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Trying to replace shift forks

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by vanee, Oct 2, 2006.

  1. vanee

    vanee New Member

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    I have a 85 maxim 700. The problem is the shift fork for 2nd gear, at first I just couldn't use 2nd gear but now I can't get it past 2nd gear. I have done the check for debris from the chain tensioner and can find none. I have pulled the engine and am getting ready to split the case. I am hoping that I can get some advice before I start the process. I need to remove the starter and generator, then do I remove the clutch, and start the bolt removal bolts, 1 to 39 in order from highest to lowest, I have cardboard ready for the bolts to place in the correct number. Any advice would be great. I have the XJCD and am working from that.
     
  2. Fraps

    Fraps Member

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    Sounds like you are well on your way. There is a specific tightening and likewise loosening pattern but if you just try to maintain "even" tightening or loosening you should be okay. Criss cross patterns, starting from the outside working your way in will do. When I replaced my 2nd gear fork, I removed the clutch. I think you will also need to remove the output shaft and the torx bolts holding it in. Make sure you have the correct tools. Many people try to get away with an allen wrench instead of torx - this will only lead to heartache. For reinstallation, be prepared to determine your backlash and set the shims. You may want to read a bit on this before you get started to get some confidence.

    Hope this helps you. I would suggest taking some pics of the engine before you start - you never know...
     
  3. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Don't get intimidated, by the volume of work you are doing, to replace the shifting fork. Do your "Spec's-Checks" as you go. Then, you won't have anything surprise you when you're reassembling the plant.

    Don't concentrate on just that Shift Fork; either. When you crack cases; you're someplace where you don't want to visit, again, ever ... if you can help it.

    Chains, guides and the Starter Clutch should be on your list of things to have a real close looking-at while "You're in the vicinity" ... so to speak!
     
  4. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    Get replacement guides and a clutch rebuild kit while your going in. Ounce of prevention stuff.
     
  5. vanee

    vanee New Member

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    Well I have got the case split and the problem was obvious, the number 1 shift fork is broken in half, and the number 2 shift fork seems to be bent alittle bit. I am going to replace all 3 of the shift forks. The gears all look ok not sure of the chain guide yet. Splitting the case really wasn't to bad, alot better than I thought it would be (but then it's not back together and running yet). Anyone have advice on where I should get replacement parts from. I am going to replace the clutch also, and any other parts that look worn.
     
  6. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Since you saved yourself a bundle of dough doing all that work by yourself ... I would recommend that you belly-up to the Parts Window at a Dealership ... or, order what you need from a Dealer that does high-volume Internet sales.

    You'll get a good feeling, using some brand-new, real-McCoy's ... rather than gambling on aftermarket or used.

    That's what I do. When the engine is all over my floor and bench because I need some forks or a second gear somebody wrecked ... I damn sure don't want to have to retrace my steps because the parts I used can't hack it!
     
  7. Danilo

    Danilo Member

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    Strongly recommend you replace the Primary chain.. and the Cam chain while the engine's apart. Test the Primary.. remove it, and lay it flat onna table the top half should sag but NOT touch the lower bit.. If it does you gotta buy a new one, no if's or but's.. BUT they are Expensive :) Cam chain is easier if you can twist it sideways, even a little, it wants replacing, these at least are cheapish OEM.
     
  8. HooNz

    HooNz Member

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    Primary chain guide , the guide the guide , replace it even if it looks ok , and if i was there i'd check the clearance for the con rods shells [use plastigauge] , 1/2 hour job or so but you'll have peace of mind , since your "in there".
     

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