Whats in here???

Okay I know it is probably a stupid question but before I go opening it up I want to know what is inside. I'm almost positive it is the alternator/generator thingy but you'd never know. All I want to do is take this cover off and polish it. Can anyone enlighten me?

http://xjbikes.com/uploads/forums/alt_i_think.jpg

 

right you are, but it's got wires attached to it for the brushes
sometimes their real tight
might as well replace those brushes while you in there
go easy the stator is right there and you don't get those at wal-mart

 

if you remove the alt cover replace the gasket too.
and I agree with polock when he says to check/replace the brushes

 

You also have a bad needle/seat or an old bowl gasket in at least one of your carbs, and that can mean only one thing - - check your valve clearances first !! Buy a valve cover gasket. Then proceed on to carbs.

 

TIME is right, that's fuel leakage staining on the cover. You can clean the stain off with some gas on a rag, since that's what it is.

All the above advice about the alternator inside the cover is spot-on.

 

Your fuel petcock is leaking. Feel under and behind the petcock with your fingers and I bet it is wet.

 

Before pulling the Cover ... wash the Engine.
Park the Bike on the Center Stand.

Blow on some Talc
Look for the Origin of the Leak

 

I am with zrttod, its the petcock leaking because I have been there a few times and done that over and over.

 

Thanks for all the advice. I think I'll leave that cover on 8O and clean it there. The stain is an old one and carbs and petcock have since been redone.

 

You have good reason to remove the cover- - that's how you check your brush length and clean the contact surface on the internal rotor so that part of your charging system is then "done".

As far as an old stain on cleaned carbs ( ??? )
If you clean it and it re-stains in 3 weeks, you're looking at bowl gaskets.

 

The charging system is fine and I'm of the school of thought that says "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". I only want to clean the cover, not the charging system. I just thought I'd do a better job of it if it was easy to take off.

 

"If it ain't broke; don't fix it" ... does not apply to INSPECTIONS!

"Oh, I don't need to replace my Fuse Panel; the old ones fine!"
(Wrong answer)

You very simply undo 3 Cap Screws and lift-back the cover.
Shine a flash light inside the Cover and INSPECT the Brushes.
They either are good, ... and you need to do nothing.
>Or ...
They are in need of being replaced and you are aware.

Beats watching cars zoom-by you at the side of the road because you think a worn-out cliche' is license for not pulling maintenance that's required to keep you rolling.

 

I'll agree with Rick on this one (ask me about my starter brushes some day). You NEED to know where you are at on those Alternator brushes. If you ignore them, you will run into trouble sooner rather than later.

 

Pay heed Dermot! RickOMatic and Robert know of what they speak. Besides, now that you've been warned you just know they are going to fail soon!

 

Rick and Robert are absolutely right; but this applies to more than alternator brushes.

When you take over a 20+ year old bike, certain things HAVE to be inspected at the very least, to prevent future disaster. Just ignoring it and waiting for it to fail WILL bite you. Those items include (but aren't limited to

Valve clearances. Run 'em tight for too long you'll burn a valve.
Rear brake shoes. A delamination at road speed can crash you.
Fusebox. Fuse clips can and will just break for no reason and you're stuck.
Front brake calipers, pads, hoses, M/C. (For obvious reasons.)
Brake fluid REPLACED. (Gotta do it.)
Tires: Check date codes, replace if over 4-5 years old.

"If it ain't broke don't fix it" DOES NOT APPLY to a 20+ year old bike.

 

You know you lot have put the heebee-jeebees on me. Now I know those brushes are going to break down probably when I'm furthest from home.

I GIVE IN!! I'll check them tomorrow. BUT if I break something in the process, I will look for all of you and I will find you. :twisted:

As for your list Bigfitz. All the above have been checked.

Also have checked all bearings including the swingarm bearings. Have to say though someone has been at this bike before as there is loads of new stuff in it including bearings, driveshaft uni joint and brakes. I won't be surprised if those brushes are new when I open the cover.

 

The piece of mind you will create with this simple act will be priceless Dermot. Check the starter brushes too.

 

You are trying to piss me off aren't you? Next thing you'll be telling me to check is the amount of wear on the laughing shaft were it hits the giggling pin.

I've been down with the flu for the past day or two (don't think its the Swine variety) and the bike has been sadly neglected. Hopefully I should be well enough to check those brushes tomorrow.

 

I also polished the copper table with a metal polish till it shawn like the parts in my carb. It's working great!

 

I don't think so - the starter motor really does have brushes!! In laymans terms, thats how electricity gets from the static part to the rotating part. My manual devotes three pages telling you how to overhaul the starter motor.

I think the previous posts are just emphasising how pi***d off you would be if you were on a long ride when the lights just get dimmer and dimmer. Eventually, the battery voltage will fall below the level at which the electronic ignition will function. thats when you grind to a halt.

My bike has had the opposite problem - too much charge to the battery as a PO fitted the wrong regulator - and I've been cooking the battery!!!

 

Bigfitz52, from what you said in your previous post
"Valve clearances. Run 'em tight for too long you'll burn a valve." does that mean the valve clearance decreases over time/mileage?

Thanks,

Rich

 

Markie: I do know what the brushes in both alternator and starter do. However I've worked on all my own cars and bikes most of my life. I wouldn't check these things unless there was a problem. Though I do appreciate as these are old bikes, it is no harm to go through the lot. I'm not giving out, just having a bit of a laugh.

pankyb1261: The reason why a valve would burn if the clearances were too tight is because the valve wouldn't close fully or for a sufficient time. When this happens the seating can get burned as it could be exposed during the combustion stage. Once the seating is burned, it won't seal the cylinder properly during the compression stage. This will lead to a loss in compression and poorer performance.

A valve clearance may increase or loosen due to wear in the cam lobe, shim, rocker or whatever is driving the valve on a specific engine. Valve clearance could decrease due to overheating of the valve at some stage and expanding it.

So it really does depend on what happens to the engine during its lifetime to govern whether valve clearances may increase or decrease. Also the design of the engine and the metals used to make it could make it prone to do one or the other. In other words, why valve clearances change could be due to any number of factors. Checking them regularly keeps the clearances right.

 

Thats told me! I overheard a couple of pensioners talking the other day. #1 said "I've just been swimming"
#2 "Thats nice are you keeping active?"
#1" Well I don't have a bath"
#2 "Don't you?"
#1" I have, but I was being funny"