rear fenders x model vs regular

Has anyone ever swapped a regular 700 fender and put it on a x model . part numbers are not the same but this has the grab handle and all the side rails with it . i have the stock rear fender and the x rails but no grab bar so if the fender will bolt up i would be in business thanks

 

I would be inclined to think the fenders would interchange,if they were both XJ700 Maxim fenders. They may carry different numbers for different colors (?).

 

Yes, fenders are interchangeable.
I'm sure Danno is right. Diff numbers for diff colors.

 

i guess i will give it a shot . in the parts book the x is differant then the n does not show painted but doesnt mean they are not . the n fender is 50 bucks more grab rail is the same number but not sure if the rear seat is . usually on the painted parts the first 3 numbers are the paint code the whole numbers are way off i guess the rail alone is worth 60 bucks . im gonna go out and see exactly what is in the box of parts that came with it . i never even opened it thanks guys will let you know

 

It has been years since I had my 85 X,but I seem to remember that the X had a different texture to the seat cover than the air cooled 700 had. I think the X had more buttons on the seat,and more of a "pillow look".

 

Your absolutely correct my seat has buttons on it. I am returning it back to stk someone had turned it in to a bobber . he gave me all the stk parts he pulled fender x side rails blinkers fud flap ect .but he sold the rear grab rail. i bought some parts from a guy on here he had a complete rear fender assy with seat blinkers everything . the grab rail cost over double what he is asking for the whole thing my blinker stems are taped up tail light is missing .so its definately worth the money mine even has new paint here are a few pics the fender assy is 60 bucks . what a deal

 

Nice score cutlass.
The seats look to be in good shape, but if you buy a seat cover from B&H, you'll get the buttons built in to make it look like original
http://www.motorcycleseatcovers.com/index.htm

Here's mine with the "long grain"
http://s288.photobucket.com/albums/ll16 ... =Seat1.jpg

About $95

Then you just need to find the little Xs for the side rails

 

hey mike my rear seat is in good shape . i finally looked in the box that came with the bike .along with baffles 5 valve carb emblems 1 i broken turn signals fender the front fender has a few scratches but can always repaint it no tail light but for 60 bucks thats less then 1/2 the price of the grab rail alone . even has crash bars in the box . i have to strip the maxim x rails someone painted them to match the bike yuk the look terrable . I hope to finish my garage over the weekend have the ultamate work bench now 11 ft long peg board all the way to the ceiling 2- 4 ft 4bulb t8 lights . even hooking a computer up out there tomorrow for easy parts look up . then i have an 89 virago to strip and get ready for ebay then i will start on the maxim looking forward to that . im trying to make room between all the plants out there for the winter 4 bikes the race car doesnt leave me much room

 

My grab rails were in pretty rough shape when I started too.
I stripped the clear, and polished the high spots.
Then I taped that off and glass beaded the recessed area for contrast.
It worked pretty well, but polishing and masking the lettering is a PIA.

It looks like the bike is in great shape except for the mis-placed paint. She'll fix up real good.
damn....now you're giving me the itch to go out and work on my spare engine

 

if mine looks 1/2 as good as yours i will be very happy. you put alout of elbo grease in your for sure. what did you polish you aluminum with . i used to use mothers but switched over to california purple metal polish like the bottle says caution results may be addicting . think it gives it a better glossier shine

 

Cutlass, great deal,should come out great.

Mike, nice slide show,hope i will eventually gain that kind
of skill. an insperation thats for sure!

 

Thanks guys.

Polishing the grab rails wasn't too bad. Once they were stripped (with aircraft stripper) I took them to the buffing wheel on the bench grinder for the bulk of the work. There were some scratches too deep that needed to be sanded down first but with the bench grinder, and a couple other power tools it was just a matter of time.
My angle grinder with buffing wheel is also a major time saver and probably the most versatile tool I have.
Also love the glass bead blaster.

After it was buffed out and cleaned I polished with mothers alum polish I think and then a coat of wax.
I clear coated a backrest that I had buffer out to look like chrome but the clear coat really dulled the finish so I think you are better off just waxing the polished aluminum once a year and keeping the depth of the finish without trying to put clear over it.
The wheels were painted or glass bead blasted and then covered with clear. WOW does the clear change the apearance of the bead blasted aluminum but it looks perfectly stock when you are done.
So far it's holding up but I didn't put a ton of miles on it last year.

 

m,ike have you found out after doing a really good job polishing parts as long as when you wash the bike and make sure they are really dried good you dont have to clear them i just would polish everything about 1x a year . unless what your polishing is cheap aluminum . found out also never wax any polished parts before you clear them after i tried a few times i got the same results as you did with it