Oil opinions?

I want to start a topic specifically regarding types and brands of oil used.

I am currently using Yamalube 10w-30 but am suspicious that this oil probably isn't any better than Wal-mart brand oil.

Is it safe to switch to a synthetic if I've been using a fossil oil?
IE: seals and gaskets conditioning.

I plan on changing at least every 2000miles.

What about synthetic blends?

Tell me what you use and what has worked for you.

 

The biggest problem with modern automotive oils today is that they are specifically blended for use in cars with catalytic converters. This means they have to remove the sacrificial elements, such as phosphorus and zinc, that were previously added as part of the anti-wear packages; additives that you need for your bike. I would stick with Yamalube or a conventional 4 cycle motorcycle-specific four stroke oil, or switch to a synthetic blend (depending on how many miles are on your bike). It's sort of an industry standard that changing oil types (i.e. fossil fuel to synth) late in the game (more than say, 20,000 mi.) is not a good ide. I can't vouch for this theory, but it makes sense. I'll expound on this a bit more when I have more time.

 

i'm no xpert,but aren't synthetic oils like SUPER slipery? i have heard some people that have went syn. develope problems with slipping clutches.just a thought. 8O

 

I use, Castrol Syntec 5W-50 and have since my bike had 6000 miles on it.
It's a bit pricy, but my bikes worth it.

The oil is thin enough to pick up and then thickens enough to give good warm lubricating properties.

Is it the best?
For my $ it is.

I've had no clutch problems from using this oil.

 

yet

 

I've lived 25-miles outside of Boston for going-on 25-years. I restored a '79 XS650 Special and ran it hard for 5-years on Castrol 20/50.

I sold the Twin and got a XV700N Virago. Rode that Virago to the nearest star and back on Castrol 20/50.

Found the XJ900 with 16,000 miles on it, leaning up against a Boston dumpster, and gave the kid $150.00 for it. Restored it. Rode it as hard as you can ride a bike, going through a clutch or two, over the years.

It got fresh Castrol 20/50 and oil filters every 25-hundred miles. She sits down in the garage with 62,000 miles on her ... and still likes her Summer Sunday's out at the high-end of the tach. I can't kill it; and The Lord knows I've tried!

Got my "New" XJ750MK, with only 10,000 Original miles on it, handed to me for nothing. The PO let her sit too long and the labor to fix 'er up was huge.
Dragged it home and restored it. She get's new Castrol 20/50 every 2,000 Miles.

I have honked this Max on "Day-trips" of 250, 350 and 400 miles, several times, this season ... and she's happy to get cranked-up to Red line; getting pushed to the edge, when we go-out and play "Jet Pilot and The Multiple Bogies."
With a huge 900 oil cooler added to the Max ... I know she's well protected running one (if not THE) most preferred racing oil every made.

Castrol 20/50
24/7/365

I swear by it and won't use anything else.

 

Right on Rick!!!

 

Ditto on the Castrol 20/50
My cars/trucks get Mobil 1 I drive my Toyota about 30k miles a year.
But I heard the same story about clutch slippage with Synth oils and since i had used Castrol 20/50 in the days before Synth oils I thought I'd try it in the bike. I'm sure the fomula is different from the days when i used it but the 650 seems to like it so i'm sticking with it.

 

Not that I disagree with you guys......truth be told, I've got Castrol 20W50 in the Seca as we speak, and HD 20W50 in the Buell. I was repeating, for "educational purposes", the latest and greatest info I've read about motorcycle oils. Here's the lowdown, as far as what I follow;
1) The NUMBER ONE enemy of any air cooled motor is MOISTURE. Moisture is induced in motor oils via condensation, and is more prevalant due to the varied temperature fluctuations an air cooled motor goes through (by design) compared to the fairly stable operating temperatures seen in liquid-cooled engines. As XJ owners, we all deal with this. Moisture attacks the steel on cam lobes (esp. overhead cams which are not partially immersed in oil) and bearing surfaces, as well as the aluminum alloys used in the cases. Moisture also combines with byproducts of combustion to form sulfuric acid, which further attacks the internals. The key, then, is to remove the moisture and acids from the oil sump by changing the oil. This is the one constant that pro-synth users fail to accept or practice, often downplaying the high cost of synthetics by reasoning; "You can extend the oil change intervals.." Not in my bike! It's better to run Dino Drippings and dump it every 2 months/1000 miles than to run some super friction-free molecule-bonding synthetic and change it once a year. That's my opinion,anyway. Now, if you can afford to dump your expensive synth down the drain at dino dripping intervals, by all means, go for it. (But you won't.)
2) That being said, synthetics offer SUPERIOR molecule bonding properties and much higher resistance to thermal breakdown than petroleum-based motor oils. I can't speak with authority to synth's effect on wet-clutch motorcycles because I don't have any data or personal experience to back it up. I did add Marvel Mystery Oil to my XL125 once and IMMEDIATELY got a bad case of clutch slippage. Not recommended!
3) The "perfect" temperature for oil is around 212 deg. F as it boils off the moisture accumulated in the oil.
4) Oil temp in an air-cooled IL4 can get up to 350 deg. F
5) At a constant 240 deg. F you cut the oil's service life in half
6) Every 12 deg. F above 240F cuts the life in half again.
7) For longer rides, an oil cooler can double or even triple the life of your oil. Make sure you install one with a thermostatic bypass, though, or your oil may never get up to operating temp on shorter hops, which will do more damage than good.

The most important thing to recognize is that there is no substitute for clean oil of the proper weight and designation to cool and lubricate your air-cooled motor. And the only way to achieve this is to change it; often.

 

BTW-facts and figures from previous post are credited to Kip Woodring; Sportster/Buell Engine Hop-Up Guide.