Clutch Throw-Out Lever Adjustment?

Guys! I've been trying to get my clutch cable adjustment right after reading Rick's How To. I'm still grinding gears and once in first, with clutch lever pulled (up on center stand) the wheel spins like crazy. I just don't understand how the clutch "throw out lever" (lever at the case) is supposed to be set. Rick says "Throw out lever end play should be reduced to Zero Lash"... but I don't know what that means or how it's supposed to feel. Or "Turn the Rod clockwise until its motion stops upon contact at the clutch." I thought I did that but obviously it's not right...hence the grinding and spinning back tire. Ha!

Thanks in advance!

Chris

 

I'm no expert but here we go


The tire will spin on the center stand... with the clutch in...


Is it creeping on you when you pull the clutch in and are sitting on it in first gear?

you might need to take the throw arm off and move it a notch or two.....

what he means by no lash is that the cable is tight no slack in it but is still all the way out...

 

With the clutch throwout shaft rotated CW (viewed from "above") as far as it will go, install the lever so its tip is pointed just behind the little rectangle cast into the cover.

Here it is on a 550: Note the relationship between the tip of the lever and the little "box" on the case.



Unlock the adjuster at the lever and screw it in or out until it's threaded in about halfway; then use the cable adjusters you see in the picture to remove ALL SLACK from the cable, and lock them down.

Then go back to the handlebar end, and screw the adjuster in just a TAD until you get maybe 2mm-3mm play at the lever, which isn't much.

If the adjustment keeps "changing" on you, it's time for a new cable.

The tire WILL spin on the centerstand even with the bike in neutral and the clutch in. Don't use that as your test.

 

Hey Fitz. My adjustment is "alright" but not great. The clutch engages at the very end of the lever being released.

I can't seem to get it to where both:

The bike shifts into first without grinding

and

the bike starts to pull forward in the beginning of the lever release. Is there a happy medium?

 

All clutches have a different friction zone.... ( point where they start to grab ) you'll get use to it.... then a different bike with a different friction zone will feel weird....

 

You can back the lever up one tooth from where I showed to get a little more throwout range. Two teeth will put it at too extreme of an angle and drastically increase lever effort.

Also, be sure all the mounting points for the cable are tight; if you have a bracket moving rather than the clutch being pulled in it can reduce effective pull as well. I never considered this as a possibility until I got my 650; on the 550s the lower cable mount is stubby and can't move or bend.

I've got the clutches on both my 550s adjusted perfectly; and they both still clunk when you drop them into first. THAT much at least is the nature of the beast.

 

i got tired of messing around with it and did this

 

Getting the "Clunk Into 1st Out"
Loosen Upper and Lower Hex Nut on Adjusting Barrel at Lower Cable end.
Move Barrel to allow Cable to be released from Throw-Out Lever.

At Clutch Perch
Loosen Lock Wheel
Screw Adjustment Knurl all the way IN.
Screw Adjuster OUT 2-1/2 Turns
Lock Knurl
Put Upper Cable End in Knurl receiving end -- Tape it from moving.

With Cable secured at the Top -- Adjust the Bottom
Turn the Bottom Hex Nut ON -- 6 -to- 8 Threads from Bottom.
Place Cable in Bracket Holder with Bottom Hex Set -- Upper Loose.
Pull Cable Sheath Tight to Lower Hex
Tighten Upper Hex down to Bracket -- Finger tight.

Pull Cable Down Tight
Cable only.
Cable end ... while Pulled Down Tight ... needs to be placed in Throw-Out Arm Receiving End Swivel.

a) Keeping the Throw-Out ROD against the Pressure Plate ... Slip the Throw-out arm off the Splines and move it to where it needs to be to get attached to the Cable.

b) Move the Throw-out Arm 1 Spline to the LEFT.
c) Fasten the Arm on the Rod
d) Place a cloth on the Arm
e) Using Locking Pliers or Adjustable Wrench -- Lever Arm over and connect cable.

Cable is tight.
Loosen Bottom Hex 1 or 2 Flats as a time until you detect The Slightest Free Play.
Remove the Free Play
Add 4 additional flats of tightness.

Lock it all down.
Test.
If the Bike still jerks into gear ... add 1 Flat tightness at a time.

 

Thanks guys! I got it to where I'm happy with it for now, but it still jerks a little when put into first. I'll keep playing until I get it perfecto.

Good Night for now!

Chris