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winterizing my bike

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by OU812didntU, Sep 22, 2006.

  1. OU812didntU

    OU812didntU Member

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    hi all i was wondering if anyone could tell me the proper precedure for winterizing my bike? everything from a-z

    and also an un-related question i have a 85 xj700 maxim(air cooled) and i was wondering which cylinder is the petcock vacuum hose hooked up too? or does it matter. it is currently hooked up to no.2, i get the impression that it is supposed to be hooked up to no.3 or does it really matter?. thanks.
     
  2. faighaigh

    faighaigh Member

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    Location:
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    Hi.

    Mine connects to No 2, don't know if it make's a difference where it fits though.

    Faighaigh.
     
  3. OU812didntU

    OU812didntU Member

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    o.k thanks for getting back to me.
     
  4. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    Winterizing, that time again?

    Lets start with the fuel. Assume you will be down about 6 months.
    Sta-bil makes an excellent fuel additive/stablizer. Add to fresh fuel, run the bike for a few minutes to get the stablizer into the carbs and top off the tank. Remove as much air as possible to minimize oxygen content which would help create rust.

    Change your oil and filter. Old oil contains blow-by gases and crud which are acidic in nature. This acid will etch parts (in particular bearing surfaces), ruining them.

    Remove your battery and place it someplace safe where it won't be tipped or tripped over. Clean the surface of the battery with baking soda to neutralize any acid that could cause the battery to drain. Plan on hooking up a trickle charger every two to three weeks to bring it up to full charge. Ensure that the fluid levels are maintained.

    Clean out the airbox and air filter. Plug the entry to the box to keep critters out.

    Plug the exhaust muffler outlets. Keeps moisture and critters out.

    Pull the plugs and, using a can of oil fog (available at better auto parts and marine supply stores), fog the cylinders. Replace the plugs. Desicant plugs are available to help absorb any moisture that may make it's way into the motor.

    Set the bike on it's center stand. If you can, block the motor so that both tires are off the ground. If not, keep an eye on the air pressure of the tires, you don't want them too low. Inflate to normal load specs.

    Wash and dry the machine. Wax all exposed surfaces. Wipe all rubber surfaces down with silicone grease.

    Flush the brake fluid. Be prepared to drain and flush the brake fluid when you get ready to place the machine back in service.

    Place a reminder tag on the ignition reminding you to remove the air box and exhaust plugs.

    Put the beast to bed for a long winters nap.

    Did I miss anything? Please feel free to chime in, I don't have to winterize any of my machines and can hardly be considered all-knowing.
     
    chris123 likes this.
  5. OU812didntU

    OU812didntU Member

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    thanks Robert just the info i was lookin for.
     
  6. Jim_Vess

    Jim_Vess Member

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    Regarding the battery, get yourself a smart charger with a "float mode" function. You can get one for around $18 at Wal-mart.

    With a smart charger you can hook it up to the battery and forget about it until you're ready to put you bike back on the road in the Spring. It won't overcharge the battery.
     
  7. skippT

    skippT New Member

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    One more note on the carbs: It's also a good idea to drain the fuel from each float bowl, even though you've got stabilized fuel in the fuel system. Less problematic when you de-winterize the bike.

    ...and on the battery: storing in a garage where the temp fluctuates is NOT a good idea. Will shorten the life of the battery.

    -Matt, CO
    83 XJ9
     
  8. OU812didntU

    OU812didntU Member

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    thanks for all the info , not ready to do this yet but when the time comes i`ll be ready. thanks again.
     

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