What else should I do?

Winter is here, I have a little cash and a little time, so I am going to tackle a few issues that I have been putting off. I have a list of things I am definitely going to do and a list of things I might do, depending on time and funds. This is my first bike and first time doing any maintenance on a bike (although I used to wrench on cars quite a bit), so I am asking the experts. What other maintenance items should I address while the bike is out of commission? I bought the bike in August of 2008 and have put about 9k on it. The PO took pretty good care of the bike, but didn't ride a lot the last 2 years he had it. The carbs were worked on by the dealer about a month before I bought it. It has been running very well for me with only a few issues other than some minor oil leaks.

There are things I have planned:

Definite things to do:
Buy XJCD (I already have the Haynes manual)
Replace head gasket and 'half moon' plugs
Fix leaking seal in alternator
Disassemble tach, lube and fix broken needle
Lube speedometer
Replace both tires
Install full set of braided brake lines
Replace front brake pads (upgrade to ?)
Replace rear brake shoes (upgrade to ?)
Change shaft drive oil
New battery

Possible things to do:
Rewire headlight harness
Install new fuse box
Install H4 headlight upgrade kit
Find a cost effective way to fix a small crack in 1 exhaust pipe
Replace air hoses for the carbs (small cracks)

Thanks in advance for any suggestions you may have.

Rick

 

i think you'll find those half moon plugs are part of the valve cover gasket, just as important are the rubber washers on the bolts that hold it down, once those are squished and hard no gasket will work very well
Replace air hoses for the carbs (small cracks)...do this, if it leaks the cylinder runs lean and the fuel might shut off completely

 

:? that's me, I was going to say the same P, 'till I looked at the '81 maxim parts list & it gives the flat type gasket without the doughnuts, for that year.

 

spot on Wiz, the '81 model has a paper rocker cover gasket with separate rubber half moon inserts.The cover is held down with allen head bolts around the periphery of the cover,ie no donuts.

 

While you have the valve cover off check your valve clearances.

No need to "upgrade" the rear brake; new shoes will be fine.

 

What is involved in checking the valve clearance?

 

Measuring them. Here's a step-by-step, it's on a Seca 550 but once the valve cover is off they're the same.
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html

 

yep, your right, can i still get half credit for the vacuum line ?

 

If Polack gets half credit, then I half to change the hoses, right?

 

air hose(s)? Plural? the only hoses I know on the carbs are the fuel and vacume...

 

while your at the parts store for vacuum hose get some caps for the other vacuum nipples and a inline fuel filter

 

If you are speaking of the carb joints ie. air box to carb and carb to intake by all means be VERY careful removing the 8 studs holding the boots onto the head. Lots of PB Blaster, some heat and above all tread gently and take your time.

I snapped off 2 out of the 8 and was faced with removing the engine or the head and bringing to a machine shop. Neither a very good option.

I was lucky and brought the whole bike to a mechanic who was able to weld onto the stud and after 3 hours and some pretty good cash managed to get the bolts out.

Just be careful. The material of the studs is crap and will break easily.

Good luck!


Rob

 

Yes, I am referring to thos carb joints. It looks like the Haynes manual simply refers to them as the "rubbers", but they look like small hoses to me. Thanks for the heads up on the studs. When I bought the bike the PO told me he had the hoses "re-glazed" because it was cheaper than buying a new set. I don't know what that means, but they are very shiny. Hopefully, that means they were removed not too long ago and the studs are in good shape and won't give me too much trouble.

 

Well, quite honestly unless they are giving you problems ie. leaking or the bike is running poorly I would not even touch them. All the trouble I went thru and mine were still good on the inside. Not a single stress crack went all the way thru.

The rubbers are very thick. New Carb joints will set you back well over $200 and that's if you are lucky enough not to snap off any studs. If you do then you can add at least an additional $150 and possibly a hell of a lot more if you have to break into the engine or remove it from the bike to be machined.

I assume what the PO of your bike did was use liquid tape on the stress cracks. If they are cosmetic cracks then problem solved. If you have to get into the joints due to leaking then just remember what I said and be very careful.

Other's opinions may vary but this is mine.

Good luck my friend.
Rob

 

Might oughta put that fuse box closer to the top of the list as well. The fuse holders are real crappy metal . I removed a fuse from mine to look at and one broke off when I put the fuse back. No forcing at all. Just plink! Broke!
Almost funny how easy it broke.
On those intake boots.. some folks get black silicone and paint a layer on them after a thorough exterior cleaning. If you undo those intake bolts you can expect to ring off a few so easy you'll think they were aluminum.