Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instruments

I recently removed the rectangular instrument panel and installed a round headlight on my 1982 750 Seca. Here are the wiring mods if you want to remove the rectangular instrument panel. You can elect to keep the original headlight or replace with a different type.

After you separate the connectors and remove the rectangular instrument panel and relocate to your work bench. Remove the back cover and you will see the wires that go to the blinker lamps, neutral lamp and high beam lamp. You don't have to make any changes to the wiring to these lamps because the wires exit directly out of the Atari and go to their own connectors. You can do whatever you like with these wires. Redirect to alternate lamps or LED's (don't forget the current limiting resistor) if you want to retain the blinker, neutral, high beam indicators.

The headlight and tail/brake light wiring is a different matter. The wiring for these go from the harness into the Atari as one color and most exit the Atari as different colors. Below I have listed the cuts/jumpers you need to do in order to reconnect the headlight and keep the tail/brake lights operational.

For the head light, there is a six conductor connector (the one with the heavier wires) coming from the wiring harness. You need three of these wires for your headlight. The black wire is ground. The yellow wire is your high beam and the green wire is the low beam. The wires coming from the headlight connector are slightly different. Connect the two black wires together for the ground and then connect the yellow high beam wire to the headlight connector's yellow/green wire and then connect the green low beam wire to the headlight connector's green/red wire.

The wires for the tail/brake lights come out of the wiring harness in the same group of wires as the headlight wires but head off to a different connector than the connector that holds the headlight wires. You can see this on the wiring diagram below. You simply need to install a jumper at the connector or remove the connector and connect two pair of wires together. For the tail light you simply connect the blue and blue/white wires together and for the brake lights you simply connect the green/yellow and yellow/white wires together.

Thats it. This should also work for the Maxim as I checked it's wiring diagram and with wire colors I described above are the same for the Seca or Maxim.

Here is a scan of the mods recorded on the wiring diagram. Looking at this will make it easier to understand my comments above.


Here is a photo of the actual wire changes. The green, yellow, black headlight wires are already insulated and head off to the headlight, but you can still see them. The tail/brake light connections are soldered, but not insulated yet.


And here is a shameless picture of my Seca with the round headlight.


Hope this helps.

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

Nicely Done! That 750 looks sexxy without the disco/custom van looking stacked headlights.

 

Nothing shameful about that picture cturek, that's a fine looking bike there I like the clean lines now with the removal of the instrument panel and installation of the round headlight.

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

THANK YOU!!! Want to get rid of the Beta Max above my bars myself. IMHO why would any company put a square headlight on a bike (let alone two :roll: )...

skillet

 

Though I am a fan of the fish finder and rectangular goodness I must say it looks pretty darn good with the big round light up front

Good work

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

OOOPS :lol: ...

skillet

 

Great thread, I had been meaning to write one up since I did the same mod last spring. adding the lines for the splices on the original wire schematics was a nice touch. I wish I had had that when I did mine. This should be a sticky. I know a lot of memebers here are constantly asking me if the rounds headligth swap and original cluster set up swap was hard or not and what mods I had to do. I think this will definetly answer a lot of questions. I will be refering this thread to others in the future.

Thanks a bunch cturek.

Eddie

 

going to be very helpful, thanks!

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

I wonder if the Auxilary low beam that was removed could be used to power a set of driving/fog lights.

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

As long as you don't exceed the wattage that the aux light consumed, you could power whatever you like. I'm at work and don't have the book, but from memory, I think the aux light drew 35 watts. Double check this and DO NOT exceed this power rating as you will burn up wiring or worse.

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

nice job!!! bike looks realy nice. Seeing that give me something to think about to do this winter.

 

Very nice post. cturek, where did you buy your headlamp? Did you have to fab a new mounting bracket, or is that the original?

 

I'd like to see a picture form the rider's POV. Nice look though. I like the painted forks and bars as well.

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

To answer your question Wesley, Yes you can power a pair of driving lights with the fog light wires, but you need to use a relay to do it.
Those wires will not support much more wattage than originally intended for. I ran two wires (hot and ground) from the battery to a relay and use the aux. light wires to trigger it on and off. That way the power comes directly from the battery and not thru those aux. light wires.
The stock switch will last only if you use a relay, other wise it would get too hot and melt with extra lights.

 

Hey, this helped me soooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much, thank you for posting it.

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

Justifidejoe- The 7" headlight is from a 79 CB650. It fitted right to the existing Seca's brackets. I did have to modify that back of the bucket a little to clear the ignition switch and some wiring.

Cannondale- I leaving for a fishing trip in the morning, but can post a picture from the riders POV on Monday.

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

Nice write up. I was going to look at changing the light to round. Thanks! Now you have me wanting to remove that ugly rectangle cluster.

Does anyone have any pics of there bikes with custom clusters/spedo's/tachs?

I'd like to see some to get some of the ideas rolling.

