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clutch trouble xj650

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by bryson-83, Apr 12, 2010.

  1. bryson-83

    bryson-83 New Member

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    hi everyone,the clutch is slipping on my 1982 xj650
    its really bad when its cold and takes some time to get speed built up and with very low revs,after about 10 minutes it gets a bit better and i can get up to speed but still with slow revs once in top gear and about 10 miles done it bes ok but if i give it a big fast rev the revs go up and nothing happens....is there a reason why its worse at times and is it a big job to fix? i know the clutch is done but will i sort the problem with replacing the plates just or could it be cable related too im waiting on a clutch kit arriving which i ordered today but it just contains the plates,will i need springs too? sorry for so many questions lol any help greatly appreciated
     
  2. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Don't keep slipping those Clutches on the Drivers.
    You might only need Friction Plates.
    If you keep slipping the Clutches ... you'll burn the Drivers and need a complete Clutch and Drive Plate replacement.

    You need the skill to remove the Clutch Cover and Pressure Plate.
    Take-out all the Clutches and Drivers
    Replace the worn or damaged parts and reassemble.

    Since you deserve a a Great Clutch and the degree of difficulty isn't extreme ...

    Get a Manual
    Get a Clutch Kit -- Complete with Springs and Hardware
    Get someone to help you.

    Make a Sign.
    Post it on the Bulletin Board of a Technical School that teaches Automotive Technical Courses.

    Help Wanted:
    Someone to help me put a New Clutch in my Yamaha
    I have all the Parts
    I have an Illustrated Workshop Manual
    Your Name
    Your Phone Number

    Cross fingers and wait.
     
  3. bryson-83

    bryson-83 New Member

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    thanks,well the plates are in the post and ive got a good man to help me so im half way there just hope there isnt too much damage done
     
  4. day7a1

    day7a1 Member

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    Don't forget the gasket. In my opinion, it's the hardest part!

    It's easier than you might think. Just be easy on the bolts.

    Be sure to change the oil after 250 miles or so.
     
  5. bryson-83

    bryson-83 New Member

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    after the clutch change?
     
  6. day7a1

    day7a1 Member

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    To get to the clutch you will take off the clutch cover. The gasket that keeps the oil in will need to be replaced, unless you like oil leaks. It is likely 30 years old, and probably wont hold up to the clutch cover removal.

    You have to scrape the old gasket material off, and after 30 years that's not an easy task. You can get some gasket remover from NAPA, make sure it's not the kind that is for the "gasket in a tube" removal. I got a spray. Then I sprayed it on, waited 10 min, and took a razor blade to CAREFULLY cut it off. I have heard others use a plastic putty knife, and I would probably do that if I had to do it again. You don't want to damage your surface. Spray. Scrape. Spray. Scrape. Beer. Watch TV. Spray. Scrape.

    Chacal has them:
    Clutch Case Cover Gasketss:


    ec4) OEM CLUTCH COVER GASKETS. A must-replace item anytime you remove the clutch cover (right side of the bike) for periodic cleaning or clutch plate adjustment, repair, or replacement.


    HCP1025 OEM main clutch cover-to-block paper GASKET, for all XJ650, XJ700 non-X, XJ750, and XJ900RK models.
    $ 12.50

    The clutch itself is easy. I seriously think I could do it with my eyes closed. You might need to loosen (not remove) the bolt that holds the footpeg on so you can get to one of the bolts.

    Good Luck! And don't overtighten!
     
  7. day7a1

    day7a1 Member

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    Oh...the oil. Yes. I can't remember where I heard it, but supposedly you should change your oil after a clutch change because the new clutch has high wear in the first 250 miles, and you want to get all that junk out.

    Makes sense to me!
     
  8. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Replacing a Burned-out Headlight Bulb is easy.
    Replacing a set of Clutches and Drivers is not a walk in the Park.

    The MOST important part of doing the Clutch Job is having a Manual to read and show you how to do the job.

    You'll have to release the Clutch Cable and remove the Throw-out Arm. Those thing's need to go back on and get adjusted after you deal with replacing 8 Friction Discs and who-knows how many -or not- Driving Plates.

    If it's your first Clutch and you have your sh1t together, ... you'll be working-on doing the job, ... all afternoon.

    Get ... a ... Manual.
    A Factory Book specific to YOUR Bike, ... alone: Ideal.
    You are going to save enough money doing this job yourself to:
    Get a Factory Manual
    Buy a Barnett Heavy-Duty Clutch Kit w/ Springs & Hardware.
    The New Gasket ... and,
    A decent Torque Wrench ...

    Than you'd spend for Parts & Labor having a Bike Shop do the job for you.

    You get to keep the Book and the Wrench, ...
    for the NEXT Time ...
    When you'll be able to do the job Blindfolded and Stoned!
     
  9. day7a1

    day7a1 Member

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    Yea...I guess everything seems easier after the fact.

    For some reason I thought you said you already had a manual. You didn't. In case you haven't figured it out already, you should get one. Or all of them.

    And Yes....A torque wrench is one of the most valuable tools you can own for mechanic work. Don't hesitate to get one.

    I disagree strongly with Rick on this point: Don't do it stoned. You're likely to leave the spare bolt loose in the clutch box. Seriously.



    :)
     

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