bike dies while riding!!

ok after a new battery bike is runing great!

but sometimes it just dies, even under acceleration.
i wait 10-15 secs and sometimes can bump started,

if not i stop and can start it again with starter.
i thought it was because of the old (dead) battery,

but today it did it again, with the new one.
so i ask u guys, where can i start digging?

 

Fuses......

 

...TCI...

 

...Alternator Brushes...

 

hmm ok fuse blockis new,

tci is scary... hmm

how about the handlebar switches?

i think im gonna clean there and pray it goes away!

and yeah maybe ill look behind the bushes... lol

 

stand switch

 

Huge stab in the dark... but I had some bad connections within some of the multi-connectors from crc/dirt/corrosion that I cleaned up with a tiny piece of steel wool on a jewellers screw driver.
Mine were low current connections but they were driving me nuts till I cleaned them up.

 

+1 on electrical.
Do a voltage drop test starting from the batt and go through
all the connections and load devices one at a time.
It wont take long to find the prob. Check voltage and resistance
first with the bike off-then while running.
A wire can break inside a sheath where you cant see it.
Same with corrosion.
did you fully charge the new batt? they'er only about 75% charged
out of the box, and new batts can be bad too.

 

ye bettry was charged,
i been clening connectors,
i recentle replaced one of teh coils.
maybe the other is going?

i think its bad ground or on off switch,
all the lights die, even the green for neutral dies a few secs
my question now is, would the sidestand switch do this?
or it would just prevent from starting?

 

I would check the main negative cable connection on the rear of the motor and then check the ignition switch connector or even take the ignition switch out and check it with a multimeter and dissasemble/repair the switch if need be.
My ignition switch was a bit melted inside from a bad contact and after some finagling and a side order of patience I managed to get it back into working condition and shape with a soldering iron (reshaping the plastic disc that houses the contact strips and springs).
But in saying that I also had a couple of wires that were corroded through at the bullet terminals and appeared fine to the eye because the insulation was in place still.
Copious use of a multimeter in continuity mode is ideal and a bit of tugging on the wires to see if they are stretchy... which means your just pulling on the plastic outer and the copper is broken, burn't out or corroded away!
The sidestand switch only shows a warning on mine but the start relay is based on the neutral switch and clutch switch (if its in neutral or if not in neutral with the clutch pulled).
if there was a short to ground at any level it would also read a bit like a intermittent loss of power depending on the circuit...

 

Yes to the sidestand switch-if it should short while riding, the
motor will quit. same with any safety control switch so check
your clutch switch as well.
Basicly you need to eliminate possible shorts.
You can do this two ways. Run around going here and
there and get lucky, or take your time from the begining and
go through the whole system-it may not be one prob but a series
of events.
You won't know for sure unless you look.

 

put it in neutral and start it. if it starts you probably have a bad connection with the stand switch. try banging the stand up or tugging in the wires .

 

Checking the side stand switch is a good idea. Normally I just ditch them and cross the wires, same with the clutch switch - but I wouldn't 'recommend' either.

First thing I always look at with nearly any electrical issue is the ground cable from the battery negative. Loose - corrosion - etc. The cables tend to corrode under the sheath as well, so you can bypass the negative with a jumper cable to test it.

 

Side stand switch won't make the neutral light go out (unless it has a dead short.)

You have one or multiple loose or corroded wiring connections, plain and simple. Start at the battery and work forward; check the ground straps to the engine block; remember a lot of stuff unrelated to the headlight passes through or connects in the shell anyway.

It could be anywhere.

It could also be a loose or corroded connection IN the TCI unit; you can open it up and have a peek.