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I'm just about at my wits end with this thing

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by mcrwt644, Mar 28, 2010.

  1. mcrwt644

    mcrwt644 Member

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    1985 xj700 airhead. 11530 mi. Oil, filter, plugs, carbs cleaned/changed and sync'd. Petcock rebuilt, new fuel lines.

    stupid thing won't start unless i hit it with ether and rev it, then it just dies.
    I had it running for about 40 mins last night after I swapped the plugs. The plugs are now white after going from the factory setting (the factory brass mixture screws were still there) of 1.5, 1.5, 1.5 and 3 turns to 2 turns on all 4 carbs.

    WHEN the bike does run it stumbles from idle to about 3500, then takes off. Local shop owner said to check the float level. Dry, they were at 16mm on all but no. 3 which was either 15 or 14. Moved them to 18mm and did a wet test with a test tank...NO change, thing just won't go.

    If you touch the choke, it dies, period, and I mean TOUCH the choke. I'm looking for suggestions. The carbs are clean, no ifs ands or buts, but again, I wouldn't be posting if I didn't need help, so fire away

    One final note, I am in the process of changing the oil again to make sure that before the petcock was redone, there was no gas that any gas leaked in the case...and it was nasty, no material though
     
  2. davstarks

    davstarks Member

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    Bad gas mabye. Or ethynol laced gas. It's a long shot, but simple to rule out.
     
  3. stereomind

    stereomind Active Member

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    What about the enrichment passages in the bowls? I've had to chase mine with a piece of guitar string even after the bowls spent a day at our local bike shop's carb tub...

    Also, make sure your fuel tank is venting properly, and your new fuel lines aren't getting kinked somewhere.
     
  4. mcrwt644

    mcrwt644 Member

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    update
    carbs are off, and completely apart. Everything is out of them. All passages appear clear, altho there were bits of crap here and there. Plugs are absolutely soaked. gas pooled in the bottom of the manifolds.

    she has new gas. tank is vented. a can of carb cleaner later, I can say that the passages are at least clear. I'm hitting them with a compressor tomorrow.

    float bowl height is my concern now. I'm at 18mm dry, thats +2 over stock.
     
  5. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Those Carb Presets that you pulled-out of a book are, ... at best ... a guess.
    What you should do is get a ColorTune reading to know the Mixture is Rich enough to keep the Bike running.

    Experiment until you can get a ColorTune.

    Cut the Point off of a Golf Tee nice and square.
    Add a coat of bright Nail Polish to the stem where you cut-off the end.
    MEASURE ... Using a Machinists Ruler ... 14/100ths of an Inch.
    Make a MARK, using a Razor Blade ... 14/100ths from the end.

    Run the Line precisely around the Tee
    Use the Razor and SCRAP-OFF the Polish from the Line to the End.
    Create a Depth Gauge for the distance of 14/100ths.

    Use the Depth Gauge to Set the Pilot Mixture Screws.
    Raise or Lower the Mix Screws to a Depth of 14/100ths.
    This is an experiment.

    See how she runs with the Pilots set at that height.
     
  6. Tito

    Tito Member

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    The red arrow show points to the small tube that ahs abot three holes along the length of it. Clean it with carb spray. I stick the straw right on it and press as hard as i can, turn my head and spray. If you where goggles you will see fluid sparay out of the tiny holes. sometimes the are facing in different directions but that doesn't matter. then check where this tube goes into the bowl. That passage must alsoo be clear. Once again i stick the straw in there and let h have it.
     

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  7. Tito

    Tito Member

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    I'm not that familer with these carbs specificall but make sure the main jet and piolot jet didn't get swapped
     
  8. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Siphon Tube POWER FLUSH ...

    Take a Carb Cleaner Sprat Tube
    Add a Length of SHRINK WRAP
    Shrink a Short Length of the Wrap to the End of the Tube.

    Slide the Wrap OVER the TUBE until it seats and "Give it Hell"
     
  9. Tito

    Tito Member

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    That little tube is called a siphon tube then?
     
  10. mcrwt644

    mcrwt644 Member

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    Update-carbs are off. completely disassembled. All passages are clear, 19oz of carb cleaner can attest to that. No apparent cloggage. There were a few bits in the bowls and on the needle seat screens. I am running a new inline filter with new fuel line. All bowls have fuel

    Plugs are drenched, absolutely soaked. gas pooled on the intake boots. I thought I was at 2 turns on te fuel mixture, when I was really at 3.

    Dry float height sits at 18mm. Wet height looked close, but can you really measure 1mm below the body? It's not easy. I'm going to blow everything out with the compressor tomorrow and reassemble. I'll set the float heights to 20 mm vs the stock 16mm and see what the wet setting is.

