Really weird oil change issue... oil wouldn't drain

I had to crank the motor for the oil to drain. Got it all out this way but this has never happened to me before. Was wondering what that's all about? Usually i just remove the filler cap and drain bolt/filter cover and everything comes out on its own. What is really wierd is after cranking a fresh qt through it and letting it pump out I poured one more quart through and the oil drained perfectly. Weird stuff. Did find a lot of goo at the bottom of the oil pan. I am wondering if this bike really sat for a LOOOOOONG time and oil was left in it for years and gunked it up. When I cranked the oil out I got a good 2 1/2 qts out of it so I was bone dry, I'd immagine. And it took the 2 1/2 quarts back in with no problem. Did a flush treatment before refilling. Hopefully everything is back to normal.

 

well it is possible the sludge clogged the opening and prevented flow. There is not too much fluid force to push through the clog and the engine rotation assisted in increasing force. There is quite a bit of oil in the sump, so the reasoning of "the oil is in the pump valleys' would not apply

 

whatd you use to flush the crankcase

 

Was the filler cap on or off? If on then your CC breather tube might be stopped up.

 

I used seafoam to flush the crank. Well half a bottle and a queart and a half of fresh oil. Didn't run the bike while I did this. Just turned the crank manually and by the starter. Then drained it and cranked the starter and let the oil/seafoam concoction spew from the pump port with the filter and housing off. Got it all drained pretty good. After rinsing with the seafoam and draining it, the oil looked dark. Couldn't even tell it was fresh oil. I have done oil changes every 2000 miles or less since I have owned it. (Different reasons for changing oil earlier than 2000 like leaky petcock, gas in case).
After that I ran one fresh quart through the case, only turning by hand to get it all mixed around and drained that. It cam out clean. So i capped it and filled her up.
I don't know if this technique worked... just made sense to meso don't try this at home. haha.
Oh, and the cap was off, seaguy.

 

you can run seafoam in the crankcase i think it says so on the container. but i found this on a different forum and thought it was an interesting read

Sea Foam Motor Treatment used in Crankcase Oil
All Gasoline and Diesel, Rotary style engines

Sea Foam Motor Treatment is a Blended Petroleum Product, NOT A CHEMICAL and is widely used as an old oil residue cleaner and moisture drier in any oil crankcase.

Sea Foam Motor Treatment is most commonly used as a pre service, old oil residue re-liquefier / cleaner and moisture drier, and is also used as an after service additive. Sea Foam Motor Treatment does NOT add significantly to oil volume, so removing oil is NOT required for use, when used according to printed directions on the product container.

1. As a PRE SERVICE CLEANER for old oil residue, (sticky rings or valve train noise), pour 1 ½ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of crankcase oil capacity including filter. (Diesels use 1 pint Sea Foam to 4 gallons of oil, please.) Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 100 miles, and then do your oil change service (LOF). This is the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. Great for Turbocharged & Supercharged applications where hot oils deteriorate so quickly due to heat, and leaves those residues that NEED CLEANING. (LOF = Lube oil & Filter service = OIL CHANGE).

2. As an AFTER SERVICE ADDITIVE into fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or oil (used condition) that is NOT ready to be changed (by mileage), put 1 ½ ounces Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the crankcase per quart of capacity as described above, then SELF SET a program to MONITOR your oil for level, color and clarity on a mileage, timed, or event basis (like every time you add fuel, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. (LOF) When the oil gets dirty, CHANGE IT!

Sea Foam Motor Treatment will safely and slowly re liquefy old oil residue, This will make your oil need changing BEFORE your normal scheduled LOF service. Only your monitoring of the oil for color and clarity can tell when it is time to do LOF - oil change service, or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.

Synthetic oils, both blends and 100%, were engineered and are manufactured to be 100% compatible with petroleum based oils, all brands, and vice/versa. Without compatibility, oil manufacturers and engineers would be liable for the results of mixing non-compatible lubricants.

Check your oil; monitor its level, color & clarity to determine need for LOF service!
Change your oil when it gets dirty!

Technical Services Department May 2008 DD
Sea Foam Sales Company

Attachment 2:

Sea Foam Uses in Fuels

Sea Foam Motor Treatment #’s SF-16 (16 ounce), SF-128 (gallon container) and
SF-55 (a 55 gallon drum) is used as a fuel additive in Gasoline, Ethanol Blends, Gas/oil mixes & ALL Diesel fuels. This includes all brands and qualities of available fuels.

When added to these fuels, Sea Foam Motor Treatment was specifically designed to Safely do five (5) simple tasks for you. They are:

1. Sea Foam Motor Treatment is a 100% blended petroleum product. That means Sea Foam is OIL, so adding Sea Foam to ANY fuel, adds lubricity to Fuel systems, Induction systems (Including Drawn through Supercharged applications), upper cylinders, fuel pumps, and related fuel system & Exhaust (Turbocharged) components.
All fuels lack “Protecting” lubrication, Advantage: “Sea Foam”.

2. Sea Foam Motor Treatment contains an oil component that dries fuel system moisture. Moisture breaks down into its basic components of hydrogen and oxygen when Sea Foam Motor Treatment is added to any of the above listed fuels, allowing Sea Foam Motor Treatment to help eliminate problems caused by moisture, like diesel fuel gelling and poor run .Advantage: “Sea Foam”.

