XJ750RJ project

Try this next time...

Stand on the left side of your bike facing it...
With your left hand hold the left hand side of the handlebar (where the clutch lever is) with your right hand grab a hold of the frame under the seat but over the rear wheel (most bikes have some form of grab bar there) then use your right foot to bring the center stand down (use the peg similar to the side stand). that peg acts as a lever.

Then simply extend your right leg (basically stand up on the peg), keep your back strait and pull up on the rear end at the same time.

this should put the bike on the stand with little effort...

 

lol sounds brilliant.... ill have me dad stand on the other side just incase

 

Ha my dad is up in oregon we got in a fight so that's why I'm down here now :roll: And my mom isn't very helpful though she tries to be. Kinda miss all the tools up there (he's an electrician) and i have to buy all my tools down here ugh.

 

I will definitely off the side covers they are in great shape I'll take a picture and PM you

 

On that note I have some other stuff that I will be selling/trading
82 seca seat in EXCELLENT condition,Grab bar, tail light section(kinda rough) and the fender piece that your license plate goes on.
Anything else you might need that I havent listed it's work asking the worst I can say is no :lol:

Items that I am looking for are.
-pod filters
-a single seater seat
-fuse box
-tuning equipment
-round headlight w/bracket

 

I've owned 3 XJ's with the old style fuses over the years and I have to say they have never given me any grief.

But, I guess upgrading to the newer style blade fuses can't be a bad idea in the long run.

 

The advice to Install a new Fuse Panel, replacing the OEM Panel is based upon the OEM Fuse Panel's Fuse holding clips extraordinarily high failure rate.

A great many of the Forum Members have had Electrical problems related to the Fuse Panel. Additionally, many others have found their Fuse Panels to have already failed upon purchasing a used bike with problems starting.

The advice is to prevent what is known to happen from occurring and leaving a Member stranded by eliminating the cause ahead of time.

 

should this happen to me I'll go with good ole tape that'll get me home :wink: maybe

 

LOL - the old cigarette packet foil around the blown fuse trick :wink:

Far easier to bodge one of these fuses than a blade one

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fC6jGdzn4V4 -- easy like RookieRider said.
I spent months getting my bike on its center stand the way schooter did it when I was just moving it around in the garage...plus is had a frozen caliper to boot!

 

Ok some good news, I got it to turn over and run.
Only with gas sprayed into each carb.
Also my custom-made air filters (A nice pair of shorts,scissors and zip-ties) that looked almost decent went well for a while untill i look down and see that my #4 cylinder was missing it's filter, then looked down and saw the ziptie on the concrete. Short story shorter my bike ate an airfilter.

One problem I am having is that my bike isnt sucking gas from the tank.

 

Hopefully your motor didn’t eat your shorts!

Your homemade filter probably wasn’t a very good idea, makes your motor run either rich or lean.
If you have to, go get some cheep pods, it’ll run lean but you’ll still have your shorts for this summer.

You can test your petcock by disconnecting the gas line at the petcock, then put it on prime.
If gas doesn’t run out you’ll need to take the petcock off, clean it AND the tank.

Here are some pic’s.

ab

 

Alright well a trip to the local meet got me, I'm gunna go through the tank the lines and rebuild the carbs

Thank you albran

 

Lol actually It did eat them, then spit all the chunks back into my room haha :roll:

 

Just an update.

I rebuilt the carbs and i think that the PO already cleaned them because they were spotless inside 8O , I am used to working on 1970's autoparts so it might be the 10 years difference? Either way all the parts look in good shape exept for a couple of the needles I believe that cylinder #1 and #4 have good needles and 2 and 3's just look horrible, If anyone has any interest i'll pull the caps off and get a picture of them.

Also I decided to tackle the tank rust so i searched the forums for a little while and couldn't decide on a method. But sense i moved down to California and i live so close to the beach why not use the sand/gas method (FAIL). I ended up using sand, gas, coke, carb cleaner, a tad bit of oil. And that mixture after a while of shaking the livin *sensor* out of the tank it cleared up most of the rust, YAY. Then now I'm faced with getting the sand out. Oh and the neighbors didn't think dumping the toxic sludge right out in the road was very cool either.
How am I going to get the sand out of the tank!

After I rebuilt the carbs i did slap them on to see if the bike would run better, (By the way this is the first time i have rebuilt/played with carbs ever..) The bike compared to what it was running like is awesome and sense my tank is in rust rehab I used a jar/tape/tube as a fuel I.V.

The bike was running great so I decided to tape the jar of gas onto my bike with a towel rapped around it sitting on the top of the Valve cover and take it for a spin. at first it didn't want to pull my fat *sensor* around but if you keep steady on the idle and let the clutch out a couple of times it got up to speed.

I also met my next door neighbor today turns out he has a triumph and a shadow and he speaks fluent english, you might wonder why i point this out, and well I live in Chula vista (Chula Juana as robert calls it (really funny IMO)). So I borrowed his bicycle pump to pump up my tires and when i went to return it he offered me a middle eastern cigar to celebrated the first voyage of my gas gusslin beast.

Now to talk about my cooling problem it would seem that my bike is overheating... I decided that because of the smoke that my bike generates at a stand still (a really big cloud). I think that it could be an oil problem, I'm using quacker state 20w-50 oil. I wasn't sure how much oil it took so i put in about 2.5 quarts but I got the over heating deal so then i thought I'd fill it until i could see the oil level from the brake side oil cap thing and if i went a little over it had a function to level itself out. Well a full 5 quarts went by and i couldn't see the oil level..... Well I figured that if 5 quarts and i couldn't see the oil level then I'm not supposed too so I fired up in my driveway :evil: And the stupid thing launched oil 15 feet and covered my bed with motor oil.

 

Oil change.. 5.2 US pint (2.5 Litre)
Oil and filter change...5.9 US pint (2.8 Litre)
Near where you put your foot on the rear brake lever is a glass piece (in the clutch cover) oil level should be a smidge below the top of it. When on the centre stand on level ground, it will probably take 10 minutes to find the level after its been running. A workshop manual is a good thing to have.

 

thanks bush!

was the quaker state 20w-50 a bad choice in oil? it was regular automotive oil

Any idea why it might be over heating then?

 

I don't know "quaker state oil".... 20-50 is ok tho, but you don't want modifiers in it, they will make the clutch slip. There's plenty of info on oil types in the forums if you search for it.
What you called over heating sounds to me like over filled with oil and it's getting burned.
I like the way you said you tried to save the airbox..was the right hand stronger than the left?... If you are going for function over fashion, airbox= function. Any'ow good luck.

 

Here's how to get almost all the sand out;
Take the tank out of your bedroom 8O :lol:
stand it up, put a garden hose in it, start filling.
using 5 feet of garden hose, start a siphon, just suck from the bottom corners, continue to siphon until no more sand comes out.
Then quickly dry it using denatured alcohol and a smaller tube siphon.
The alcohol absorbs the water, you remove the mix, you put in more alcohol, then oil the inside of the tank, unless you want to coat it.
Coating will bond any remaining sand.

 

Do you still have 5 qts. in it? That's almost twice too much!
The book says.
"Oil & Filter 2,250CC (2.8 US qt.)"

ab