    Just for piece of mind, what is the numbers for the main and pilot jets? Pilots are smaller, no? What about the numbered jets under the vacuum slide?
     
  11. stereomind

    stereomind Active Member

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    Non-X 700's have Hitachi carbs, right?

    The fuel jets (bottom of carb): pilots are smaller number and i.d.. They go towards the from of the carb. Mains are larger, and go in the middle.

    The AIR jets (under the diaphragm): pilots are LARGER number and i.d., and also go towards the front of the carb. Main air jets are smaller and go behind the pilots...
     
  12. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Unless you hook-up a hose and look at the level rise up the hose; how do you REALLY know the Float Levels.

    Fill them babies up and check them with the hose method.
    You might get lucky and not need to do anything.

    Then, again ... one or two or more might be off.
    Mark the one that is best.
    Match the others to it.

    Once you have a BASELINE ... you can dial-in the other ones on that.

    I use Windshield Washer Fluid and just Drain them into a clean tub.
    Totally safe.
    Quick.
    The stuff goes in the car when you're done.
     
  13. mcrwt644

    mcrwt644 Member

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    I've been chatting with desinger mike on this for days now. The needles appear to be corroded and we feel this may be inhibiting them for seating. I'm going to try and polish them carefully and run washer fluid through them from the test tank and see if they seat by hand and if there is any leakage. They are in good shape otherwise. The other thing I may do if that doesn't work is the golf tee trick to 're shape' the needle seat. I think this is where the issue lies. I did take wet readings, they appeared ok, but it is truly hard to tell '1mm below body'. I think the gas is leaking past the float needles...I'll find out soon. There is just far too much gas ahead of the carbs in the manifolds. The jets I had in the correct slots, I was just verifying, thank you. I'm use to mikunis on the x's, not the hitachis. Mikunis appear simpler. I've never had this much issue with a set before. Live and learn huh? I did find 4 rebuild kits (needle, seat and gasket) on flea bay for 56 bucks shipped, so if this doesn't work, or I can't get the needles to seat, I'm going that direction.
     
  14. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    The needles on air-head Hitachi carbs (700's) are rubber tipped, not metal.

    That may be the real problem..........!
     
  15. mcrwt644

    mcrwt644 Member

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    Thanks Len. What I meant by corroded was the sides and what not of the needles are corroded. I'm thinking they are not seating correctly. Hoping to see if I am right or wrong today. Gosh, I hope I'm right, and they are leaking.

    They are rubber tipped and the tips are apparently in good condition
     
  16. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member

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    I thought windshield washer fluid was the wrong density for measuring float heights (off by 25%), and you better FLUSH it all out with carb cleaner...after I tried this, I completely clogged up my carbs and had to clean out all the ww-fluid that had CRYSTALIZED all around the carbs and especially on the slides and fuel inlet screen. There could be differences bewteen brands of ww-fluid too.

    My recommendation, is use gas and only gas to measure the float height.
     
  17. mcrwt644

    mcrwt644 Member

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    I was de corroding the needles, when I looked into the seats, holy cow, there is a lot of corrosion in there! So much so that I could scrape it off with a pick (gently)...so, i put some 00 steel wool down there, made sure it was in there well, and spun it with my fingers, and voila! nice and shiny, and you should've seen the schtuff that came out. The steel wool changed color it was so nasty. I then polished up the hole with a golf tee. I re soaked the seats, then ran steel wool through them again and blew them out. Nice and clean. I remember one float height was lower than the other, and guess what? There was one seat that didn't have corrosion in it...hmmmmm. The needles were not seating and the engine was flooding. Simple as that. And if it isn't that, look for a ball of flame from Winchester VA.
     
  18. mcrwt644

    mcrwt644 Member

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    dry float heights set at factory specs 16mm and they are +/-.5mm. Wet heights look very good. No overflow and all looks like a go. After I get the kids down, I'm putting the carbs on. I'll update in about 1.5 hours
     
  19. TIMEtoRIDE

    TIMEtoRIDE Active Member

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    Yeah, and put out that cigar while you're at it !
    Cool avatar !
     
  20. mcrwt644

    mcrwt644 Member

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    EVERYONE go outside and look towards N. VA, because there is going to be a fireball.

    She won't start sans starter fluid. No. 1 won't fire, and when it runs, it hangs in the rpms. 3 and 4 look to be lean. mixture screws at 2.5. I'm pullng the tires off it and burning it.

    Seriously though, if I can't get it in the next few days, it's being parted out.
     

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