oil filter question

is there an oil filter that i could get from the local auto parts store that will work in my 82 550? a model number would help, all of the bike shops have to special order them and i really need to change my oil. ive tried searching but cant find anything that just says fram model xxx will fit or something like that.

 

Both FRAM and STP make Oil Filters for our XJ-Bikes.

They INCLUDE new O-rings right in the Box.

 

is that something i could get at like autozone? do you know a part number?

nevermind, i found it in their catalog.

for convenience for anybody else, here is a list of fram oil filters for every model:

FRAM oil filter model list

 

Take another look; a search on "fram and oil and filter" yields tons of hits.

To answer your question, you want a Fram CH6003. You may need to have the auto parts store order it as well, but it shouldn't be anywhere near as expensive as the bike shops. Some folks say they've found them at Wally-Mart, but that's not been my experience.

Another option would be to hit up Chacal for a spin-on adapter kit; you can use standard Purolator car filters that way, or he also stocks K&N and Amsoil filters for those. It's more expensive, but at least you won't have to worry about stripping the filter bolt.

 

Another vote for Chacal's spin on adaptor kit. It's great!

mikeg

 

me and the kid at advance looked all over for that ch6003 till the old timer told us it was a small engine filter in the other isle, there it was plain as day

 

ill try that, i went to 3 different shops and nobody has it ive been stuck without my bike for like a week its not cool.

also i would go the spin on filter adapter route but i need to save any money for a front brake rebuild that is desperately needed

 

Man! If it wasn't for money and priorities couldn't we have fun...

skillet

 

My experience was exactly like Polocks.

Advance Auto was the only place in my town that had it in stock.

 

Here in SE Michigan not only Advance Auto but some AutoZone stores as well as Murrays/O'Reilly stock them-- but only in SOME stores. I've even picked one up at Meijer before. It's a crapshoot.

Call around looking for the FRAM CH6003; somebody MUST have one.

 

what does he charge for the kit, i might order one for myself...

 

so after calling something like 30 different stores i finally found some mom and pop bike shop 20 miles away that had one. ended up getting the k&n equivalent after realizing nobody has the fram one. but then to my dismay i go to change the oil and find the oil filter cover bolt is already pretty badly stripped, and my attempts to get it off with a vice grips only made it worse. so now after spending so much time hunting down an oil filter i cant even put it in.

AND to make things worse when i drained the oil my heart almost stopped, what came out was around only 1.5 quarts of dark black oil that was almost as thin as water. so i need to find a shop that will extract that bolt for me and get a replacement as soon as possible so i can get the old filter out of there and change the oil again.

what the hell why would you put a bolt that stripped back into your bike, and for that matter wheres the rest of the oil that should have been in there???

 

They start at about $55ish and go up from there. HCP1284xx is the part number, where xx = the filter used (Purolator, K&N, Amsoil).

1) Who knows where the oil went -- okay, the Shadow Knows.

2) Roommate had a similar problem recently with removing the oil pan drain plug from his girlfriend's car -- bolt head was rounded off. He ended up filing a couple of flats onto it and breaking it loose with a wrench. You could maybe try that, or perhaps one of those bolt extractor sockets that you can get at Sears might do the trick -- no guarantees, though.

And I do believe Chacal sells replacement bolts.

3) Why put it back in? Because the PO was cheap, maybe?

 

well i got a new filter cover bolt from chacal, the xj jesus, and now i need to get the old one out somehow by tomorrow since i cant take my car to school starting monday - the bike has a parking permit while the car doesn't.

whats the oe bolt made out of? im going to try and find somebody on craigslist who can weld one of my cheap wrenches onto it so i can drive it like that home and break it in my garage.

 

The bolt itself is steel, and more than just a bolt. It's hollow, and contains the oil pressure relief valve.

If you need to use the bike before you can get the filter bolt dealt with, just change the oil, but remember it will take only about 1900CCs instead of the usual 2200CC+ so don't overfill it and create a new problem.

Be sure not to overtighten the new bolt. It has the torque spec cast into the filter housing (in NMs) but as you've discovered nobody ever pays attention to it.

Filter bolt: 15nm= 132in/lb= 11ft/lb. NOT SUPER TIGHT.
Drain plug: 31ft/lb

Here's a little trick I use that seems to help, both with installation and removal next time: I apply a small smear of chassis grease or brake lube (whatever is easier to grab, no preference) to the underside of the bolt's integral head "washer" to make it easier to turn the bolt in/against the housing.

Also: Order a few drain plug crush rings, replace at least every other oil change-- it makes getting the drain plug out much easier.

And in answer to the question you will post once you get it apart: The filter goes with the concave side "out" (toward the front) the flat side goes against the motor, and the spring/washer go on the bolt first, to push the filter against the motor.

 

+1 for schmuckaholic advice.

grind down a flat spot on two sides,try to make them the same,
make them fit a 6 sided socket. Not a 12 - that will just round
out again.Get the biggest rachet/socket you can find for leverage.

If the fit is done right it should good and tight, so dont be too
gentle on the first yank,you want to bust the hold with a solid
pull. Not so hard you snap off the top of the bolt, just a good sharp
yank.After that it should turn easy unless it's cross threaded.

But that will be a new thread on retapping the hole.

good luck and TAKE YOUR TIME! DO NOT RUSH THIS.

 

I've said it before and I'll say it again. Invest the $20.00 in an impact driver. When I got my first bike in 1970, this was considered to be the one tool every bike owner should have . A twisting force on the hand grip and a striking force on the end will loosen most fasteners. I have been a forklift mechanic/service manager and this tool has been indispensable over the years.

 

One of the most used tool with my XJ and old Volvo :lol:

 

I know advance here in wisconsin has them... get mine there... but the kids that work there don't know much about anything. Ask them if they have muffler bearings, they'll ask "what make, model and year is it for?" True to the bone story.

 

Heres one for you.
Went to Lowe's yesterday, asked for an impact driver.
1st guy did'nt know what it was.
2nd guy took me to air tools. when I explained what I really
needed he had no idea.
3rd person had a funny look on her face. I asked to speak
to someone that knows tools-she said that was her and took
me straight to a torque wrench. I pointed out the diff and she
just shrugged her shoulders.-never did find the driver.

 

i finally got the filter cover off. took it to a shop a couple blocks away from my house i didnt even know existed, which im glad i know about now. he had to weld a bolt on to it 3 times to get it off because it kept breaking off since it was so overtorqued. and he only charged 30 bux so it was pretty decent.

what a relief. i put in the new bolt and thought it looked funny with the shining new bolt with the dirty cover. i tried taking a picture but it was too dark.

 

BIG +1 on the "impact driver" I bought mine in 72, still have it, still my GO TOO tool.

I found one at Northern Tool for $11.00
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/ ... 6882_36882
Here’s one at Sears for $25.00
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 0511x00001

How many of you have had to drill a Phillips (X point) screw off?
NOT ME (every once in a while IF a PO has been busy) and I bet FJStewart hasn’t either!

PLUS it takes a 3/8” socket
PLUS you don’t have to wait for your air pressure to build.

ab