removing rear wheel

I have never owned a bike before with a driveshaft. What's the trick to removing the rear wheel? I have the axle removed and it's not budging. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

There a splines on the left side of the wheel. Bump the wheel to the right and it should come off. Grease the splines and make sure they are lined up when you go back on.

 

Make sure you have the brake rod disconnected and the brake tension bar removed.

Pull the brake shoe plate out to give you enough clearance to pull the splines out of the drive unit.

Once you have the brake shoe plate out nothing should be holding the wheel in place. The splines are short and very coarse so they shouldn't hang up much. Don't use much force as you don't want to damage the wheel. I'd try rocking it off. If that doesn't work try tapping with a mallet (plastic or rawhide) or block of wood while turning the wheel.

 

yep , i gave mine as good kick..

 

any suggestions to removing a stubborn axel? ive removed the pinch bolt, the tension rod, the brake arm, and axel castle nut. ive been using a drift to try and get the axel out, but without using a heavy mallot, its a no go. how much force is too much? any other suggestions?

 

Take off the Castle nut.
Go buy 2 hardened nuts with the axle pitch at the hardware store.
Come home.
Wrap the threads on the axle with vinyl thread sealing tape.
Put one hardened nut on the axle far enough to get the second one on half way.

Wrench the two nuts tight against each other.

The outside nut owes you $20,000.00, and was wearing a wire for the FBI and says its going to testify against you for immunity ...

Sounds like it time for it to get whacked ... huh???

 

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Jim 8)

 

ok, will try the two nut idea, still suprised that it doesnt want to come out. i can get it to come out about an inch and a half, enough to get the wheel sliding back and forth, but not enough to remove anything. i'll keep poundiing......

 

Had that same problem with my rear axle. Talked to the service department at the place I was getting my tires. His response:

"Use a bigger hammer."

 

When you do get that thing out of there ... sand it with 400 until it shines.

Then, sand it with 800 until it glows.

Then, slather on some AntiSeize Compound ... so this Action Adventure won't have a sequel!

 

Yeah, I was just thinking that what Rick described could quite accurately be called a BFH Adapter.

 

BFH indeed. I simply flip my axle nut over and thread it down to flush with the end of the axle. Plenty of surface area. I am blessed with a 7 lb brass hammer and it makes short work of the removal process. Of course I don't have this problem again after I remove and clean the assembly.

 

Are you able to pull the axle enough that the end is inside the rear drive housing? If so, I'd bet you have a ring of corrosion that is binding on one of the bearings.

I'd try driving it as far as you have been then spray inside the rear drive unit along the axle with WD40, PBBlaster or whatever penetrating oil you like. Drive the axle back in, treat the end with penetrating oil. Back and forth several cycles with the oil. See if that frees it up.

 

Yep ...

That's the ... "See-saw Method"
That's next ... if THE BIG WHACK don't make it.

 

the axel is a little rusty. ive been hitting it like we were having a domestic disturbance. the axel will push out the right side about 1 3/4 inches. this leaves the tip of the axel inside the rear drive assembly. i can see through the space between the wheel and the drive assembly, and it looks like a cone type bearing has come out of the drive assembly, but its not allowing removal. see saw method will comence in t-minus half a beer, so i'll let you all know how it goes!

 

You might have to source a drift of appropriate size to follow the axle into the housing. I highly recommend the use of brass for this application.

 

well, like you guys said........trip to the part store for BFH. it werked
so now on to next project....... thanks guys!