Not the problem... I need some advice!

I bought a new bigger battery, thinking that I didn't have a big enough battery. Would turn over but not fire not start. Hook a trickle charger up to it and it would fire right away. Everything I was reading was pointing me to the valves needing to be adjusted... Pulled the cover off and they are intake .14 and exhaust .21.. So that's not the problem... I don't know what to do now! Can anyone help me!

Katrina

 

What's the history, Katrina, was the bike running before?
what year & model?

 

also, you have to take other things into consideration when thinking about how it starts:
How long since the last oil change? How old are the spark plugs? What is the condition of the carbs?

the battery is one piece of the puzzle on these.

 

Sounds like carbs.

 

The ignition system will not work if the voltage is low. The fact that it'll start with the trickle charge attached indicates that you have a low voltage problem to the ignition.

Did you charge the new battery? Generally they need several hours at 2 amps when new.

If you're sure the battery is charged check your electrical connections. You could have dirty/corroded connections reducing the voltage.

If all else fails have the battery tested. They are sometime born "bad".

 

Carl,
mine acted acted the same as hers, but it wound up being my plugs.
I had to have a nearly full battery to get mine fired up. Anything under full and it would take a lot of work to fire. sometimes, I had to roll down the hill to start it in second.

 

I had starting and running like poo problems. Plugs and charged the battery did the trick. then it just started to run and start like crap again, so I figured I'd pull the battery and replace it. found a plug wire with no metal lead when I took the coils off. (Vmax, you have to remove a ton of crap to do anything.) so I trimmed the wires and vroom runnig great again!! I believe this failing wire was fouling a plug?! ordering new plug wires today!!

 

Katrina,
you have a low voltage condition just as Micarl stated... the trouble you are having could be in on of a few places.. start at the battery clean the connection and work your way through the electrical connection cleaning and putting down a little dielectric grease. It took me about 40 min to do mine but have not had any issues since.

 

I changed the spark plugs, I charged the new battery for 6 hours on 2 amps, this is the third battery for the bike, hence why I just decided to get a bigger one. I checked all my electrical connections when I replaced the regulator.

 

Sorry, it's an xj650 maxim 1980

 

Put your meter on the battery (when it's been off the charger for at least an hour). Check the voltage.

Crank the motorcycle and observe the voltage.

Report back your results.

 

In some cases it is difficult to isolate electrical problems, particularly on older equipment. I use a procedure called "voltage drop down the line" to help pick out problems.

For example a starter problem...

Perform a cranking voltage test as Mi Carl indicated. Put the pos probe of a voltmeter on the pos post of the battery and the neg probe on the neg post. Crank the starter. The cranking voltage should be about 10 volts. If it is lower than that, the battery has a problem or the starter is drawing to much current.

If the Cranking voltage is acceptable but you still have a problem you need to go deeper into the circuit. First you have to make sure the battery is "good" fully charged and capable of supporting the load applied to it. Start at the positive post of the battery with the pos probe of the voltmeter. Put the neg probe to the positive cable of the starter. Crank the engine and read the meter. If you see 1/2 volt or more, there is a problem in that part of the circuit .

To isolate the problem, leave the pos meter probe on the battery post and put the neg probe to the cable clamp holding the cable to the post. Crank the engine and observe the reading. Do this at each connection in the circuit being tested (IE solenoid in and out trminals, check from the cable to the stud/bolt holding it.) move the probes of the meter to the cable and the fastener at the next device. If the reading ot those individual terminals is OK, then read the drop across the solenoid or switch. Once you reach the Load (starter in this case) you check from the starter housing to the neg post of the battery. If there is more tan 1/2 volt drop in that half of the circuit then check from the starter motor to the engine block, then from the block to the frame, then from the frame to the battery neg cable, finally from the neg. battery cable to the neg post. This can be done to every circuit making sure that each switch, connection, and device is tested should a high reading be found in any of the circuits. Anytime you find a high voltage drop at a connection it indicates a loose or dirty connection if the drop is across a switch or device such as a solenoid that component should be replaced.

I know it sounds like a lengthy process but it really does pinpoint problems. I have my techs perform this procedure when we run into a problem they have trouble diagnosing.

 

Diagnosis show the starter, Thankyou everyone for you help! I am mechanically inclinded but this is my first run with motorcycles!

 

You need a "Healthy" Electrical and Charging System.

Battery. Must be able to hold a CHARGE and provide sufficient AMPS.

Alternator Brushes: Long enough to do the job. 10 mm Min. Length.

Starter Brushes: Clean. Length to Specs. Commutator free from Carbon Dust which robs current and causes shorting.