3. Sea Foam Motor Treatment contains an oil based high detergent fuel residue cleaner. Using Sea Foam Motor Treatment in your fuel system makes that old fuel residue safely back into liquid. Moisture becomes a “non issue” and allows contaminants to be filtered, as engineered by the manufacturer.
Advantage: “Sea Foam”.

4. Sea Foam Motor Treatments exclusive formula is blended specifically to clean carbon out of the engine as the engine is run. This is accomplished by our cleaning oil formula eliminating old sticky oil residue that holds carbon and allowing that carbon to flow out of the engine dust particle by dust particle. Advantage: “Sea Foam”.

5. Sea Foam Motor Treatment adds volatility to fuel and slows down the rate at which that fuel looses its ability to properly burn. When added to fuel and the fuel is in properly sealed containers or fuel systems, per printed container instructions, Sea Foam Motor Treatment is a fuel stabilizer for up to 2 years. Always run the engine for a long enough period of time to assure the entire system is protected.
Advantage: “Sea Foam”.

Technical Services Department
Sea Foam Sales Company

Updated May, 2008 DD

 

Sea foam also is a cure for the common cold, arthritis, mumps, constipation,
seasonal affective disorder, erectile dysfunction, lazy-eye, hairy palms,
gout, acne, and stretch marks.

Warning use of this product may cause:

Dry eye, watery eye, a constant dripping nose, hemorrhoids, a cold, mumps, constipation, seasonal affective disorder, erectile dysfunction, lazy-eye, hairy palms, gout,acne,stretch marks and worst of all OILY GREASY STOOLS.

Enjoy! :lol:

Rob

 

I still won't put it in my crankcase.

The bike was HOT when you tried to do the oil change, right?

 

it works great for most crankcase applications. Frees up stuck hydraulic lifters for example but what you DON'T put it in is your wet clutch. Which of course for us are the same thing so unless you want to spend a bunch more clean oil flushing the Seafoam out then keep it limited to use as a fuel stabilizer, carb cleaner, shot after dinner for arthritis, topical application to regrow hair and so on.

I put a splash or three in the crankcase about a hundred miles prior to oil changes on which I plan to also change the filter. Take it easy on the throttle leaving stoplights. Just my own dogma in the church of Seafoam. Your results may vary.

Frankly it's a 7 or 8 out of 10 for a WIDE variety of uses but for each purpose there is SOMETHING out there that does a better job. Whether it's the product for you depends on how much shelving your garage has and your budget. I live in an apartment so it's one of the few bottles that makes my spartan space budget.

 

Ya it was hot when i did the change, Fitz. And i like the take vintage rice had on it. haha. Well there is a noticeable difference (not just psycho-sematic) in shifting and clutching. I never even considered what rinsing the clutches might do and had I thought about that i would have came here first.
But My shifting is a lot smoother and more consistant and the clutch is grabbing better.... way better. I didn't change the oil type. I have ran Valvoline 4 stroke 20-50 (or 10-40 when it's colder) in the case for the past 3 or 4 oil changes. It's made for motorcycles with wet clutches and so far has been the best thing I have put in there.
But as an update on my oil change experience... the clutch is grabbing way more solidly. At first i thought it might be dry spots on the plates causing them to grab too much and wrecking the friction plates, if that is possible, because my friction zone has changed. But Ihave put 50 or so miles on this oil change and everything seems to have settled nicely as far as my transmission and clutch go.
The clutch grabs harder and more consistantly. It is actually causing me to have to get readjusted to the throttle and clutch.
I am actually considering another oil change though just in case there is anything left in there I might not want spinning around in my engine.

 

Just a quick question. You said you removed the drain bolt/filter housing. There is a drain plug directly below the filter housing tucked up where it's hard to see. Did you take out this drain plug?

 

Yeah, I first take off the filler cap then the drain plug then the filter housing. Oh, by the way... the spin-on oil adapter is probably anyone's best bet if you are going to go with a 4 into 1 exhaust. The housing doesn't fit between the headers on the mac like the company advertised it would.
But anyway... yeah, I had the drain plug off. After pumping the oil out and doing my flush it came out of the drain perfectly. Changed the oil again this morning (couldn't stop worrying about it) and everything was perfect. Think it was long overdue for a good flush.
If none of you have ever seen inside a motor after it has sat for a looong time, oil will settle into a paste. All of the impurities, additives, and the heavier things will settle at the lowest points. If you look under the valve cover of an old beater car, you'll be able to see it clear as day. That same stuff was in my motor (this is my assumption) and some how broke loose before or during the oil change. It blocked the drain and blocked it good enough to keep the oil in. Not a drop was coming out. And a hot engine won't reliquify or soften this stuff up. It will burn before it liquifies. And instead of mixing with fresh oil, it'll clump up in the oil and sorta smoosh around. I poured the oil from the initial oil change into my drum and there were chunks of this goop in there. Under that was a thinner muddy settlement.
If you have a bike with low miles but is 20 or 30 years old, you have a bike that has most likely survived sitting for long periods of time. And, unless it was stored properly and maintained properly, you probably have some of this goo hanging on to the inside of your engine like algae in a swamp.