Bleeding brakes w/ Anti-dive

HI Ya'll,

1981 Seca 750

Having a time bleeding the brakes. Is there a special procedure due to the anti-dive circuit. I am using a good vac pump set-up. Have r/r both calipers. There appear to be no leaks. Do you bleed from the anti-dive bleed screw and then on to caliper or??
can't seem to get a good firm brake..a little spongy..
thanks
Proad

 

No not really , i used the manual method and found this way , fill up resivoir and loose up the bottom bleed screw [antidive] and wait until fluid started to drip [that was from complete empty] , fill up resivoir, then the other side , then do the next bleed screws up [calipers] and then a prime up with the lever and let out the air by gently squeezing hand lever and undo bleed screw a little , once air bubbles stop it should be ok.

Try to have the bleed screws as vertical as possible.

If there seems still a soft lever wait awhile then try again as a soft lever normally says there is still a bit of air trapped somewhere.

Also a soft lever could be "takeup" , so a good look down at the calipers watching what happens in the soft part of travel , it might show something else is going on , look for a caliper twisting a bit or alot [disc rotor warped] or the pads not seated correctly can also show up in the takeup [of space].. good bleedin..

 

thanks ..
will check it out, once off shift.
Again, is sure good to have this site and folks around to help. thanks again.

 

Start at the nipples furthest from the resevior (bottom nipple), bleed well, then move up the line. HooNz has a very good idea, give the air bubbles time to float up to the reservior and bleed again. I'm going to disagree with leaving the nipples open since 1- this lets air in and 2- the drainage can get everywhere, including the pads. I don't know how you do it HooNz but I've never been lucky enough to catch all the fluid even with the bleed tube installed. Do you put a loop in the tube when you do it? I've also used a vacuum bleeder and ended up back to the old fashioned tube and wrench method. Never was successful at getting a firm lever with the vacuum method. It'll clean out the lines real quick and is good for flushing but I have always followed it with the manual bleed.

 

I did mine a few weeks ago. Rebuilt calipers, and antidive units, plus added SS brake lines. System was bone dry.

Manual method, but used a syringe to try and push fluid thru the line, caliper, and antidive unit.

After this I spent time and bled antidive and then caliper. Watch which is giving off more air and repeat. Seemed to take forever and went thru the whole pint of fluid until I got pressure. I was begining to worry!

 

Personal opinion is that the "Anti Dive' was a dysmal failure.. I would remove/disable discard it as a wasted useless add on Gizmo.. You really will not notice it's errrr.. absence.

 

Just wat is up you robert ,a xjwizz and caynt read fer sh+t , a reread will show you that the whole system was empty and "full of air" so to fill up the resivoir and undo the bottom bleeder one side at a time untill drips was expelling air to them without having to pump the handle and the same for the next bleed screws up , then start pumping .
No damn excuses , oh i thought this or that as you normally do , pull your head in sport.... :lol:

 

??? Can't say I follow (what else is new) you there HooNz. No mention of an empty system, just a spongy lever. Your method would work, I'm just concerned about fluid seepage. Sorry if you get the impression I'm not with the program but there is no mention of an empty reservior on any of the posts so I'm a little confused.

Proad, did we get your question answered? It is not uncommon to have to return to the bleeding of the system a few days after a flush and bleed to get the last of the air out of the line (gives the bubbles time to work their way back up the line to the reservior or other high points in the system like the bleeder nipples).

 

Ahh! I see the light, how did I miss that? Doh! Guess I had that one comin'. Now tell me you used a clear tube on the bleeder valve to keep the fluid off of the calipers, please! Durnd stuff wrinkled the paint right off of mine. And (here I go again) the stuff will mess up the pads if it gets on them (even cleaning them is no guarantee). Your comments on this please HooNz! I've been really careful not to get the fluid on the pads since the Haynes manual pointedly states that one does not want that to happen as decreased braking ability will result. No brainer there but what I really want to know is, given the compounding and resins used to make pads, why shouldn't one be able to simply wash the fluid off of the pads with brake cleaner? Their hard enough that I don't think they will absorb the brake fluid and that it ought to wash right off, right?

 

Edited by SnoSheriff. Abuse of site rules.

 

Edited by SnoSheriff. Abuse of site rules.

 

yes (answered) a manual bleed is the answer after purging all the old fluid..

thanks again

 

Edited by Woot. Abuse of site rules.