Botched my Tank paint job

In an earlier post with a pic of my almost finished tank there was a little orange peel in it. Not bad but enough you would want to buff it out.
I thought why buff when I could sand them out and hit it with one light coat and I would be done. Well , I mix up some clear and thin it with a little MEK. Soon as I crank up the comp the old ball and chain starts barkin orders for the day. I got my sh-t filters on stun but some gets through and I start spraying. Suddenly big fisheyes start poping up and oh sh-t! Forgot to shake the gun so it was shootin real hot with the un-mixed MEK. I shook it up and started pilling on the clear to push it arouind as much as I could. Well there is very little forgiveness on a final coat so needless to say I had some big old runs...more like ice sickles. Its dry and I have sanded them out and doing the buffing. By hand. Don't have a wheel. Looking ok though..tried to post pic but problems with photobucket I code

 

Have done lots of cabinet work. Get to that final coat of clear and.......and......BLEEECCCHHH :cry: ! Wood finishes aren't as forgiving with trying to sand something out as metal...

skillet

 

Sorry to hear about it. Post pics?

 

I am in the process of painting my tank. Filled the dents, put on the primer and 4 layers of paint. All with a rattle can. Was looking prity good. Wnet to put the clear coat on and it looked like I sprayed paint remover on in a few spots. I must have waited to long to put the clear coat on.

 

It's sounds to me like you have some contaminents in the air where your painting perhaps? Did you make sure your clearcoat paint is compatable with the main color? That can cause your problem. And of course any paint guy knows you can't apply laquer over enamel, if that's what your trying to do.
*Spray-can paint jobs will not hold up to gas spills very well (or at all if left on too long) so you may want to consider better paint with a hardener in it.

 

Yea, I decided to start over and use the correct type of paint. I was trying to get it done cheaply.(Cheap does not mean les expensive in the long run)

 

I use Matrix Clearcoat (acrl enaml) its a 2:1 and will coat nicely over Duplicolor's Bases. It was a little cold that day and I cut the mix with a little MEK and forgot to shake or stir it. I was "distracted" at the wrong time ifyou know what I mean :cry:

 

I see, her timing was a bit off, eh? Know just what you mean.
Yes, temperature can make a difference too I guess. Wish you luck with how it turns out then. PD

 

i hear it's a no no to paint in a area that's heated with kerosene, not because of the explosive fumes but the pollutants that get on your work...anyone ever hear that?

 

I haven't. Carbon particles maybe? Makes sence...if you can smell it then there is something in the air to smell.

 

I painted some stuff when using a forced air Kerosene heater in the shop years ago and it didn't do anything to the paint job I worked on. Of course I just ran it to heat the shop first, then the electric heat maintains the heat from there, so it never ran while I was painting.
It possible there could be spary lubricants inthe air from working on something in the past maybe? *You NEVER want to use silicone spray in any place you paint. It stays suspended in the air for weeks. If I need to use it, I spray it outside the shop. Just a thought.

 

Here is my tank after several hours of sanding and hand buffing with cutting compound (medium). Starting to look better but giving me arthritus!

 

Nice color. I would say that the arthritis is worth it!

 

They can, if you use a compatible engine clear coat. The last paint job on my tank was done all rattle can (chameleon style base with "anodized" flames fading to silver tips) which was then clear coated with a clear engine enamel. Held up to gas spills like a champ.

It was funny to see the looks on people's faces when i told them the paint job was done with all rattle cans.