HElp please Almost done

ok bike has 5,000 miles on it i have removed carbs and done a rick cleaning have had carbs of 10 times CARBS ARE CLEAN AND NEW JETS GASKETS, AIR FULE MIXTURE O RINGS ARE GREAT. CARBS ARE BACK IN AND AT 2 1/2. AND BENCH SINKED.
all sylinders are fireing. i did not ajust float becuase i never touched them.
i belive 17.5 mm is speck. if the floats were out would that cause me not to be able to dile in the pilot air mixture? they dont seem to make much of a differance when i screw them out. iam trying to ear tune. shouldnt the rpms get higher as i unscrew?
also if the floats are out do i turn the carbs so the floats are at a 30 deg angle and the tab is at the pivot point were it is not touching the needle, and messure carb edg were the gasket sits (ie wouthout gasket in?). do i messure to top of float or middle? or can i just flip them over were they are flat and closed and do 22.5?. and is that to middle or top of float?

I JUST CANT GET THE PILOT MIX TO BE RIGHT I CAN GET TO IDDLE BUT HAS A LITTLE MISS. I HAVE SPARK IN ALL 4 AND ALL PLUGS ARE NEW. DO I JUST NEED TO BUCK UP AND GET A COLOR TUNE. I KNOW I SHOULD HAVE DONE A COMPRESSION TEST FIRST IAM GOING TO DO THAT NOW.

helllp

 

Did you make sure all the air passages are clean. I had a problem like this on my dirt bike, and it was a restricted air passage causing a rich idle mixture. The bike would not idle under 1600 rpms.

 

What year, engine and model bike do you have?

 

Having the ColorTune in your Toolbox won't hurt.
You have a Valuable Tool that will SAVE Time setting-up Bikes right.

The Float Heights are Critical.

Float Heights Illustrated:


You want the Fuel Height HIGHER than the Screw and Below the Solid Base of the Bowl.
If you can get the Floats ALL to the Top of the Lock Washer,...
that's Ideal.

Before you get terribly frustrated ...
CHECK for AIR Leaks all over the Carbs and Manifolds.

 

usually not, out is richer, once you get 2 1/2 out your not going to hear any difference farther out
try a running sync just to get close, then turn the mixture screws in till you just detect a miss, back off 1/4 turn, sync again and try to get them right on, now tweak the mix screws till you like it, recheck the sync and you'll be close
the best way to do the floats is with a clear hose on the float bowl

 

Let's just assume your valves are in spec and you have good compression. It would be nice to check these 2 items.

You ran a wire thru the little brass tube and it's side vent, the hidden jet in the float bowl, and the area where the pilot jet dumps into the butterfly area?

You invert the carb rack at an angle that touches, but does not compress the little spring in the needle, then, the 17.5 measurement is from the thin parting line cast into the float- to the carb body surface.
NOW- since this is such a PITA and not so accurate anyway, the "live gasoline" reading should be taken using the clear tube method.

Only to a point, then they would get lower as you go too rich.
Starting at 2 1/2 you would turn in (CW)until that CYL lays over and dies. You write down, say, 1 1/4 turn. Then you turn it out (CCW) until it picks up, then add a half turn, which is considered alot. You write down that number also, say 2 3/4 turn. Keep written notes.

That's a good starting point for fine tuning

 

Beyond Cleaned Carbs is the realm of Fine Tuning.

You should be in good shape to Fine Tune that Bike.
If the Carbs are Cleaned and not responding to Tuning tweaks; you must rule-out Air Leaks allowing the Air~Fuel Ratio to be inaccurate and the Engine unresponsive to Carb adjustments.

Cylinder Head to Manifold Seal.
Manifold Leaks and Tears.
Hose Clamps loose.
Hose Clamps improperly placed damaging Manifold.
Throttle Shaft Seals.
Sticking Linkage.

You need to be confident that everything is OK and that making small adjustments will have an effect on Mixtures.

 

We recommend that people do NOT use the 17.5mm float "height" spec for Hitachi carbs (and, actually, don't use any of the factory-published float height specs). The proper method of setting the fuel level is via the clear-tube method, as Rick's very nice diagram outlines.

Once you achieve the proper fuel level in one carb, then you can measure that float's "height" and apply it to the remaining three carbs....and then check the fuel level of those carbs, too (and adjust if needed).

More grief can come to you than you can possibly imagine by trying to "shortcut" the fuel level adjustment process via using an ill-defined and possibly incorrect "specified float heights", for a variety of reasons. Yes, it's a pain in the butt to do, but do it once, do it right, and you shouldn't have to re-set them (thankfully) for a long time.........

 

ok sorry its a 1980 maxim 650 and the floats are good i got pleanty gas and i never touched the tabs all air passages are cear. and i do notice a differance when i ajust in after 2 /1/2 turns so thanks for info i did a compression test 1# 150 2#150 3#150 4# at first i think it said 130 but it again and #140 i believe those a good specs. today i got the bike to idle real good just a little miss and iam going to order a color tune to fine toon.
#4 being differnt than the rest i did a a leak and was good what do you think about that one being differant than the rest?

iam almost there just need to get the mixture screws right. it stays right around 1,000 but will fidgit a little like its not perfact. also i did a bench sink
what other sink do i have to do? rick? is that the bottle sink?

 

oh also i will do a propain test tomarrow with 5,000 miles it should be good to go i just want in to purrrrr. like i said i have it at a good idle i just can hear a little miss but i have all screws the same and i notice some exhaust pipes take a little longer to heat up hence not a good clean fire?

oh and thanks for all the hard work you guys do.

 

Vacuum Sync.
YICS Bikes need the YICS Manifold Closed-off to separate the Carbs.

Search: FREE YICS Tool

Once Synced.
ColorTuning or Plug Chopping to get the Mixtures Screws right.

Don't rush it.
You can even do Plug Reads right now, ... just to see where you are at.

 

ok