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EDIT -DISREGARD NOW and so it begins... first dead-end.

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by LeSkid, Mar 7, 2010.

  1. LeSkid

    LeSkid Member

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    I finally got my 82 seca trucked to Montreal and this morning, I wanted to do some basic checks. As my VERY first time putting a tool to this bike, I started with fuel levels in the bowls.

    but

    the PO had more enthusiasm than skill because 3/4 of the float bowl drain screws are 'screwed'. Stripped pretty well so without turning it into a buttery mash of aluminum, I don't know what to do now....

    So I turn to my more experienced forum brethren: what would you do?

    1- drill & easy out? (I've never done this but it doesnt sound too hard)
    2- try smacking a sharp phillips head in there? I doubt I'll have any luck)

    what would you do?


    thanks to this forum, I've already found the supporting vendor with these parts.... HCP54SET4 Aftermarket Hitachi allen-head stainless-steel carb BOWL DRAIN SCREWS, set of 4: $ 17.95.

    Crap. I have a feeling this is going to be a looooong and expensive project
     
  2. skillet

    skillet Active Member

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    Re: and so it begins... first dead-end. Any tips?

    Had REAL problems with my drain screws also. I had removed carbs for cleaning so I soaked the screws in PB Blaster for a while (read on here that Kroil is better). A friend tapped on the end of the screw driver while I applied torque. I got 3 out of 4 out this way. Last one said HELL NO, ain't gonna happen!!! Ended up just putting it back on with stuck screw (bad idea, really). A member sent me another bowl (with stuck screw, it still had a good slot though). Soaked it and got it out.
    Have read where heating bowl right at screw can help. Do a search for "stuck drain screw" and you ought to get a lot of help. GOOD LUCK with it...

    skillet
    BTW if you try the extractor route, DON'T USE A CHEAP SET!!!
     
  3. rtanner

    rtanner Member

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    Re: and so it begins... first dead-end. Any tips?

    LeSkid
    Take a look at the top of this forum page there is a complete explination of drain screw removal. It is the third down in the header. As you can see it is a common enough problem that it has it's own listing. Don't get discouraged already it will be worth it.
     
  4. pirok

    pirok Member

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    Re: and so it begins... first dead-end. Any tips?

    I did my float bowl drain screws when i was cleaning my carbs. Put a lot of heat on the area where the screws i located with a heat gun. Smacked the end of the screwdriver a couple of times with a hammer and off it goes. Of cause the screw must not be totally wrecked. And when i put them back i didn't tightened them to much.
     
  5. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member

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    Re: and so it begins... first dead-end. Any tips?

    Also know that extractors can (and will) break off. On the flip side, you can still survive (and properly measure the float height) if you have at least 1 of 4 bowls with good drain screws. I had to jbweld one of mine shut after breaking off screw extractors in it, but you can always switch that carb bowl out with another to measure. It just takes a bit longer and is a bit messier.

    Take your time and read the threads that cover it
     
  6. ingie1062005

    ingie1062005 New Member

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    Re: and so it begins... first dead-end. Any tips?

    I just bought a new exhaust for my 83 xj750 maxim from niche cycle.
    I bought the four into two magephone stlye made by Mac Products.
    The add said bolts right up, and doesn't interfer with centre stand.
    It does interfer with the centre stand and even if I remove it the mufflers hang too low and stick out to far, affecting lean angle.
    any suggestions?
     
  7. LeSkid

    LeSkid Member

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    Re: and so it begins... first dead-end. Any tips?

    that's as inventive as it is hilarious! I guess it's true that necessity is the mother of invention

    And thanks to you and rtanner.... I can't believe I missed the post at the top of the page.

    Thanks to all
     
  8. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    I use my SEARS Impact Tool to get-out stubborn Bowl Drain Screws.

    I put a Hammer Handle in the Vice and have an assistant hold the Fuel Bowl against the Hammer Handle.

    If the Head on the Drain Screw is buggered, ... Cut a Slot in the Drain Screw with a tiny, high-speed, Cutting Bit.

    "Dress" the large screwdriver Bit of the Impact Tool Set with a Grinder, ... to allow the Bit to enter the Fuel Bowl and Seat within the Slot you carefully cut in the Drain Screw End.

    Place several drops of Olive Oil or Vegetable Oil in the Drain Screw opening.
    Heat.
    When cool enough to work, ...
    Apply Impact ...

    It will come out!
     
  9. skeeter

    skeeter Member

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    it took me a torch and an impact driver to get the screws out. i also ground the bit down for a precision fit. to hold the bowl in place while i was working on it, i used the existing holes in the bowl to screw it to a 2x4 that i then clamped to my work bench.
     

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