Winter storage

Hey guys. I live in Maine and i,am getting prepared to put my 82 maxim 750 up for the winter. I have a garage to store it in however it is not a heated garage. Is there anything special i should do before i put it away? Or anything during the coarse of winter i should do? This is the first time i put a bike away for winter so i,am kinda clueless. lol Any imput would be appreciated. Thanks

 

A fuel stabilizer shoud be added to the fuel and run through to the carbs. I like to store my bike with a full fuel tank to reduce condensation inside that can rust the tank causing problems later. The engine should be fogged with a product such as SeaFoam (which is also a fuel stabilizer) and then change the oil prior to storage. This will remove any acids that may have formed due to combustion and coat the cylinders to protect against rust. If you can't fog the engine for some reason, remove the spark plugs and pour about a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder and turn the engine over to coat the cylinder walls. The plugs should then be reinstalled. The carbs should be drained using the drain screws located in the bottom and to the side of the float chambers. The drive shaft oil could benefit from a change if it hasn't been done this season although it is not required for storage. The battery should be removed and stored in a cool (not cold) place and a charger such as a Battey Tender should be connected. If you don't have a "smart" charger, a low current charger with milli-amp capability should be applied once a month to prevent the battery from sulphating. In the spring you can install the battery, change the oil again to get rid of any moisture caused by condensation, clean the bike, turn the key and ride.

 

Make sure the gas tank is full and add SeaFoam or StaBil, some form of gasoline stabilizer. Run the bike for a short period, enough to draw the treated fuel into the carbs.
Whether or not you drain the carbs is a matter of opinion; I don't.
Pull the plugs, and shoot some engine fogging oil in the cylinders or add a teaspoon of motor oil to each. Unplug the TCI and spin the motor over a couple of times to distribute the oil. (Reinstall the plugs.)
Remove the battery and store it somewhere you can keep it trickle charged and not freeze.
Put the bike on the centerstand and prop up the frame so both wheels are off the ground, and decrease the tire pressure slightly.
Spray down everything that might conceivably rust with WD40 or similar, if you have the stock mufflers, shoot some fogging oil or WD40 into them too; and then cover it with an old sheet. DO NOT use a plastic tarp, condensation will form under it.
Leave yourself a note with everything you did and what needs to be done in the spring so you don't overlook something.

 

Bigfitz52 made an excellent point about the tires and removing the weight using the center stand. I stored my bike for several years using that method and protected them from UV and the tires didn't crack or distort in any way. I too oil down and cover as he said. Should have mentioned it but have been doing it soooooooo long it comes as second nature.

 

This will be my first year storing a bike for winter but I plan to treat it like other seasonal use engines since my winter project will take up the heated space it enjoyed last year. The bike will be inside but with no heat.
I use Stabil in the fuel as I've been told Seafoam is more of a cleaning agent than a fuel stabilizer. I don't drain the carbs as I usually find a few nice days through the winter when I can start them and let them warm up. I also have a 5hp generator that I usually don't run for a few months at a time. I keep Satbil in the fuel and have never had a problem even with fuel exceeding a year old.
I don't remove batteries, again because I start them up occasionally. If you don't plan on starting it until spring I suppose removal/storage would be a good idea.
Oil that gets changed on a usage basis (miles or hours) I change if it is past 1/2 its service life. Annual/calendar oil changes get done in the fall.
I'm considering buying one of those motorcycle covers that come in various sizes if I can find one that fits decent and if I'm convinced they will breathe adequately. Does anybody have any experience with them?

 

I have a one of those waterproof motorcycle covers and it seems to work pretty well for keeping it dry in the rain and such, but I don't think mine will be under it for the winter. Rust scares me.

 

Hi johntc
Seafoam is a cleaner but also a fuel stabilizer for up to 2 years. They have it documented on their products. There are a few issues with storing the battery in the vehicle. The chemical nature of a battery starts to change if not charged. They lose charge up to 2 volts per month sitting and the residue on the plates crystalizes from sitting. Charging stops the crystalizing and keeps the lead material soft and therefore it can produce the voltage and amperage its designed to. Starting and running the equipment may help in this area, however the engine and exhaust are seldom brought up to operating temperature for any amount of time. This only permits condensation to occur and can lead to rust and other forms of corrosion. Also the water droplets in oil can chemically bond with fuel byproducts and create sulfuric and other acids in mild concentration. Along with these factors, should the battery lose its charge for any reason Ie: a light left on, natural causes such as end of life, or accidental discharge from a short cicuit, or if only one cell dies, the battery could freeze and crack, spilling acid onto your frame. Your gamble!

 

Thanks JF but I left out a few specifics.
I do use a trickle charger on the batteries regularly and when I start one up I let it run at a high idle for 20 to 30 minutes to ensure everything gets warmed up good. If you start an engine and let it run only a few minutes you're better off to leave it alone for just the reasons you pointed out.

 

I've seen what acids in the oil from condensation can do to plain bearings. I forgot to mention the pre-mothball oil change; I always store with fresh oil, and then change it after about 800 miles or so.

Once the bike is down, it's better to leave it-- you'll never get it completely warmed up without riding it.

 

ive got a 6500w genset that i got for the Y2K issue (ya never know! that and we DO occasionally lose power) that i filled with gas in december 1999. i ran it for a little bit to make sure it was going to start and have proper output. then i shut it down...

i started it up again when we lost power throughout the mid-west in 2003. i went 3-1/2 years without any conditioner or stabilizer and once i remembered to turn the thing on with the 'low oil shutoff' switch it fired on the first pull...

ill use some sort of stabil in the bikes this year but i know the 550 will be due for a carb cleaning next spring since i had some idle issues this summer...

 

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcy ... orage.html

Good tips on how to store bikes, short and long term.

 

bigfitz, I read this somewhere else.

Pump your tires up to the maximum pressure they are rated for according to the sidewall rating by the manufacturer (usually higher than the recommended pressure you drive on by 6 to 12 PSI or so). This will help keep the tires "round" and assist in preventing flat spots.

 

Bigfitz: what is a TCI (related to ignition somehow?) and when you say "spin it over" do you mean manually turn it or press the ignition switch?

 

prock..reg spinning the engine..after you foam or put few drops of oil on each cyl..dont put the plugs back..just cover the holes with rag (dont push the rags in)and gently crank the engine..by pressing start button..this will turn the engine and oil will not spill out..but will circulate on walls. Now put the plugs back on. Thats what i do. Hope helps.
Bigfitz..Is that an good alternate...???

 

Ok thanks for clearing that up, but what is a TCI and does it need to be unplugged as well? You don't mention it but bigfitz does.

 

Unplugging the TCI is a good idea but not totally required. It is the module that takes the signal from the crank position sensor and sends the primary signal to the coils. By removing it you disable the coils and therefore don't have a spark jumping about the bike.