I'm pulling the motor this weekend to fix some exhaust studs and re-wire pick coils. So I might as well add to the to-do list!

Thanks!

Jason

 

I really like what you have done.
Getting-rid of the Nintendo Cluster deserves a tip of the Cap.

Since its your Project and YOU have been so close to it, ... YOU don't see your Finished Job like others do.

I looked at the nice photo you took of the Bike and wondered if you were really done or were going to leave it like that.

I would like to suggest you add a few more details to make it a Work of Art.

One Rule of Thumb to consider.
Anything BLACK on a Bike that AIN'T Black L@@KS like it hasn't been painted yet.

 

I really like what you have done.
Getting-rid of the Nintendo Cluster deserves a tip of the Cap.

Since its your Project and YOU have been so close to it, ... YOU don't see your Finished Job like others do.

I looked at the nice photo you took of the Bike and wondered if you were really done or were going to leave it like that.

I would like to suggest you add a few more details to make it a Work of Art.

One Rule of Thumb to consider.
Anything BLACK on a Bike that AIN'T Black L@@KS like it hasn't been painted yet.

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

Thanks Rick. No, I don't consider the Seca at 100%. There are cosmetic issues I still need to address and also I need to go back and redo some of the items I refinished early on in the project. The PO had painted many of the parts black already (passenger peg brackets, fork emblem, rear grab bar etc.). Early on, I sanded and repainted these items, but like you say, I really should now go back and remove the paint and polish the alloy. Still need to do more polishing on the motor case and refinish the fork bottoms. It's difficult now because I like riding it every chance I get.

Cannondale:
Here's a picture from the rider's POV. PLEASE note that the green panel for my blinkers/high beam/neutral lights is just temporary. I made it up so I can pass inspection here in April.

I'm currently working on an LED tachometer. I found a simple, VERY inexpensive circuit that will make a circle of 20 LED's into a tachometer. I have the parts (total under 20 USD) and am putting it together on the breadboard first. I will mount the LED's, along with the indicator LED's into a round instrument in place of my temp panel that will match my round speedo.

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

cturek,
You got my attention about the LED tach! Sounds very intruiging. Keep us posted on your progess then, please? PD

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

I like your thinking here mate.

I'm real keen to change the display on my seca. I'm thinking a neat little LED lineup, i'll cut a piece of aluminium to line them up.

Can you explain the resistor that is required for the LED's?

Do you need one for each diode? or do you run them all through it?

cheers

keep us up to date

 

LED Tachometer Information:

Complete Illumanited Tach:
http://lumitach.com/

Schematic for Kit:
http://www.t-r-j.com/Auto/Tach/tachometer.htm

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

Jonathon:
An LED needs to have a current limiting resistor in series with the voltage source to keep from damaging the LED. You size the resistor based on the electrical specs of the LED and the voltage you are going to feed it.

Rick:
Thanks for the links. The circuit I found is very similar to the one you linked to. Mine uses the two LM3914 LED drivers but uses an LM555 as the high speed counter. (Jonathon, you don't see any limiting resistors because they are built into the LM3914 ICs) I like the one you linked to better because it gets it's trigger signal from the original tach wire that I already have but being unused. The circuit I'm building get's it's trigger inductively from a wire wrapped around a plug wire.

Here's a pic of the partially constructed circuit on the breadboard showing the two LED driver chips and the high speed counter chip. Pay no attention to the color of the LED's - they are just ones I had on hand and will be better selected if the circuit works.

 

Hi all: I'm new here and luv the site so far. lots of great info. I'm working on a friends "83 xj750. It had a round headlight on it and he took it off and had me put on a factory square one. The trouble I'm having is the headlight doesn't work and neither does the fog lamp. I checked the voltage and I'm only getting about 5-6volts to the plug. Could it be a major ground issue or am I missing somthing simple? Everything worked when he took the round headlight off....I've found stuff on the other way(square to round) but not this particular problem..
thanks

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

Greetings All:
I've removed my square headlamps for a round one months ago with out any issue, but I had still had the original cluster. I just removed the cluster for a mini speedometer with indicators and followed this write up and the wiring diagram from the manual to get all the indicator lights to work. Problem is the light will only come on when I turn the high beam switch on. But when it is off it shows voltage to the low beam wire. What in the world could I be missing or doing wrong?

Thanks,

Jason

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

Alright Gang:
Still having my issue. Could the low beam of the light have gone out and only leaving the high beam to work? I thought it was all or none with these old lamps. But, if that could be the case I guess... I'm just lost since it is showing voltage to the low and then when I hit the switch for highs it shows voltage to that wire. But the light will only come on when High is engage.

ALSO,I took it to the car battery and hooked up the low wire, nothing. High wire and it is sunlight. Guessing bad lamp?
Thanks all,

Jason

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

Jason - sounds like a bad bulb to me also (there is a separate filament for both low and high beams). Did you get a round headlight with a replaceable H-4 bulb or is it a "sealed beam"-type of headlight? If not a H-4, you might want to get a replacement unit that has a replaceable bulb (similar to what was in the rectangular OEM headlight). Easier to replace; less expensive to replace; easy to find.

