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reinstalling valve cover gasket paper

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by vince1230, Dec 25, 2009.

  1. vince1230

    vince1230 Member

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    I have a 1981 xj 650. It had a small leak coming from the valve cover. I took off the valve cover. After using this great website, I checked and adjusted the valve using shims. I have two questions. Question one is how much play should be on the cam chain and how do I tighten it. And secondly how do I reinstall the gasket. Should it be installed dry, with sealer, or with oil. All of the forums talk about a yics cover and mine is not a yics. Thanks for your help and Merry Christmas.
     
  2. jdoggsc

    jdoggsc Member

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    i had the same question. I took my cover off several times over the summer to change my valve shims, but just put the new gasket on without lubing it or anything. it got oily (more oily each time i took it off) and i just kept putting it back each time. it never leaked, but i don't know what comes recommended, so i want to hear what more experienced guys here say about it. it didn't really make sense to use a sealer (even though i bought one for this purpose) because i knew i would be taking it off so much.
     
  3. TIMEtoRIDE

    TIMEtoRIDE Active Member

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    Starting with a clean valve cover and a new gasket, you lightly glue the gasket to the valve cover, then smear a thin film of grease to the head side of the gasket.
    Now you have some control of the gasket, and can re-use it for years until it rips eventually.
     
  4. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Since the Cam Cover Gasket fits with such nice precision and needs to be treated such that you can remove the Cam Cover and not damage the Gasket when doing adjustments and inspections, ... take your time getting the New one on just-right and it will last you for years.

    Get the Cover meticulously clean where the Gasket will fit.
    Make sure the Gasket "Lip Locating Channel" is thoroughly cleaned.

    Clean the Channel and where the Gasket goes surgically clean.
    Get your Mom's Elmers Glue.
    Cut a Carb Cleaner Tube's end at a 45-Degree angle.

    Smear >> Lightly Coat >> Lightly apply.

    Smear some Elmers in the Channel using your Handy-Dandy Carb Tube which fits the channel Like a glove.
    Don't waste time.
    Get the Gasket Mounted in there and Position it before the Elmers dries.
    SEAT the Gasket.
    Wipe-off any Elmers the oozes out on to a moist Paper towel you have tucked into the band of your pants.
    Position the Gasket PERFECTLY!
    Let dry.
    Good show.
    Now, get an artist Paint Brush.
    Paint the Gasket with a nice thin coat of Oil.
    Paint the Engine Surface where the Gasket will touch with a thin coat of Oil.
    Put the Cover on and POSITION IT.
    Tighten down ....>>>> Slowly! Letting the Gasket SPREAD-OUT as you Tighten.
    Torque to spex
    It will NOT leak.
     
  5. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Rick; that's for a YICS cover, he has the flat paper gasket (non-YICS 650.)

    Either put it back together "dry" (OK, oil permeated) or "glue" the gasket to the cover using gasket sealer, and oil the mating side, as TIME suggested.
     
  6. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Rubberized Cement the Gasket to the Cover and Oil the Mating Surfaces.

    Your Bike likely has a NON-Automatic Timing Chain Tensioner.

    Before you place the Cover back on top of the Engine; LIFT the Timing Chain straight up off from the Guide Bridge between the two Cams.
    If the Chain isn't tight and does lift you have to Manually Unlock the Tensioner and move the Pall against the Rear Guide to lessen the slack in the Chain.

    (You might want to consider upgrading that Tensioner to the AutoMatic type. There are Bikes being parted on the Forum.)
     
  7. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Yep, you have the "manual" cam chain tensioner. Here's the procedure:

    Remove the LH crankcase end cover and turn the crankshaft CCW until the "C" mark on the plate lines up with the pointer.

    On the tensioner (behind the cylinders, look from RH side) there is a bolt with a locknut. Using a 12mm deepwell socket, loosen the locknut. Then using a 10mm socket, loosen the bolt slightly. You will probably hear an audible "click" although sometimes not. Rap smartly on the tensioner from the other side, just to be sure it's not stuck.

    Tighten the bolt to 51.6 IN/lb and then tighten the nut to 78 IN/lb. (That's only 4.3 ft/lb and 6.5ft/lb respectively.) That's it.

    Don't forget to put the crankcase end cover back on.
     
  8. 1FASTHOE

    1FASTHOE Member

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    why not gasket glue ? thanks
     
  9. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I use Permatex/NAPA spray gasket sealer for about everything. You can "decant" some into a handy disposable container and apply it with a brush too.

    Ten minutes out of the can it is the stickiest stuff on the planet and will actually stick THROUGH oil and not leak.
     
  10. 1FASTHOE

    1FASTHOE Member

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    Permatex, thats the name i was looking for...thanks fitz
     
  11. vince1230

    vince1230 Member

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    Thans everyone!!!! The cam chain is tight and valves are in spec. The valve cover is now on and hopefully I wont have a leak. This site has been so informative. I am glad I read other posts that helped me fix the leak at the tach and also the valve cover. I would have thought the leak was closer to the head gasket. This site and you guys are awesome...
     

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