Tips on buying a Seca II

Hello everyone. I'm thinking of buying a 1994 Seca II as my first bike. I'm not super mechanically informed about motorcycle mechanics, but I guess I need to start learning.

The bike I'm looking at has super low mileage (less than 2,000) and a good price. It also has a few things wrong with it that seem (to me) pretty standard for a bike that sat in a garage for 6 years. The owner says a float is stuck, and the carb needs to be cleaned (still leaking gas after he did an initial quick cleanup) and the battery he installed last year is a bit low. He got it to turn over last year after an initial carb clean and a battery replacement, but it needs more work than he's got time for. I plan on taking it to a garage for these repairs.

The owner is 100 miles away, and my only bike-savvy friends know older cafe racers. Which means I guess I have to pass as my own inspector if I go look at this bike.

It currently won't start. Should I be worried about that, or is it normal for a bike with a stuck float/low battery?

I asked if the gas tank was rusty, and the owner said he removed it and flushed it out for storage, and it looks pretty clean. He seems honest and forthcoming, at least on the surface.

What other potential problems should I look for, and where the heck should I look for them on the bike?

Does anyone know of an exploded view diagram of this bike labeling its parts? That would help me figure out what's what.

Many, many thanks in advance for any advice you all can offer this newbie girl.

~claude.

 

The carbs will have to be surgically clean, this is actually fairly simple with the help of this forum if you have time and could save you a pretty penny over having a garage do it. If the bike turns over then do a compression test, if one cylinder is lower than the others by more than ten psi walk away. Also plan on redoing brakes all the way around. I think with that low mileage You shouldn't have issues with compression so really brakes and carbs and you should be good to go. Good luck,
Tiny

 

Shop manuals (expensive) after market manuals (affordable) would have what you are looking for. Low battery, really bad. Depending on how bad it's leaking (gas), maybe borrow a battery from a friend to at least give it a try...

skillet

 

www.carlsalter.com has a free download of a Haynes SECAII/diversion manual.
They are a reliable commuter bike. In the UK, the exhaust systems tend to rot (And can be expensive) and the frame/swingarm can show rust. This shouldn't be a problem on a low mileage/stored bike.

I agree with the compression test and taking your own battery.
If it tries to fire, it's likely the coils/electronic ignition are working and the carbs are the problem. If it just turns over but shows no signs of life at all there could be electrical gremlins.

Check out the selling prices of non runners on ebay and use it as a guide. You cafe racer pal should at least be able to tell you if it's been in an accident or is bent.

It will probably want new tyres if they are as old as you say, even if they look good.

Finally check the paperwork. Do the serial numbers match the title?

 

Yep, just do the basics. Bring your own battery and compression gauge (I believe those have the smaller, 12mm plug like the 550s.) If the starter spins the motor smartly, and you get decent (and matching within 10%) compression numbers, go for it.

You're going to need a manual, and DO not ride the bike until you pull the rear brake apart and check it for delaminated shoes.

Might want to re-think that "take it to a shop" idea; you might find that a lot more frustrating than doing it yourself. Everything you need to know is in the manual and here on this forum; a lot of shops simply won't touch an older bike.

Tires have date codes in the sidewalls; anything older than 5 years merits replacement.

 

Rear disc brake on the Seca II, Fitz :wink:

 

8O It still has a chain though, right?

 

yessir

 

With only 2,000 miles, and not running in "forever", I wouldn't walk away from a 10% compression variance that might go away in ten minutes of running.
Price based on condition, then trust Yamaha.

 

Thanks, everyone. Your responses have been really helpful already! I am learning a ton, and am getting a great checklist.

I just emailed the guy to ask if he's done a compression test. It'd be great if he had the gauge and could just repeat the test with me. From what I found on YouTube about compression checks, it looks like the bike should have the fuel line disconnected or the gas tank off for a compression test? Is that right?

Also, it sounds like with so few miles on a reliable bike, some of you think it's probably not too likely that the cylinders are going bad, although anything's possible, of course.

Thanks again for all the sage advice. If you think of anything else I should watch out for, please chime in. I'll keep you posted on whether I get this bike.

~claude.

 

You dont want the bike to start when your doing a compression test. Turn off the gas and hold the starter until the tester gets a complete reading. I was also told its a good idea to have some oil with you. If one of the cylinders reads a bit low put a tea spoon of oil in it and recheck it. If the numbers improve then you probably just have to replace some seals( the oil will temporarily create a seal for the compression test). I was told that a lot of automotive parts stores such as Auto zone and the like will rent compression testers and other tools.

Good Luck

 

To add to that; if you DO end up doing a compression test, be sure to locate and disconnect the TCI (ignition) module prior to the test.