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

Zap, it was the lamp. It is the sealed type. Pain in the butt to replace. But done and working again.

Thanks!

JB

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

Awesome Cturek! This is one of the most useful posts I have come across on this site. The headlight/ tailight wiring worked out wonderfully when I installed my Acewell 3251. Just one question though, when all is said and done with that particular group of wires, I am left with a white wire that comes from the rectifier. Is that just a sensor wire that I can dead end, or does it need to attach to something else?

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

I wish I could see those pictures

 

Nice post dude, this is exatly what I am working on right now. When you took the atari (that is the fairing right) I noticed you don't have the front turn signals on yet. Mine are mounted on the fairing bracket and I'm trying to find a way to remount those. Where did you get the headlight? I appreciate this post it will help me I know.

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

seriously dude,
thanks so much for your post. i've wanted to remove my atari since i got the bike and was recently pushed into the deep end due to a failed speedo. here comes vapor speedo install, not too bad for someone who sees electronics as kryptonite. adding dashboard w/blinkers and neutral was definitely intimidating but your post and pics gave me the courage to press forward.
1 monster energy drink later, everything works! well, kinda have to troubleshoot why my neutral lite stays on regardless of gear and i've not figured out my hi beam indicator lite yet but i've got blinkers, brake and running lights, headlight, and my bike starts....woohoo!
thanks again.

 

update...
everything works, PERIOD!
i am the KING OF ALL ELECTRONICS!
actually, i have a lot of ugly splices and dubious connections but who's asking anyway?
tomorrow i'll solder the connections and fit w/shrink tube and such.
i hope to post pics of my project soon so you guys can show off your jealous side.....

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... tml#343313

Bringing an old one back from the dead!!! :twisted:

I just followed the directions from this swap and it worked like a charm on my '82 XJ750 MAXIM (swapped for the factory round headlight from an '83 XJ1100). Only took my about 45 minutes.

I think some of the wiring is a little bit different on my model though because I couldn't get the rear foot brake to light up.

 

Re: Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instrum

Same thing here. I think I found the right wire related to my rear foot brake. I've put some time on this last winter. I'm running out of time and hope to complete my wip next winter...

 

teddytedted I can't tell you how much time I have spent trying to figure out the wiring for the headlight/brake light over the last couple days. Once again you have saved the day!

Outstanding write-up. This post and the wire diagram have been bookmarked and saved along with a collection of other life savers from the Wizards!

You guys are my teacher, the forum my classroom, the threads my textbooks, and for the first time I love doing the homework!

 

I'm in the process replacing the rectangular set off my 82 with a set from an 85. The first thing I did was enlarge a wiring diagram. It sure is easier than using a magnifying glass.




Then I identified all of the wires going into the new cluster.



Now I'm identifying wires from the bikes harness, removing the connectors that don't match up (none of them do) and splicing into the new connectors. It's a little more complicated because I going to use the fuse block on the new cluster and eliminate the one under the seat.


Good luck.

 

Is that the same for this little square ugly thing???

 

I would like to learn how to remove this box and relocate the key starter under neath the tank....could i just take it off shorten the wires and make a mounting bracket underneath my gas tank i want to know more before i start doing it i cant read them diagrams at all so if anybody had any pics of how there bikes are set up with minimal wiring with turn signals that would be awesome

 

Well, I can totally appreciate all the effort going into figuring out the conversions, but I don't care at all for the look of the 750 Seca without the cluster nor the round light.

As far as the '85 cluster....... You ARE aware that cluster is for a Maxim X, right? Also, for all the trouble, why don't you make sure to use gauges that are not faded out?

 

Yes, I put the 85 X forks and instruments on the 82. Yeah faded, but it's what i have. It took awhile to realize I wouldn't need the temp gauge. Maybe I'll put a clock in there. Hogfiddles, I messaged you about your shim pool.
Thanks

 

Why couldn't I find this 6 months ago, I went through the process of getting a wiring diagram cutting wires and making it work

 

Great job on the bike mate I'm going for the same look did you find any engine problems when you disconnected the atari I tried to do the same thing defiantly not as well as you but if the atari wasn't connected the engine wouldn't run right. Is there something that needs to be bypassed?

 

He hasn't been on since 2013. See my reply in the thread where you originally asked this question.

 

I need some help guys I did exactly what the diagram showed me to do and now my tail lights are on constant and I still have no brake glow

 

You swapped the brake and taillight wires around.

 

OK maybe you can be able to explain which wires should be tied together I have the y-y/g the g-g/r and the b-b for the brake and the l-lw for the tail light

 

Did you jumper G/Y to Y/W on the 6-pin connector? That's the brake light circuit. B-B (same connector) is for the headlight.

 

Ya I jumped them together