82 Maxim 400 XS400J - Exhaust Flanges & Fused bolts...help!

So my exhaust system is rusted beyond repair, and am getting a brand new header/exhaust setup. Well I figured I was home safe when I soaked the nuts in liquid wrench and was able to get them to back out with no real problem. That was last week, and today I decided to take them all the way out and remove the exhaust. Well, one of them came off with the stud (no big deal, actually was better, and the other three left the studs in place.

WELL, the 3 remaining studs have fused themselves to the exhaust flanges. Like hardcore fusing. After about 2 hours of heat cycling and liquid wrenching, I was finally able to get one of them out. The way I got it loose was to put some locking pliers on the end of the stud, and then rock the flange back and forth until the stud freed itself from the flange. Once it broke loose, I could then spin the stud with the locking pliers until it came out.

Now the other side is a completely different story. Both studs are in still, so I have no means of rocking it back and forth to loosen up. I tried clamping one of the studs and rocking it, but the metal is just falling apart. I liquid wrenched it heated it with a torch about 6 times, and now have left it soaked again in liquid wrench.

Any suggestion on what to do next? In my mind I have only one option, and that is to put a relief cut on the outside of the flange with my reciprocating saw, and then spray a bunch of liquid wrench in it, remove the stud, and then remove the remaining stud by rocking the flange back and forth. However I'd rather not cut the flange, and reciprocating saws aren't the most precise pieces of equipment.

Thanks
Here is a picture of the flanges (not mine, but for reference):

 

Hard to find but I would put some Kroil on it. All that time with liquid wrench would have been cut to 10 minutes soaking in Kroil. Just a thought...good luck!

 

Re: 82 Maxim 400 XS400J - Exhaust Flanges & Fused bolts...he

Here's some real life pictures. This is the exhaust flange with the fused studs:

And here is a comparison of the good stud and one of the bad studs:

 

You're going to have to get some Kroil.

It's not hard to find at all: http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

2 cans, $12, shipped. I'm in MI and I got mine in 3 days.

If that doesn't do it, then your best bet would probably be to take a Dremel wheel and slice through the flanges at the bolt locations.

But I'll bet anything Kroil will break them free.

 

Ack! Thanks for the reply but they don't sell Kroil in Canada. I'm going to try and order some from Amazon.com and see if it'll make it over the border.

** Just placed an order for a can of Kroil. Now I get to wait 2 weeks for it to arrive. :/

 

Sorry, failed to notice your location.

My second choice would be PB Blaster, if you can get that; Liquid Wrench has been long eclipsed by better products.

 

PB Blaster can now be found at Canadian Tire.

 

FYI: i've read that there was a study conducted (albeit, i don't know how "scientific" they were) on different penetrating oils that had the following results:

i'm not surprised the KROIL is the best commercially available product.
i was surprised to see PB blaster is not much better that WD-40.

you might wanna try the Acetone/tranny fluid mixture.

i don't think this mixture will keep long as the acetone will evaporate, but thought i'd pass on the info.