No need to remove the fuel tank.

 

Where's the TCI located?

 

Looking at the fiche, it appears to be under the seat, on the right hand side, toward the rear. It also appears to be mounted pretty much vertically with the connector "downhill" toward the front. Maybe on an inner side panel. Open the seat, pull the RH sidecover. You'll find it.

It should have a number beginning in "4DU" on it.

Here's an eBay listing for one with some pics: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-S ... ccessories

 

The seller tells me they didn't do a compression test b/c of the low mileage.

He also says,"The battery was new about 6 months ago so it just needs charging a bit. It will barely try to turn over the motor but I don't want to turn it so as to not flood the motor any more until the carbs are cleaned. The tires and brakes are perfect, I would not replace either. This has been stored inside a heated garage its entire life and is in remarkable condition. There is one small (couple inches) crack in the left side of the fairing. The lady I got it from said she bumped the bike pulling into the garage. The bike hasn't ever been down. I would just add some epoxy and fiber mesh to the back side to prevent any further cracking and the hairline crack in the paint is barely noticable. Other than that minor cosmetic issue I would rate this bike a 9.5 on a 10 scale."

Hmm. Does a fairing crack so easily? Not sure what to think of his tire/brake comments. Turns out this bike is at a small used auto dealership, not a private seller.

Turning it over without the fuel connected won't flood the carb, right? Any thoughts?

~claude.

 

If it is at a dealer - then he has a battery charger!
To crack the fairing, it was probably dropped - while putting it into the garage.
It might be a really good buy but unless he is offering some kind of warranty, you have to consider it to be a non-runner and offer an appropriate payment. How much is he asking?

 

Good point about the charger. Hadn't thought of that. Could be that he's underplaying the bike's problems. He's asking $1200, tax included. Is that too much?

Just found a 92 xj600 from a private seller for $600 more. Has 9K miles, but has had the same owner/rider for the past 4 years. Currently being stored in unheated garage/battery on a trickle charger. Maybe that's a better bet than someone who acquired the bike and never got it running properly.

Hmm. Good things to think about. Thanks!

 

It is hard to say what to do.
I am sceptical as the guy who sold my bike on ebay told me he had failed his test. I know he has sold 4 more bikes since then, all with new excuses (Girlfriend pregnant, moved to a high crime area etc!) He is a dick as he writes all this on ebay!


Perhaps if your cafe racer friend could establish the mileage is genuine (By checking the condition of the machine and looking at the service book) you will be pretty safe.

Just thought - is it the faired model?

You could offer $1000 and take a chance?

 

well a guy who's telling you to keep using at least 6 year old tires and brakes and calls a not running bike that leaks gas a 9.5 out of 10 is something i would be wary of.

 

You should ALWAYS be wary of buying a non-running bike. Especially a newer bike that "only needs a carb clean" and is a "9.5 out of 10" 8O

If you are still keen, grab a compression tester and a good battery (or jumper leads), pull out ALL the plugs (from the head and the leads) and check away (with wide open throttle). If they are around or over 120PSI each (+ - 10% difference across the 4) then that's OK. Put a spark plug back in #1 lead and check for spark (ground the spark plug thread on the head fins). If OK, put the same plug in #2 lead and do the same.

If you have spark, then it's probably just gummed carbs from sitting...........maybe.......... :roll:

 

$1200 is pretty high for a non-runner, and I assume he wouldn't give you any kind of warranty (he'll probably point and laugh as you sign the paperwork).

If you're dead set on the Seca II, the private seller sounds better if it is in running condition. A bike that is used and maintained is much better and cheaper than a low mileage bike that's been sitting around for 6 years. Things will need fixin-n-replaxing slowly, vs the bike becoming a money pit and year long project (hey I love my XJ750 Seca money pit so much that I got a Turbo Seca...Low Miles!).

Also...if you are taking a bike to a garage for repairs...get ready to spend well more than it's worth (kbb says retail is $1560). You'll spend more than $360 in parts (heck just tires) getting it running, without labor. Things that don't age well include - Tires, brake lines, any rubber seals, and fluids. And don't forget that just because it's been sitting for 6 years doesn't mean maintenance wasn't neglected before that.

Also, what did he flush the gas tank out with? Unless it's coated with something (tank liner, etched, oil, gas), moisture in the air starts flash rusting the tank very quickly.

It's good that you are asking lots of questions, some of his later answers aren't quite adding up. If you keep asking and he backs out... it'd probably be for the better.

 

Sage advice, everyone. Yes, that nonstarter isn't sounding like the best deal. Still looking, I guess. Thanks!