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Steering head bearing replacement hwo-to advice wanted

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by xjazz, Mar 14, 2010.

  1. xjazz

    xjazz Member

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    Can someone direct me to an article on the XJ site or elsehwere that has detailed info on replacing the head bearings? Any advice on gotchas to look out for, required tools, shortcuts, etc. would be greatly appreciated
     
  2. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    It's frustrating, sometimes, to get the Old Races out. Yammie didn't make the Shelf where the Bearing Race is set with a "Cut-out" to get good purchase on the Seat when you drive it out.

    Use Sealed Roller Bearings to replace the Balls
    Buy the New Bearings from a Bearing Supply Outfit ... NOT Yamaha.

    The Roller Bearings are a Metric STANDARD Size.
    Used on Multiple applications requiring Bearings in Motors and Engines.
    You'll save $50.00 at an Outlet and get Higher Quality Bearings than it had.
     
  3. SecaRob

    SecaRob Member

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    xjazz, how ironic that you are posting this. Just fired up my pc to ask the exact question you did.


    I look forward to the responses.....
     
  4. DaveXJ

    DaveXJ Member

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    I did this last year and bought the roller bearing from Chacal here. Was time consuming but found lots of info using the search. Also Chacal may have a write up for you? What a difference they make! Before i did mine, i could not let go of the bars for more than a couple seconds before the front end started wobbling. Now i can let go of the bars and stretch out if needed with no problems.
     
  5. ZaGhost

    ZaGhost Member

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    I did mine last year, not bad, time consuming, more time taking it apart than the actual replacement.
    Biggest pain is gett the old races out, chances are they are fused in there pretty good......
     
  6. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    once everything's off the triple tree, take off all the nuts on top, the lower part will fall out balls will go everywhere
    reach thru the hole and catch a lip of the outer lower race with a long screwdriver or a steel rod with a square end (no mushroomed end) tap all around the race It should start moving, tap it out
    do the same from the bottom for the top race
    this was my hard part, get the lower inner race off the stem, i had to grind it till it got loose, don't worry if you hit the stem a little
    now fit the new bearings where they go, you might have to use some emery cloth on the neck and the bottom of the stem
    the thing here is to get the bottom bearing in the neck the the first time because it wont have a lip to tap it back out If you get the neck a little to loose use some blue lock-tite, better loose than beating it in
    use the old race to tap the new one in, you'll know when it bottoms, it'll sound different
    put it all back and adjust the bearings when everythings back on
     
  7. SecaRob

    SecaRob Member

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    I just finished replacing the bearings. WOW what a big job! Who's idea was it to run 847 wires to the headlight bucket?
     
  8. ZaGhost

    ZaGhost Member

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    Hehe yeah, I want to smack that guy too.....
     
  9. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Once the get the number of moves it take to build a Bike down to a minumum, ... the Japanese like building them in in a hurry.

    Having all the wires come-up the the Head-light Bucket ... hides the Connectors and has them all in one place to connect.

    Win-win.
     
  10. SecaRob

    SecaRob Member

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    Yep, I bet I spent an hour just getting wiring back in the bucket and the gauges installed propery :(
     
  11. ski84

    ski84 Member

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    One more piece of advice, after you get the lower bearing race off the triple tree, put the triple tree in the freezer over night before seating the lower bearing in it. It will contract just enough to allow you to seat the lower bearing easier.
     
  12. PainterD

    PainterD Active Member

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    If your good with a cutting torch you can cut the race right off without wrecking the shaft. Been doing it for years without a problem. Not for the squeemish. Have to have a steady hand.
     
  13. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    I've only had to deal with a Seized Race on a Triple Tree twice.

    The last time I had to get a race of a Tree Shaft, ... I used a Dremel and a few Cut-Off Wheels.

    I cut the Race on a steep bias until I cut through the Race.
    Then, I hit the Cut with a Chisel.
    Bingo.

    After struggling to get off and get-out races and Seats, ... don't bother with Ball Bearings as replacements.

    Sealed Roller Bearings are much better.

    Mount the New Bearings in the Headset.
    Dress the Triple Shaft.
    Shoe-shine the shaft with 800, 1000, 1500 to remove any oxidation and rust damage.
    Put a nice new finish on the Tree Shaft.

    Smear the Shaft with AntiSeize and Seat it into the New Bearings with a Rubber Mallot.
     
  14. markie

    markie Member

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    My bike has been fitted with taper roller bearings - after wiping away the old grease which was like glue, they are nice and smooth!
     
  15. SecaRob

    SecaRob Member

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    I guess I got lucky? Both races came off with some lite tapping with a hammer. Going back with the new ones was easy as well.

    Did I mention that the headlight & harness was a biotchhh
     
  16. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    Rob, it's a little late now but those wires go a little easier with some heat gun, just don't melt the bucket
     
  17. razz1969

    razz1969 Active Member

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    I know this is an old thread so here it goes. I have a good supply of Timken taper bearings at my disposal. What size bearings go in the head on the xj750, and does any one know the Timken part number by chance, or any other part number and I can cross ref it. thanks
     
  18. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    There should an I.D. Number laser-etched on the Bearing Inner or Race.

    Amazingly, Bearing Supply companies have a guy at the Parts Window who can read the sizes at arms length.

    The Tapered-Roller Bearings needed are common sized.

    (I think they just know.)
     
  19. razz1969

    razz1969 Active Member

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    So what size does the xj750 take?
     
  20. cutlass79500

    cutlass79500 Well-Known Member

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    I just replaced them in my honda with taper bearings. I bought the kit off ebay they were Timkin they came with seals . I had no problems getting tho old races out. I wiped the grease off wedged 2 big screwdrivers wedged them in without hitting the shaft soon as the race started to move it came right off. Most people do not think to do this but it works great. When installing new bearings put the triple tree in the freezer overnight along with the races Put the bearings in the oven 250 degrees for about 20 min. A pvc pipe same size as the bearing start the bearing tap the pvc pipe on the ground a few times the weight of the tree will drive the bearing on. The races are another story make sure they start straight I used a block of wood to get then as far as i could and used a brass punch to get them to seat. Something you need to watch when you buy brgs. Most kits come with 2 washers thin and thick you have to make the proper measurements and use the proper washer if needed otherwise the lower tree will hit the frame neck. If you put the bearing on and need to remove it you will have to replace it you will ruin the old one . A few hints that no one thinks about take pics of the wires and cables before so you can get them in the proper places when putting back together. Also make sure if you use ALL BALLS KIT the proper washer is used not sure about the seca but if they are not properly spaced your headlight ears will have to be shimmed because of the difference in height of the bearings. I have done my share of them i do not pull the bucket the gauges or bars i tie them up to the roof and use lots of towels lay the bars on the tank. I have a drive on lift that makes things much easier
     
  21. aSECAwrencher

    aSECAwrencher Member

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    I had to employ the cutting method for the lower race on my XJ900. I have a little squeak in the handlebars now that I'm just starting to notice after about 100 miles of road use. It might be the harness against the frame, but I'm pretty sure it's the top race.
    Suggestions. I'm thinking about taking off the top nuts and re-torquing the things before I tear it all down and repack the new bearings.
     

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