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Maxim 550 Solo Seat Mod [pic heavy]

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by k.joel.porter, Feb 13, 2010.

  1. k.joel.porter

    k.joel.porter Member

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    Here we go:

    Remember the photoshop?
    Before:
    [​IMG]

    After:
    [​IMG]

    And now the project!
    Removed seat cover
    [​IMG]

    Marked where to trim the foam
    [​IMG]

    Trimmed!
    [​IMG]

    Trimmed stock seat pan *** where the back of the pan rests on the small support (the one the inner fender attaches to) I will run short carriage bolts down from the pan into the frame to secure the new pan/cowl combo.
    [​IMG]

    Chopped the rear
    [​IMG]

    Traced profile onto posterboard from seat pan
    [​IMG]

    Making "skeleton"
    [​IMG]

    Added more "bones" to support plaster cloth
    [​IMG]

    Used strips of masking tape to push/pull posterboard into desirable shape
    [​IMG]

    Rigid Wrap plaster cloth! I haven't used this stuff since middle school art class!
    [​IMG]

    Starting to cover
    [​IMG]

    View from the back
    [​IMG]

    Covered! Two layers so far.
    [​IMG]

    So now all that's left to do for this step is to start covering it with Plaster of Paris. When it's dry I'll sand it smooth and trim the bottom into the shape I want. From that, I'll be able to make my fiberglass mold and fiberglass finished product. I'll keep you all updated with the progress.
     
  2. FABFABINC

    FABFABINC Member

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    k.joel.porter that back end will look very nice good work
     
  3. rustysavage

    rustysavage Member

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    very cool! is the seat becoming part of the new assembly or do you have some type of clip/retaining set up planned?
     
  4. k.joel.porter

    k.joel.porter Member

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    Thanks!

    rustysavage, the short answer to your question is "yes." In other words, I haven't fully figured that out yet. I am definitely keeping the seat foam where it is and recovering it with that section from the original cover which is in fantastic shape. I'm leaning towards wrapping the cover around the foam and overlapping onto the plastic pan; overlapping the front as it was stock, and stapling to the sides about an inch and a half from the bottom of the foam. The only other thing I'm considering is shaving about a centimeter off the entire surface of the remaining foam. Of course this means the stock cover is going to need extensive alterations to make it fit. The advantage, however, is that it'll make the finished product look more streamlined. The new cowl, once it's formed from fiberglass will be epoxied to the pan.... I think...
     
  5. RookieRider

    RookieRider Member

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    That looks bada$$ already... keep us posted....
     
  6. Mad_Bohemian

    Mad_Bohemian Active Member

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    VERY NICE!! Working w/fiberglass from scratch like that is so cool... That's one fabricating skill I DON'T have. I'm always amazed at what guys can do with fiberglass. Looks like that is gonna be one sweet lookin' mod!!
     
  7. dwcopple

    dwcopple Active Member

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    Have you tried? I don't think it is that tough really. I mean, i know some guys who are all thumbs who have successfully done some fiberglass work.
     
  8. ZaGhost

    ZaGhost Member

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    Ooooh nice start, I'm liking this idea :)
     
  9. skillet

    skillet Active Member

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    k.j.p., after reading first post was hooked. A number of the replies you got sounded good to me. I've never worked with fiberglass myself. Man, YOU REALLY DONE GOOD!!! I'M IMPRESSED!!! :wink: ...

    skillet
     
  10. chainsmoker

    chainsmoker New Member

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    Nice look! I hate to be a buzz kill, but I hope you are thinking about somehow armoring the bottom. I hate to think of a rock going though all your beautiful work. Keep posting pics and doing what your imagination tells ya.
     
  11. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    There no need to cover it with Plaster of Paris and make a mold.
    Cover it with a Fiberglass Kit and use an Electric Sander to shape the Fiberglass.

    Once you have the Shape you need "Finish" it with a coat of MarGlas Filler followed by critical forming and shaping of the MarGlas which cures rapidly ... then, a final skim coat of Bondo to hide imperfections and allow you to swand and prime a Finish that will be flawless.
     
  12. k.joel.porter

    k.joel.porter Member

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    Amazing suggestion, Rick! That'll definitely eliminate some steps and possibly a few headaches. The good news is that I haven't opened my 8lb tub of PoP... that's $9 back in my pocket towards fiberglass! I don't have an electric sander but I do have a pneumatic disc sander for my compressor. Will that be okay or will it be overkill? What's the best grit to use? I have 60 coarse and 150 fine discs.
     
  13. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    60 Grit will cut the Fiberglass like butter.
    You will be able to fashion the "Form" for laying-on MarGlas after cutting it with 60 Grit and Fine Tuning it with 80 or 120.

    Once you've created the Foundation ...
    Lay on the MarGlas
    Just before the MarGlas hardens ... "Rough-shape it" with a "Cheese Grater type -- SureForm Tool.

    "Work" the MarGlas down by cutting it with 180-220
    As the work takes shape nicely ... 320
    Hand sand it with 400 Dry
    Fill low spots and cut wit 320.
    Once you have it "Ready for people" with 400 Dry
    Coat it with Primer
    Sand the Primer with 400 or 600 Wet.
    Have somebody look it over for Blems ... you won't see 'em.
    Your mind doesn't let you see the imperfections.
    Mark with Pencil
    Fill or sand.
    Re-Prime
    600-Wet
    800-Wet
    Color
    Let Color CURE for 48 Hours
    1000-1200 Wet (Feel it getting smooth as a glass baby's ass)
    Wash
    Dry
    Clear Coat 1
     
  14. Orange-n-Black

    Orange-n-Black Well-Known Member

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    If I were you, I would go ahead with the mold idea.That way you would have something to work with later in case of damage.
     
  15. Mad_Bohemian

    Mad_Bohemian Active Member

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    bump.. Any updates on this?!?
     
  16. k.joel.porter

    k.joel.porter Member

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    lol... no. It's been sitting in my garage waiting for me to buy the fiberglass mat, resin, short strand, bondo, etc. The contracting business lightened up after I started the project so... you know... mortgage, utilities, & food took precedent...

    The good news is I got a new marketing job that I start on the 15th so I'll be able to start back up soon and will certainly update!
     
  17. Mad_Bohemian

    Mad_Bohemian Active Member

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    Ok...so you've had a good solid 7 days on the new job....5 not counting weekends...so where's the update?!?!?!? lolol :D
     
  18. k.joel.porter

    k.joel.porter Member

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    I'm cringing when I say this... but... I'm thinking about scrubbing the project. Between night school, job, hour and a half commute, and the wife, I have no time to work on my project. And now it's riding season and I've lost my patience.

    drag bars and forward controls are looking more appealing by the minute. It's not the look I want but whatever. Add another chopped 550 max to the list and get me back on the road.
     
  19. streetbrawler750

    streetbrawler750 Member

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    Well, as long as you do something that is reversible to get you on the road you can always pick up where you left off when you have time. My chop/custom project sat for 3 years do to marrage and a child, but hey gotta do what ya gotta do.
     
  20. Mad_Bohemian

    Mad_Bohemian Active Member

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    +1
     

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