

You gotta watch. No offense to you dgmid61, but there are an awful lot of guys out there passing themselves as professional wrenchers that are dumber than a rock, crooked, or both.

 

You CANNOT go wrong with the xjcd.

I guarantee you that if you invest the few bucks and engage with its contents, you will be stripping and refurbishing your own carbs in no time. Colortune, float heights, synching step by step, all in lovely colour.

There's a movie :!: clip of valve shims being done plus pics and words, electrics, brakes, painting, and on and on and on...

You'll be changing the oil and filters in your sleep, and laughing into the faces of leaking petcocks.

Get the cd. You won't need Haynes if you do, and huge amounts more besides. For 10 bucks.

And ask questions here - good people, as you know.

Between the cd and the forum, I've gone from zero to - complete carb refurb incl. throttle seals and balancing; brake caliper renewal with piston, seal, and fluid replacement; wheel bearing replacement; petcock leak fixed with aftermarket kit.

It's a different and better level of ownership of the bike. My missus hates that of course... so no downside at all :twisted:

 

probably a question you`ve heard a million but here goes. who do i talk too and how do i get one of these golden cd`s i have to have it.

 

Look at the very top of this forum - the first sticky topic.

 

I understand that not everyone has great run ins with theirt local wrenches, but not all of us are like that. Some of us out here do it for a hobby and really don't chatrge close to what we should, or even charge at all. I just want people to remember that not all Mechs are bad, there are good ones out in the world today, you just have to be careful and do your homework in order to find one that is good at what they do and not looking to just make money. The mech you find should have a passion for what they do, not just a job but a lifestyle. Just my 2 cents... and now I'm broke...

 

yes it does leak in the res position in the on position it leaks real slow but in the res its free flowing so it needs fixing, the tank isnt even on the bike right now just sitting there while i decide whether or not to replace the whole tap or re-build.

what do you usually get in a re-build kit? and will it fix the leak?

this dead end carb in the low end thing i think is bulls**t and when i asked the dealer guy about it he just avoided the question like a politician and switched subjects so i never really got a answer from him

 

See if you have a cooler running pipe oin the exhaust when running, that will tell you if you have a cylinder running not up to par, then we can go from there.

 

Here is a picture of a rebuild kit.



That thing that looks like a little rubber wheel with five holes in it is the seal between the passages in valve body and the fuel valve.

You can't see it very well in the pic, but there are little ridges around the holes and around the perimiter. When these get worn fuel can leak from the PRI circuit around the seal and get out when set to RES or ON.

The parts guy at the stealership said he would have to order a rebuild kit, but to try the seal that was $8 and in stock. He said that is usually what needs to be done. He was correct.

My recommendation is to try that first.

Oh, and before anyone has heart failure, the photo above is from a Kawasaki kit.

If this had come up before garbage day I'd have a picture of a bad one for you and a Yamaha part number from the bag the new one came in.

 

Hey men ... I've had a few turns around the block. I've heard ... well, I think I've heard all the expressions for a poor-running or needs-work bike at sometime, in my days.

Can I get the "Official Interpretation" for ... "Dead end carb in the low end."

Is this supposed to be a riddle? Does this mean that either No-1 or No-4 is not tuned or has been damaged and cannot be tuned? What???

Inquiring minds need to know!

 

got me Rick like i said whatever it is they were gonna charge me 4 hrs labour @ $70.00/hour , after i said i`ll take my bike back he commented on how well the bike has been maintained for its age and it is mechanically sound and if i wanted to sell it they would buy it on the spot, i thought whats up with that????

and i might add for about $1500.00 more than i paid for it??

so sounds like a bit of a slide of hand game too me, that last visit to the dealer has really opened my eyes i think am gonna invest in so tools to do the job myself, probably need help from you guys.

 

Listen to the radio and look for a Craftsman Tool sale at Sears. They'll be marked-down for Christmas, this year, before the Halloween Pumpkin's rot.

They're usually touting a "Mechanic's Basic Start Set." In the background you see a guy in a white shirt and tie rebuilding the tranny of his wife's Miata.

They also tell you you're getting a zillion tools with the fabulous set! A NASA engineer, wearing an experimental rocket-pack, will show you the tools from the set and how they always use them on the Space Shuttle and you get CRAFTSMAN's, legendary, easy-drop, Ratchet Handle, preferred by all serious wrench's World-wide, come's right with all the rest of the zillion tools! Wow!

But, they don't tell you the set includes a guarter-of-a-zillion Allen wrenches. They count ViceGrips as two tools. Vice ... and; grips!

They're absolutely right about the Ratchet Handles; though!

You'll also receive a complete set of Standard sizes; because you never know when you'll need them.

The copy for that part of the spot should have been:

You'll also receive a complete set of Standard sizes; because "You know when you'll ever need them; never!

Not really. They do come in handy when you want to hold-down the rain cover on the the lawn mower; or let your neighbor borrow them to fix his New Yamaha Golf Cart!

All in all, there's enough of what you'll be needing. Add-in another set of Metric combo's, a couple extra Phillip's screwdriver's and the real nice Hand-Impact Tool -- and, "You'll be good to ... start breaking-off manifold Cap Screws in the cylinder head ...

... just like the rest of us did! : )

And a LARGE Oil Change Drain Pan.

Don't forget to stop-off for a bar of Lava Soap!